Coilovers are they worth it ?

[laserv6]

I was wondering if any of you have had any experience with coil over conversions on a sn 95 . is it worth the money over just having eibach sportline setup ? i have been researching them and they look like a good setup front and year just looking for some feedback thanks again:Track:

 

[lightblade]

it depends on who you ask, for me yes, better ride, went with my other front suspension mods very well, and weighs less. .02 cents

 

[hotmustang331]

Hmm, mine rides about as good as stock on te highway...but any little sudden bump such as bridges or small potholes, and the dash shakes lol. It hits fairly hard.
Im not sure how much they are compared to regular springs, but if I were you I would probably just go lowering springs. Now if you were doing a tubular K then sure(like i did). Its really not for everyone, but if I had to do it all over again, I would. JMO though since I did everything...and I love my ride height .

 

[bdcardinal]

yes it is.

 

[tomustang]

as long as you get a reputable kit

 

[DTMach1]

I think it all depends on what you're going for...

If you're roadracing alot, its the perfect set-up because you can swap out springs with ease, the problem is setting up your corner weights everytime you change the springs out...and of course alginging it properly.

If you're drag racing a lot, then its also great, you figure out what spring rate you need (I dunno 175lbs springs for a GT?), you set everything up and leave it once you've got the car driving straight there's not much else to do...it's awesome because all that weight your drop from the front end, equals better weight xfer to the rear.

However, if you're driving the car everyday, and see the drag strip, or roadcourse maybe 3 times a year, then I think its a bad choice...simply because Tubular K-member and A-arms are noisy...plain and simply more road harshness and vibrations will be felt in the cabin...it may become a bit unbearable and you may end up regretting it in the end.

I made the descision to go with a tubular K-member because I drag race the car from april to October...but I also drive the car everyday...so I'm trading off the road-noise and harshness for 1/4 mile performance...its a descision not made lightly...mostly because of the pricetag involved.

 

[tomustang]

However, if you're driving the car everyday, and see the drag strip, or roadcourse maybe 3 times a year, then I think its a bad choice...simply because Tubular K-member and A-arms are noisy...plain and simply more road harshness and vibrations will be felt in the cabin...it may become a bit unbearable and you may end up regretting it in the end.

there's kits out there that don't require aftermarket K Members/A Arms

 

[wms004]

The MM Front kit has been great to me. Do consider the company you purchase from, and consider the spring rates you choose front and back. The key in choosing spring rates for corner carving is to create neutrality in the steering wheel. Choosing too stiff of a rating in front or back can throw off that desired steering feel.

Wade

 

[DTMach1]

there's kits out there that don't require aftermarket K Members/A Arms

I guess you're right...but I just assume...front coil-overs...tubed K/a-arm

You can also get an AJE tubular K-member and A-arm set-up with spring perches so you can use stock springs and struts

 

[DTMach1]

The MM Front kit has been great to me. Do consider the company you purchase from, and consider the spring rates you choose front and back. The key in choosing spring rates for corner carving is to create neutrality in the steering wheel. Choosing too stiff of a rating in front or back can throw off that desired steering feel.

Wade

yup a whole lot more to consider when you're doing all four corners....eyyy eeeesh!!!

 

[hotmustang331]

I have the 175LB springs with the tokoco 5 way drag shocks on setting 3, pretty nice. Now to get almost ANY shock to fit and work with the coilovers, you WILL have to do alot of careful grinding on the perch thats on the shock, because the coilover sleeve will not go over it. just be sure not to hit the smooth metal shaft with anything, so keep it covered when your grinding. See, alot of this stuff isnt just a direct boltin. Oh and if you go coilovers, all the weight is on the fenderwell shock towers, so you MUST either buy steeda aluminum 4 bolt CC plates (me) or the MM steel 4 bolt CC plates.

 

[BennyBlown2v]

I have Maximum Motorsports coilovers on Bilsteins with 350lb springs in the front and 575lb in the rear with a Cobra IRS. The ride quality is amazing (even when I was running the solid axle with just the coilovers in the front) over my Eibach Pro-Kit and even the stock springs. The adjustability in ride height is also really nice, and the increase in steering feel and response with the coilovers (even with just cobra control arms and stock K-member, and no strut tower brace or anything) is amazing, it's like a completely different car. Oh, and never EVER having to use a F'in spring compressor EVER again when working on the suspension....priceless.

 

[KS00GT]

I have Maximum Motorsports coilovers on Bilsteins with 350lb springs in the front and 575lb in the rear with a Cobra IRS. The ride quality is amazing (even when I was running the solid axle with just the coilovers in the front) over my Eibach Pro-Kit and even the stock springs. The adjustability in ride height is also really nice, and the increase in steering feel and response with the coilovers (even with just cobra control arms and stock K-member, and no strut tower brace or anything) is amazing, it's like a completely different car. Oh, and never EVER having to use a F'in spring compressor EVER again when working on the suspension....priceless.

Is there any added noise from the coil-overs with your set up (BennyDaBall)?

 

[BennyBlown2v]

Nope. And I have aluminum rack bushings and poly bushings in everything up front too. Sway bar mounts (on the car) did creak, but i just lubed em....totally un-coilover related info sry haha