And I dont trust the ECM numbers on the case either. Ive seen ECM's from smaller company's that just reused an old case from whatever.
Still think its an ECM from a 6 cylinder though. I could be wrong. Either way Id find another one. May as well get one thats Mass Air and do the Conversion on your harness.
Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.
The V8 computers will post a 4 when the engine is running and computer is jumpered into diagnostic mode. If you are looking to post an 8, it will never happen. A 6 cylinder computer would post a 3 under the same circumstance.
Ok i got a new computer coming but i noticed today that the car runs perfect when it is still cold. It is still idling high but for about 2 min it is a beast, then it just goes back to normal 4banger mode.
I bought a new IAC today put it on and it did nothing for the high idle / surging. But i did notice that when you start it up and take off it runs perfect, but after a few seconds you will feel the car stumble and it looses all power. This makes it realy weird, you can turn the car off for a few seconds then start it back up and it is a beast for a few seconds then it looses power again. I am starting to think it is a loose connection b/c if i kill it start it back up rev it and dump the clutch it will start to spin then die for about a 1/4 of a sec then come back, or when you do a hard 1-2 shift it will cut out and after it cuts out it looses power.
Check the 10 pin connectors behind the Intake. Take them loose, clean them with some contact cleaner, try very carefully to tighten the PINs up in the connector for a good connection.
87 will work. As long as its setup for your type of vehicle(Auto or Manual)
You may also wanna open the ECM up and check the 3 blue electrolytic capacitors on the board. If they are leaking on the board, it will cause all sorts of problems.
Ok new computer is in car and it is ALOT better on power but i got some new codes. 53 and 63, bolth of those #'s are pointing at the TPS. The car will not idle when it is cold and is surging VERY bad and i have a high idle.
I checked the TPS voltage and i got
1.07 at idle
4.50 at WOT
4.98 Total
Shouldn't my WOT voltage be at 4.98?
If i pull the plug on the new IAC it only drops the rpms about 150. If i pull the plug on the TPS it still surges its just more slugish,and i pulled the vac. to the egr and that did nothing (there is no vac. to it by the way).
Code 13 Key on Engine running - Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high)
If your idle is above 725 RPM, the computer will set this code. Normal idle speed is 650-725 RPM. Higher than that may mean that you have a vacuum leak or someone has mechanically set the idle speed by use of the idle speed screw. This effectively disables to computer’s ability to control idle speed.
Possible vacuum leak, that would account for the 91 code and the high idle.
12.25 volts @ red wire
.02 w/lt blue
.10 om's across prongs on IAC
The w/ltb wire has a problem, on the surging idle checklist is says i should have " less than 12v but more than .5" and if less than that there is a short.
This was with the engine off, it does not say to have the engine running.
Jr i just put a new upper intake gasket and new vac hoses, but i know that doesn't rule out a vac. leak. Also the idle screw is all the way in but it has been like that sence i got the car and i didnt want to just drop the idle that way and just be band aid fixing it. Is it not normal for the screw to be all the way in?
I will change the lower intake gaskets this weekend and see what happens.