Complete floor assembly (full floor pan all the way to the trunk)

runawayabc123 · Dec 7, 2010

Anyone have any experience with these?

They include:
-Full Floor
-Transition Pan
-Trunk Pan
-Rockers
-Rear Frame Rails

As seen here:
COMPLETE FLOOR ASSEMBLY COUPE / FASTBACK 1964-1966 | CJ Pony Parts

That is a lot of metal to have out at once. But, it should have everything all lined up pretty well?

What say you guys?

I am working on a '65 fastback and we intend to replace all of the parts in this assembly but the rockers... but hey, one whole thing. (One of the rear frame rails was half replaced and for the work we are doing, they may as well both go. Normal tearing in the transition pan from the shocks.)

We will also be doing a fire wall and likely go with shock tower+apron assemblies too (to give you an idea of what we are replacing).

Thanks.

NY-67stang · Dec 7, 2010

I'm doing the full floor pan right now on my 67.
I can tell you it will not fit perfect.
Check my thread here

Full floorpan - Gap at rear TB - Vintage Mustang Forums

In hindsight I would only cut out the bad areas - nothing more. I would also leave a flange at the rocker and lap weld it.

The panel I have did not fit well around the wheel wells or the rear torque boxes. The rocker flanges were about a 1/4-3/8 inch short and the front crossmember area really needed persuasion to pull it down tight.

runawayabc123 · Dec 8, 2010

Just so we are on the same page, I am talking about this floor pan. I think your's is just the full floor pan, not the bigger assemblying?

NY-67stang · Dec 8, 2010

right. Mine did not include the trunk area and floor supports (although I installed new floor supports and 2 torque boxes)

Are you planning on putting in torque boxes? Now is the time to do it.

Make sure you square the car before you cut out that much metal.

I still think you will still be ahead by cuttng out only what you need to replace. Don't feel like you have to use the whole piece. I bought the whole firewall and only used pieces of it as needed.

Most threads I have read refer to poor fit, rarely are they perfect!

Good luck and enjoy and when you get frustrated go away and come back later.

StangDreamin' · Dec 8, 2010

Hey Morey, I looked at your thread on VMF - that almost looks like an ECI project!

EDIT: Except that aftermarket/repop sheetmetal actually exists for Mustangs!

Fstbk · Dec 8, 2010

I like the idea, but how does one actually install that thing? In reality you are not changing the floorpan but the entire underside of the car...or are you changing the top of the car on the chassis...hmmm.

Anyway, how do you lift the body off the chassis?

NY-67stang · Dec 8, 2010

StangDreamin' said:
Hey Morey, I looked at your thread on VMF - that almost looks like an ECI project!

EDIT: Except that aftermarket/repop sheetmetal actually exists for Mustangs!

Ha, mine is not that bad! My pans were rusted near the toeboards but severly banged up near the back side, it looked like the PO hit a curb. After cutting out the "long floor Pan" area and reading some posts it seemed as though it would be easier to replace the whole floor.

Fstbk said:
I like the idea, but how does one actually install that thing? In reality you are not changing the floorpan but the entire underside of the car...or are you changing the top of the car on the chassis...hmmm.

Anyway, how do you lift the body off the chassis?

Actually you just cut out the floor as there is no chasis on a unit body.

Fstbk · Dec 8, 2010

NY-67stang said:
Actually you just cut out the floor as there is no chasis on a unit body.

I dont think we are on the same page here...you cant just "Cut out the floor" and install this. This unit includes the rear frames and rear suspension mounting points, it even has the front floor pan supports, this thing is not a drop in in any way shape or form. In reality the roof and rear quarters with the wheel houses attached would need to be dropped down on top of this and then squared up.

With that said I would love to try one.

NY-67stang · Dec 10, 2010

Fstbk said:
I dont think we are on the same page here...you cant just "Cut out the floor" and install this. This unit includes the rear frames and rear suspension mounting points, it even has the front floor pan supports, this thing is not a drop in in any way shape or form. In reality the roof and rear quarters with the wheel houses attached would need to be dropped down on top of this and then squared up.

With that said I would love to try one.

