code repair help

sweet88gt

Member
Jun 25, 2005
334
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16
Venice FL
Pulled codes today and of course the thing has problems right out of the gate.
KOEO
Code 67- I had the damn car in gear when testing OK
Code 81- Idle air solenoid- First time starting always dies, and car misses under load. Ok I troubleshoot that and Im ok with that one too
Code 82- Air injection solenoid- The smog pump and all of the vac and solenoids are removed and gone with the wind. My 1st question is does this affect the operation of the engine as far as running?? My problems are the missing and hesitation at part throttle.
Code 85- Canister purge circuit failure- Again gone with the wind. Would this cause the miss also??
I searched this forum and found alot of unanswered questions. I have the fuel injection book by Charles O. Probst and it is helpful but doesnt cover the part of the puzzle when these items are removed,ie smog equipment. Please help so I can get this straightened out.
 
Did you look up each code's respective reply from Jrichker? You will have a hard time beating his great write-ups.

Good luck.
 
In the search of old threads he provided the basis for troubleshooting the item but not when items were deleted. Unless I missed the answers I went thru alot of old posts. Of course the easy way would be to return the items to factory specs but thats not going to happen unless there is overwhelming evidence that points to the problem. Do the codes 82 and 85 affect my current problem of missing under part throttle??
 
AFAIK, the smog codes should not affect your car.

And the EVAP code should not either. You dont have the purge solenoid adding a hair of vapor into the intake at cruise, but other than that, it should not matter. And not on a cold motor at all.

Do you still have the EGR hooked up? I assume so since there is no code (unless the EVP was tricked).

Good luck.
 
I firmly stand behind Mr. Probst's sentiments. EGR is only used at cruise so it does not affect WOT performance, as you know. Good call keeping it. :nice:

But if the EGR valve is not working right and not shutting down once you get back on the pedal, that could cause lackluster performance and perhaps a miss. The EGR needs to see ECT temps of ~130*F before it even should become active (that is my recollection - check the Probst manual, etc for confirmation on that).

Good luck and bump.
 
Still concerned about the smog and purge canister codes. Will they affect driveability?? Im about to start troubleshooting the idle air code now. Thanks
I also want to double check something-code 81=Secondary Air Injection Diverter solenoid failure is this correct?? That now that I think of it is the smog equipment also. The original codes were 67,81,82, and 85. Am I correct????
 
sweet88gt said:
Still concerned about the smog and purge canister codes. Will they affect driveability?? Im about to start troubleshooting the idle air code now. Thanks
I also want to double check something-code 81=Secondary Air Injection Diverter solenoid failure is this correct?? That now that I think of it is the smog equipment also. The original codes were 67,81,82, and 85. Am I correct????

Code 67 - clutch not depressed (5 speed) or car not in neutral or park (auto) or A/C in On position when codes where dumped. Possible neutral safety switch or wiring problem. This code may prevent you from running the Key On Engine On tests. You can generally ignore this code, since it has no effect on engine performance.


Code 81 – Secondary Air Injection Diverter Solenoid failure AM2. The solenoid valve located on the back side of the passenger side wheel well is not functional. Possible bad wiring, bad connections, missing or defective solenoid valve. Check the solenoid valve for +12 volts at the Red wire and look for the Lt Green/Black wire to switch from +12 volts to 1 volt or less. The computer controls the valve by providing a ground path on the LT Green/Black wire for the solenoid valve.

See http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/t...ng5.0Vacuum.gif for help on the vacuum line plumbing.

Code 82 – Secondary Air Injection Diverter Solenoid failure AM1. The dump valve air diverter valve (front vacuum operated valve) isn’t working on the Thermactor Air System (smog pump). Look for broken or missing vacuum lines on the solenoid valve to the diverter valve Check the solenoid valve for +12 volts at the Red wire and look for the Red/White wire to switch from +12 volts to 1 volt or less. The computer controls the valve by providing a ground path on the Red/White wire for the solenoid valve

Code 85 - CANP solenoid - The Carbon Canister solenoid is inoperative. Check vacuum lines for leaks and cracks. Check electrical wiring for loose connections, damaged wiring and insulation. Check solenoid valve operation by grounding the gray/yellow wire to the solenoid and blowing through it.
The computer provides the ground for the solenoid. The red wire to the solenoid is always energized any time the ignition switch is in the run position.
 
