Code 95 Help

May 9, 2011
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my car is a 1988 mustang, that has smog pump eliminated, egr is gone with the correct plug for the egr connector. the cars mods at this time are only headers, off road h pipe, and mufflers.
i did a koeo test today and the code that worrys me is 95.
in my book states fuel pump secondary circuit fault. i this this is causing my problem listed below.

ok i have this problem when my car gets low on fuel an i floor it the car will run lean and bog really quick and then it will come out of it. i believe this has something to do with code 95.
how do i fix this problem?


i have a code 29 in my cm also.
this code states insticient input from the vehicle speed sensor(vss)

other codes i have related to smog that im not to worried about.
81
82
85
84
 
Code 95 Key On, Engine not Running - the following test path is for 86-90 model Mustangs.

The 95 code is because at one time or another, the fuel pump relay hiccupped and didn't provide power the pump when the computer told it to run. Sometimes this is a one time thing, other times it is a no run or runs poorly condition.

fuel-pump-wiring-89-90-5-0-mustang-jpg.55493


Using the diagram, check the red/black wire from the fuel pump relay: you should see 12 volts or so. If not, check the inertia switch: on a hatch it is on the driver’s side by the taillight. Look for a black rubber plug that pops out: if you don't find it, then loosen up the plastic trim. Check for voltage on both sides of the switch. If there is voltage on both sides, then check the Pink/black wire on the fuel pump relay: it is the power feed to the fuel pump. No voltage there, check the Orange/Lt blue wire, it is the power feed to the fuel pump relay & has a fuse link in it. If there is good voltage there & at the Pink/black wire, swap the relay.

Some Mass Air conversions neglect to run the extra fuel pump wire, and they always have a 95 code. See http://www.stangnet.com/tech/maf/massairconversion.html for more information on the Mass Air wiring conversion.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif[/img]
 
i do have a mass air conv car, im sure the wire is not run to the relay under the seat to get ride of this code. what do you think would cause my problem.
ok i have this problem when my car gets low on fuel an i floor it the car will run lean and bog really quick and then it will come out of it. i believe this has something to do with code 95.
how do i fix this problem?
 
If you want me to tell you to go buy some $20 part to fix your problem, it isn going to happen.
You have two known issues due to a less than perfect Mass Air conversion. Fix the codes first and then chase rabbits. The link I posted tells you what you have to do to fix them, so go do it.

http://www.stangnet.com/tech/maf/massairconversion.html

Sir Joshua Reynolds' famous quotation: "There is no expedient to which a man will not resort to avoid the real labor of thinking."

Good troubleshooting takes time. Everyone seems to be looking for the magic tip that says replace this $13 part and your problems are cured. You don't have to think, dig or diagnose, just buy the part and install it. Unfortunately, it doesn’t work that way 99% of the time.
Thinking is hard work and educated thinking requires much more effort than simple parts swapping. The complexity and age of these 5.0 Mustangs works against that, as well as the number of hands that have “modified” the original design. Sometimes that modification is well done with good workmanship and other times it is mechanical road kill. It is very easy to become the victim of the previous owner’s efforts.

I spend a great deal of time trying to communicate the methodology of structured troubleshooting principles. For those who haven’t been beaten with this stick before, here they are again:

1.) Understand the system. That involves reading some books to get an overall picture of how it works. For 5.0 Mustangs, that list starts with the Chilton shop manual and the Probst book, Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by Charles
Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3. It's about $30-$40 from Borders.com, see
http://www.amazon.com. Select books and then select search. Use the ISBN number (without dashes or spaces) to do a search. Use the ISBN number and your local library can get you a loaner copy for free for 2 weeks or so.
For free automotive electrical training, see http://www.autoshop101.com/ . I have personally reviewed the material and it is very good.
Another resource is the following website by Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring: http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine. Study the diagrams and tech articles. There is an amazing amount of good stuff in one place for FREE.

2.) Isolate the problem. You need to be able to break the system down into functional blocks or subsystems. Once you know what subsystem has failed, it is much easier to troubleshoot. Group problem symptoms according to what system controls them. Don’t
look for a fix for ignition problems by adjusting the fuel pressure. Have an organized, step by step, approach to work your way through a subsystem before you quit and go off wildly chasing rabbits. You have three tools to use in your efforts:[ : measure, observe and think!. Use these three tools to narrow down the list of possible failure points into a small, easily managed list of items.

3.) Install the fix. Now that you have a short list of suspected villains, plan your repair efforts so that you do the easy things first. If an item from the easy list didn’t fix your problem, then look at the high failure rate items. Spend some time here on Stangnet and you’ll get an idea of what the most commonly replaced parts are, things like TFI modules, ignition switches and fuel pumps.

If you make a change and it doesn’t relieve the problem symptoms, put it back the way it was. I have a stack of parts from where I swapped a part and it didn’t fix the problem. I put the old part back on the car and the new part went on the shelf. Someday I will either
use them or trade them for something else.
 
i do have a mass air conv car, im sure the wire is not run to the relay under the seat to get ride of this code. what do you think would cause my problem.
ok i have this problem when my car gets low on fuel an i floor it the car will run lean and bog really quick and then it will come out of it. i believe this has something to do with code 95.
how do i fix this problem?

Code 95 is just a "report" code. In other words it tells the computer the pump relay is working, or not. If the relay wasn't working, the car wouldn't run...period.

What happens is that in Mass air conversions on 86-88 cars, you need to do 2 things beyond wiring up the MAF. One is to run a wire from EEC to the pump relay under the seat. This wire tells the EEC that the pump is working and will eliminate the code

The other thing to do is to run two wires under the car and tap into the VSS on the trans. This one is pretty important as it tells the computer when the car is coming to a stop. Common issues from doing this may be stalling at a stop light.

So it sounds to me like you have 3 wires to run here to fix those codes. Keep in mind, on non-cruise control 87-88 mustangs...there is no VSS sensor. So that means you'll need to buy a VSS and a speedo cable for a VSS car as well. The plug for the VSS is present. You don't need to tap into it under the car, but can find the wiring in the driver's kick panel.


As to your stalling issue...this could be EGR related. You really don't have a reason to bypass the EGR. It's not smog related and doesn't affect performance or benefit you any way. It's a fuel saving measure, so deleting it means your fuel ecomomy will suffer slightly and not real benefit. When you install the resistor plugs, you tell the EEC that EGR is working, but that's not true. So it leans out the mixture at part throttle and you do get a lean condition. It's better to leave the connector off and let the car generate a CEL and code 31. It will then turn off the EGR function in the computer. Or you could just hook it up and get 1-2MPG back during cruising.