Ah yes, I couldn't tell the rear frame rails and suspension mounting points were included.
It looked like you just needed to remove the front floor supports and then cut out the rest of floor and trunk area (probably in pieces would be easier).

You would really want to make sure the car is square and braced for sure!

runawayabc123 · Dec 12, 2010

So... nobody has acutally installed/seen/touched/used one of these yet?

I maybe have to be the ginnie pig

NY-67stang · Dec 12, 2010

runawayabc123 said:
So... nobody has acutally installed/seen/touched/used one of these yet?

I maybe have to be the ginnie pig

Keep a log for us and post it as you go along. It will be interesting to see how you do it.

I'm thinking if you brace it well and mount the body on a rotisserie it might make it easier to lift the body off.

10secgoal · Dec 14, 2010

runawayabc123 said:
So... nobody has acutally installed/seen/touched/used one of these yet?

I maybe have to be the ginnie pig

Not not but hell no. The bigger the piece, the worse it fits. Not to mention how heavy and bulky that thing is. The fitting and tweaking, you'll need a wrecking ball to tap that thing into place.

runawayabc123 · Dec 14, 2010

10secgoal said:
Not not but hell no. The bigger the piece, the worse it fits. Not to mention how heavy and bulky that thing is. The fitting and tweaking, you'll need a wrecking ball to tap that thing into place.

Either that, or I am guessing that since so little is left of the car, we may be fitting the car to it.

runawayabc123 · Jan 18, 2011

Santa was late and finally showed up.

Please note that it showed up on some extra framing/bracing like for shipping.

We will have to somehow manage to get the floor brancing for the dual exhaust out... anyone have any ideas of how to make it work with seat belts?

Here is a test fitting of the new parts

The shock towers are not near OEM... as the aprons are one part

Lastly, I bring you the EASIEST firewall install ever.

Now, I am VERY interested to hear in any suggestions for how to support the car while putting this beast in. My dad was thinking of leaving the old inner rockers in so the outter rockers don't warp or get out of shape. Also, this picture give you an idea of what we are replacing... any suggestions on where to start? Feel free to ask questions or for more pictures of any of these parts.

Fstbk · Jan 18, 2011

Wow. this is going to be good. Next time could you make the pics just a tad smaller tho?

66Coupe289POWER · Jan 18, 2011

I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination so my ideas could be totally wrong. I would take off as much as I could from the original body and take measurements. Then I would make a x brace that ties the a and b pillars together. Then I would find a way to lift the body by the roof without distorting anything then cut/drill all the welds necessary to remove the floor. Maybe build lift points that attach to the x brace and the tops of the glass openings. Then I would position the new floor under the body and lower the body onto the floor making sure all the panels are over or under the correct mating panel. Then starting at each corner under the pillars screw the pieces together with sheet metal screws making sure the measurements taken earlier are the same. I would not keep the original inner rockers b/c the new floor has inner rockers and doubling up the metal will spread the body apart. Also I would make use of the bracing that is attached to the floor until everything is welded up. In my head my method will work but my head is a strange place sometimes.

runawayabc123 · Jan 19, 2011

I agree on knocking out the old inner rockers (they also are looking pretty nasty). What I was thinking was to create a craddle that supported the outter rockers on both sides, but the right/left sides of the craddle have to be connected to as not to flex in/out. But that was where the outter rocker distortion problem came in with removing the inner rockers.

As for the pictures, I don't have any photo editing software to make them smaller... how do you "make" smaller thumnails for the thread?

horseballz · Jan 19, 2011

Most software that imports/stores pics from your camera will give you an option for "email". Click on it, select the size and email the pics to yourself, save them to your desktop and then upload them to here. Some trial and error may be required. What brand is your camera?
HTH,
Gene

pyroman · Jan 19, 2011

Keep us posted, this looks really cool. Good luck to you.

I can't offer anything else other than my encouragement since I have no experience in this

66Coupe289POWER · Jan 19, 2011

IMO you need to find a way to support the car from the roof since that will be the only structure left. If you support it at the bottom things will bend and move.

Complete floor assembly (full floor pan all the way to the trunk)

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