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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Coming Back To Life

  • Thread starter Thread starter hellcat120
  • Start date Start date May 7, 2017
H

hellcat120

New Member
Oct 16, 2003
7
0
1
May 7, 2017
#1
  • May 7, 2017
  • #1
I just bought back my favorite mustang, sold it 12 years ago and it's been parked for 6 years now. I am putting together a plan for starting the car, I have never started one after it sat so long. If anyone has hands on experience with this type of situation I would greatly appreciate you advice or opinions..the car is a 00 GT 5 speed.
Thanks
 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician
Aug 14, 2009
5,892
514
204
Houston Texas
May 7, 2017
#2
  • May 7, 2017
  • #2
I have done this same thing for my 2000 GT project car.

Step one. Drain the gas tank. It's quite possible to disconnect the fuel filter and power the fuel pump directly using a battery charger. There's a round connector near the rear of the gas tank. The wire colors are RD/BK and BN/PK. Be careful not to short out any other pins. If you hear the fuel pump run but nothing comes out then reverse the wires.

When I had to do this I disposed of the nasty gas by putting a gallon or so into all of my other cars and my neighbor's cars. I figured a small amount of sale gas mixed in with good gas won't hurt. Otherwise you would have to pay to have the gas disposed of.

Strongly consider sending the Fuel injectors out for cleaning and flow testing. I have had good results using InjectorRX.com. Once cleaned and tested they are as good as new. Much cheaper than new.

Change the oil.

Make sure the battery is fully charged. Battery terminals clean and tight.

When starting for the first time, pull the fuel pump fuse or disconnect the fuel pump connector so that it won't start. Crank the motor until oil is seen down the oil filler neck.

If you are super anal then pull all of the spark plugs and put a small amount of oil down the spark plugs holes. Crank the motor with the spark plugs out.

Re-enable the fuel pump. Turn the key on/pause/off several times WITHOUT cranking. Listen for the fuel pump to run each time. This is needed to re-pressurize the fuel system.

Cross fingers.

Start car.

Have beer (or begin trouble shooting).

1996+ Crank with no start check list
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/4-6l-tech/336452-1997-mustang-wont-ignite.html#2984838
 
Last edited: May 7, 2017
Reactions: Neuron

Saberstang

Active Member
May 2, 2017
130
24
28
Atlanta, GA
May 7, 2017
#3
  • May 7, 2017
  • #3
hellcat120 said:
I just bought back my favorite mustang, sold it 12 years ago and it's been parked for 6 years now. I am putting together a plan for starting the car, I have never started one after it sat so long. If anyone has hands on experience with this type of situation I would greatly appreciate you advice or opinions..the car is a 00 GT 5 speed.
Thanks
Click to expand...
After any vehicle sat for that long without being operated first order of business would be do all the maintenance before anything else like mods are done. I would inspect/check the car for any fluid leaks and because when a vehicle is not operated for that long of time seals and gaskets can dry rot and/or leak because they are not being properly lubricanted regularly like they should. When any vehicle is not operated for a long period of time it does more harm than good from what I have seen. I would change the motor oil/ oil filter,transmission fluid,differential fluid,change the spark plugs with new Motorcraft spark plugs. Change the PVC valve as it could be clogged. Change the fuel filter as it could be clogged also and have bad fuel in it. If there is any fuel left inside your gasoline tank it probably is bad. I would consider dropping the gasoline tank and removing all the gasoline and putting new gasoline in the tank even if fuel stabilizer was used. Check/inspect all the electrical connections. Overall you will have to inspect and go through the whole vehicle. Your tires probably have flat spots on them from sitting that long and/or are dry rotted. Hopefully it vehicle was on jack stands to save the tires and the list can go's on etc.
 
Reactions: Neuron
H

hellcat120

New Member
Oct 16, 2003
7
0
1
May 7, 2017
#4
  • May 7, 2017
  • #4
wmburns said:
I have done this same thing for my 2000 GT project car.

Step one. Drain the gas tank. It's quite possible to disconnect the fuel filter and power the fuel pump directly using a battery charger. There's a round connector near the rear of the gas tank. The wire colors are RD/BK and BN/PK. Be careful not to short out any other pins. If you hear the fuel pump run but nothing comes out then reverse the wires.

When I had to do this I disposed of the nasty gas by putting a gallon or so into all of my other cars and my neighbor's cars. I figured a small amount of sale gas mixed in with good gas won't hurt. Otherwise you would have to pay to have the gas disposed of.

Strongly consider sending the Fuel injectors out for cleaning and flow testing. I have had good results using InjectorRX.com. Once cleaned and tested they are as good as new. Much cheaper than new.

Change the oil.

Make sure the battery is fully charged. Battery terminals clean and tight.

When starting for the first time, pull the fuel pump fuse or disconnect the fuel pump connector so that it won't start. Crank the motor until oil is seen down the oil filler neck.

If you are super anal then pull all of the spark plugs and put a small amount of oil down the spark plugs holes. Crank the motor with the spark plugs out.

Re-enable the fuel pump. Turn the key on/pause/off several times WITHOUT cranking. Listen for the fuel pump to run each time. This is needed to re-pressurize the fuel system.

