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common questions from a rookie

  • Thread starter Thread starter jp51mustang
  • Start date Start date Apr 13, 2011
J

jp51mustang

New Member
Sep 20, 2005
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Apr 13, 2011
#1
  • Apr 13, 2011
  • #1
I've been slowly, very slowly working to restore my 1965 coupe. My dad bought it new way back when, he sold it to his dad in 72. It sat in my Grandpa's garage until 92. I drove it a bit but it sat while I went to college. Fast forward...it's completely apart in my garage.

I don't know much about the whole process. But so far I took a class an rebuilt the 289. And I had help and installed R&C cross member. My next to do is to replace the rotten rear frames, then to patch the rust spots on the fenders and quarters.

Questions:
1. Assuming everything else is solid, what's the rebuild/restoration order?
2. Sounds like R&C 2inch drop spindles are too low, if that's true what eye level rear springs make sense to have level ride height with stock spindles?

Thanks for the input
 
G

gregski

Active Member
Mar 13, 2010
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Sacramento, California
Apr 13, 2011
#2
  • Apr 13, 2011
  • #2
with rotten rear frame rails I would not be "Assuming everything else is solid"

"it's completely apart in my garage" so is all the glass out, is the headliner and carpet out of her, how are the floor boards, lay a light under the car in your garage, turn off your garage light and look inside the car for pin holes, then check out the cowl section, poor water inside them through the vent holes and see where it pores out, are the front fenders off the car, how are they on the inside, how is the front frame section

sorry about not answering your suspension question, in my opinion that is way down the line
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
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79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Apr 14, 2011
#3
  • Apr 14, 2011
  • #3
Anything that's not solid should be cut away and solid metal welded in. Do nothing else until that's completed.
 

NMEMJCM

Member
Nov 10, 2009
83
2
6
Long Beach CA
Apr 14, 2011
#4
  • Apr 14, 2011
  • #4
+1 +1 +1
 

robbz28

Member
Sep 23, 2009
775
5
19
Epps, LA
Apr 14, 2011
#5
  • Apr 14, 2011
  • #5
Listen to these guys....there is a best order and a time to worry about certain parts of your car. I also understand that sometimes you have to do things differently depending on your circumstances. If you are like me and just don't have the space, then you need to still look at everything, but do it in sections, but always bodywork first. then worry about suspension, brakes, and drivetrain, then lastly interior.
I had to be able to drive my car at any time in order to move it, so I got it running first and then commenced to working on the body with the engine and transmission still in the car, it can be done, but its a headache, if you have the room, strip it down to a shell like the guys said and get it high up on some jack stands where you can get to every part of the car with ease.
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Apr 15, 2011
#6
  • Apr 15, 2011
  • #6
chassis, suspension, and brakes in that order first. if the foundation is no good, then the rest of the car will be garbage regardless of how much money you spend on the car. after that drive train. leave the body and interior for last as those can be done while you enjoy the car.
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
10
79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Apr 15, 2011
#7
  • Apr 15, 2011
  • #7
The only odd-sounding thing I'd do is install the headliner or convertible top after edge-painting but before main painting.
 

jackson0215

Member
Dec 10, 2009
101
3
19
Apr 15, 2011
#8
  • Apr 15, 2011
  • #8
+1 on the body work. One thing to consider when replacing panels is to cut out a piece and replace it, move to the next section and do the same. You want to get all of the rust out but also keep in mind that since these are uni body cars it does not take allot to get them out of square.
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
10
79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Apr 15, 2011
#9
  • Apr 15, 2011
  • #9
True. Many people see two bad quarter panels, and cut both off. The quarter panel was designed by Ford as 20% of the strength of the rear end, so with them both cut off you'll have a hard time keeping the car square and true. Do the worst one first, with the car blocked straight at several points.
 
J

jp51mustang

New Member
Sep 20, 2005
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2
Apr 15, 2011
#10
  • Apr 15, 2011
  • #10
Thanks guys, this is helpful. I did already replace the driver side floor pan. Ive got the fenders off and I've striped them, primed them so they won't rust, but I wanted to make sure I cut out all the rust. I'm about half way through patching one side. Front frame looks good, I had help welding in the cross member too, then I boxed in most of the frame in a similar manor to what the cross member kit did. The cowl seems solid too, though I just pull the car out of my storage shed and mice made a nest in there. I've got the trunk floor cut out so I could see how bad the frame is. The glass is still in, but if that should come out next I'll do it.

I guess I'm assuming that I should cut that bad spots out of the quarters next and strip as much paint as I can to check it all out, weld in the pieces and rattle can primer it as I go?
 
J

jp51mustang

New Member
Sep 20, 2005
26
0
2
Apr 15, 2011
#11
  • Apr 15, 2011
  • #11
I should have said that except for the headliner, glass and the wires everything is striped off the car.

This pic is a couple years old (I"m slow with this project) but the cars seems in pretty good shape.
 
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