competition engineering subframe connectors

chromedog · Jan 22, 2008

ive just picked up a set of c.e. sub connectors for my 65... they are the bolt in type, but i plan on welding them. my question is this, i know you weld the front of the connectors to the front sub, and the rear uses the leaf spring bolt as one attaching point, but is everyone also welding the rear, or do you use the through bolt that runs vertically? can i bolt and weld the rear? lastly, how much stiffness is gained by running stringers out to the rockers?

65fastbackresto · Jan 23, 2008

I just bolted mine on

and they work great, I thought about welding them but decided if I ever had to change it later I would have to destroy something to do it, so I lef it alone. Just bolting them on you`ll be amazed how it stiffens the car up, i sure was.

I`ll give you a tip that aint in the instructions, when you drill the front frame rail holes, put a jack under the front of the subframe connector to hold it real tight against the floor pan, and drill right thru the subframe connector into the frame, so there isn`t any chance anything can move around during the drilling process.

palerider94 · Jan 23, 2008

When you put yours on were the wheels under load? Heard the best way is to do from ramps not with car jacked up.

mustbereel · Jan 23, 2008

chromedog said:
ive just picked up a set of c.e. sub connectors for my 65... they are the bolt in type, but i plan on welding them. my question is this, i know you weld the front of the connectors to the front sub, and the rear uses the leaf spring bolt as one attaching point, but is everyone also welding the rear, or do you use the through bolt that runs vertically? can i bolt and weld the rear? lastly, how much stiffness is gained by running stringers out to the rockers?

I added stringers (or jacking rails) to my 67. They added very little. Look at my thread about torsional rigidity testing for pictures and details. Page 3, posts 60 and 63.

65fastbackresto · Jan 23, 2008

No I did mine with the suspension hanging.

How exactly would you get the eye bolt thru the front of the leaf spring with it under a load? Sounds like a chore to me.

GNGREN · Jan 24, 2008

How exactly would you get the eye bolt through the front of the leaf spring with it under a load?

You need to take it the bolt out no matter what. Get them aligned and tighten it up, support it at the spring perches.

I just finished putting mine on 2 weeks ago. I did them while doing new rear leafs. I pulled up on to ramps and swapped the springs and hung the SFC's from the front bolts. I supported the rear and put a jack under the SFC and gave it a little push to help remove some of the 40 year droop. I had to modify the brackets a little to get them to fit snug on the frame points. (I don't recall the brand but they look like the comp's) I then plug welded the bolt holes in the front bracket and finished with perimeter welds. In the back I perimeter welded every where I could. I took her for a ride and it was unreal how different it felt, although the springs that were replaced were toast so that probably had a big influence.

c24sc · Jan 24, 2008

65fastbackresto said:
and they work great, I thought about welding them but decided if I ever had to change it later I would have to destroy something to do it, so I lef it alone. Just bolting them on you`ll be amazed how it stiffens the car up, i sure was.

I`ll give you a tip that aint in the instructions, when you drill the front frame rail holes, put a jack under the front of the subframe connector to hold it real tight against the floor pan, and drill right thru the subframe connector into the frame, so there isn`t any chance anything can move around during the drilling process.

Thats what I did too. So far I've just had time to get one side installed.

Any tricks to get the upper bolt hole drilled? I have the set from Mustang plus (think they sell some other brand..but the fit a lot better then I thought they would). The front has 2 holes, one lower and one upper. I only have the usuall corded and cordless drills (no air tools at home) and they are far to big to get in there and drill the top hole. Again, any pointers for that one?

Nate

65fastbackresto · Jan 25, 2008

I had to buy an air drill to get to mine

but, you might try using a really long bit so you can get the drill away from the floor pan.

I put the tip on there about using the jack cause I didnt use one on the first side, drilled pilot holes, of course they were off just a hair, and had to woller the holes out the get the bolts thru. I may have to weld mine up later because of the little bit of slop on that side.

LMan · Jan 25, 2008

I welded in both ends on mine, was pleased with the result.

competition engineering subframe connectors

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