Cross fingers.

Start car.

Have beer (or begin trouble shooting).

1996+ Crank with no start check list
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/4-6l-tech/336452-1997-mustang-wont-ignite.html#2984838
Click to expand...
View attachment 580990
wmburns said:
I have done this same thing for my 2000 GT project car

Step one. Drain the gas tank. It's quite possible to disconnect the fuel filter and power the fuel pump directly using a battery charger. There's a round connector near the rear of the gas tank. The wire colors are RD/BK and BN/PK. Be careful not to short out any other pins. If you hear the fuel pump run but nothing comes out then reverse the wires.

When I had to do this I disposed of the nasty gas by putting a gallon or so into all of my other cars and my neighbor's cars. I figured a small amount of sale gas mixed in with good gas won't hurt. Otherwise you would have to pay to have the gas disposed of.

Strongly consider sending the Fuel injectors out for cleaning and flow testing. I have had good results using InjectorRX.com. Once cleaned and tested they are as good as new. Much cheaper than new.

Change the oil.

Make sure the battery is fully charged. Battery terminals clean and tight.

When starting for the first time, pull the fuel pump fuse or disconnect the fuel pump connector so that it won't start. Crank the motor until oil is seen down the oil filler neck.

If you are super anal then pull all of the spark plugs and put a small amount of oil down the spark plugs holes. Crank the motor with the spark plugs out.

Re-enable the fuel pump. Turn the key on/pause/off several times WITHOUT cranking. Listen for the fuel pump to run each time. This is needed to re-pressurize the fuel system.

Cross fingers.

Start car.

Have beer (or begin trouble shooting).

1996+ Crank with no start check list
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/4-6l-tech/336452-1997-mustang-wont-ignite.html#2984838
Click to expand...
 
H

hellcat120

New Member
Oct 16, 2003
7
0
1
May 7, 2017
#5
  • May 7, 2017
  • #5
hellcat120 said:
View attachment 580990
Click to expand...
Thanks guys that is pretty much the plan I have under way. Dropped the rank today drained the gas and will be replacing the Fuel pump and filter tomorrow
 

Saberstang

Active Member
May 2, 2017
130
24
28
Atlanta, GA
May 7, 2017
#6
  • May 7, 2017
  • #6
The inhibitors in your coolant is probably bad too. I would completely flush and refill your cooling system also and check all your hoses.
 
H

hellcat120

New Member
Oct 16, 2003
7
0
1
May 8, 2017
#7
  • May 8, 2017
  • #7
I bought new coolant yesterday... checked all belts and hoses... looked over break lines along with fuel lines. Hopefully I can start it today.
 
H

hellcat120

New Member
Oct 16, 2003
7
0
1
May 12, 2017
#8
  • May 12, 2017
  • #8
I can't get power to the Fuel pump, I looked for bad wires... checked the inertia switch....checked fuses.....
Any ideas would be appreciated
 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician
Aug 14, 2009
5,892
514
204
Houston Texas
May 12, 2017
#9
  • May 12, 2017
  • #9
Sooooooo Didn't the fuel pump work before the work was done?

Is there +12 volts key on power to the trunk mounted IFS switch? The results of this one test will set the direction for all other tests.
 
H

hellcat120

New Member
Oct 16, 2003
7
0
1
May 13, 2017
#10
  • May 13, 2017
  • #10
I was told the car ran great before it was parked... I changed the Fuel pump before I fired up the car. I wasn't getting fire before IFS switch.... i thought fuse or inertia button but both seemed good. I will manually power up the pump today to see if it works... then. ?
 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician
Aug 14, 2009
5,892
514
204
Houston Texas
May 13, 2017
#11
  • May 13, 2017
  • #11
IF there's no key on power coming into the trunk IFS switch the problem lies upstream at:
  • Blown F1.14 Fuse or other BJB fuse box issue such as main fusible link.
  • CCRM "issue" such as failed CCRM. Some tests will help narrow this down.
  • bad CCRM ground. Check the black wire with white strip that goes around the battery. It connects to a round single pin connector. Also check the grounds around the radiator core support. Possible to test the black wires at the CCRM for the ability to carry a ground to know for sure.
  • Bad ignition switch
  • wiring fault
  • not using a good KNOWN good ground for the original test (original IFS test in error).
Test for key on +12 volts using a KNOWN good ground fuse F2.34, F2.2, and F2.8. Double check that the fuse is GOOD. Look for power in and out of the fuse.

IF no power at fuse F2.34 suspect a bad ignition switch.

IF no power at fuse F2.2 suspect a problem towards the CCRM. More tests needed to confirm if the CCRM is bad (IE power in but no power out).

1999-2004 MY fuse panel schedule:
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...r-swap-wont-fire-please-help.html#post2669271
 
Last edited: May 13, 2017
Reactions: Neuron
H

hellcat120

New Member
Oct 16, 2003
7
0
1
May 15, 2017
#12
  • May 15, 2017
  • #12
Mustang roared back to life after I found a Weak connection in the new fuel pump. A 100 miles and the car is doing great
 
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