I know why the codes are present all of the affected items have been removed. My major question is do these specific codes cause the computer to go into deafault mode and cause driveability problems like what I am dealing with?? Missing under part throttle and minor idle issues. The missing is the biggest complaint. All ignition has been replaced or checked. Smog and fuel purge canister has been long gone and with the stock equipment had no issues. Did a H/C/I swap and have this slight but noticable miss under cruise at any speed other than WOT. The car idles fair and runs good at WOT. Do these codes need to be fixed in order to contuine with dumping the codes with KOER??
 
Ok fixed the code 67
Ran KOER test and came up with these:
code 12-cannot control rpm during self test high rpm. Ok that seems easy to fix by adjusting idle and resetting TPS.
code 44-Secondary air injection system inoperative right side
code 94-Secondary air injection system inoperative left side
Again all codes are from items removed and no longer present. Do these specific codes affect driveability?? Any input would be helpful.Do I need to bite the bullet and look into getting an tune of somesort to remove or control these items thru the ECU. My second thought was the open air filter with the C+l mass air causing the problem?? I rigged a metal baffle to prevent air from the fan entering the filter but did not fix the problem. I have also tried clocking the meter for no help there. Any suggestions on where to look next??
 
The code 44/94 probably won't hurt anything as long as you are running a catless H pipe. They certainly shouldn't cause the computer to go into limp mode.
 
Ok, i thought the idle air was a problem and this is what I have. The idle air solenoid checks out within range of the ohm test. The VPWR circuit to the solenoid has 11.9 volts. With the troubleshooting guide by Charles Probst this is a faulty circuit wiring issue. How the hell does this happen and how to start to fix it??? :Damnit:
 
Just for reference I noticed that the VPWR wiring from the ECU main harness is number 37 + 57 which directly tie into the EGR, Canister purge, and both air diveter solenoids. It is such a fluke that this wire is the same wiring to all of the codes that I have presently been blessd with. Any thoughts???
 
Alright, I read the items that pertain to my problem with the "hot when car is in run mode" wire. In your write up it is supposed to have 12 Volts when car is in run mode correct.
In the book that is helping me troubleshoot these problems the diagnosis for faulty wiring says connect DMM between VPWR wire and between battery terminal ground KOEO 10.5 volts or greater is a faulty wiring circuit.
This is the same wire from the ECU harness that supplies power to the idle air solenoid,egr vac reg,canister purge air diverter #1 and #2, WAC relay, mass air sensor , fuel pump relay, and EEC relay. Is it a chance item that all of my codes pertain to items with this wire or just that I am drawing at straws??
I understand I should have contunity between pin 21 and 37 or 57 because the idle air is a solenoid that is only open during duty cycle. I have ohmed the soleniod and it checks out thru spec. Another indication of faulty wiring to the solenoid is as soon as you start the car on cold start it ALWAYS stalls. It ALWAYS starts on the second try. Any ideas how to fix the wiring. I was wondering how to bypass the VPWR wire straight from the ECU main harness directly to say the idle air to double check this theory. Any thoughts??
 
Most of you codes are related to the Thermatcor Air System or "smog pump".
Codes 44, 94, 81, & 82 are all connected to the smog pump system.
I haven't heard of any idle problems related to these codes.

The red wire that supplies the +12 volts to the IAC also supplies the injectors.
It is routed through the 10 pin connectors.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) &
Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-90 wiring

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss and Stang&2birds.

88-91eecPinout.gif


From my Sticky...

Dirty 10 pin wiring connectors or damaged wiring going to/from the 10 pin salt &
pepper shaker wiring connectors.
See http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...PS_IAB_Pic.jpg for the 10
pin connector locations. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/images/harness02.gif
for the wiring inside the 10 pin connectors. Clean the 10 pin connectors with
electronic parts cleaner or non-inflammable brake parts cleaner (same stuff in a
bigger can and cheaper too).

The stalling on cold start and the code 12 are an indication of a faulty IAC.
If you don't find anything in the electrical department after througly checking
everything (that includes the computer's power ground), replace it.

The part throttle miss - does it occur when you are in cruse mode or while accelerating?
 

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The part throttle miss only occurs at cruise. WOT is fine and idle is fine(as far as a miss). I have to get into the wiring and rule out the idle air circuit. Ill get into that this weekend. 10 pin connectors have been checked and will go over them again. Also I have been checking for vac leaks again cant find any and with the e303 cam pulls 11in. I was also intrested in info on cylinder balance test?? I ran compression test awhile back and they are within mech spec but there are a few that are lower than I would like. Would a cylinder that is close to being out of spec cause my type of problems??