Complete floor assembly (full floor pan all the way to the trunk)

Anyone have any experience with these?

They include:
-Full Floor
-Transition Pan
-Trunk Pan
-Rockers
-Rear Frame Rails

As seen here:
COMPLETE FLOOR ASSEMBLY COUPE / FASTBACK 1964-1966 | CJ Pony Parts

That is a lot of metal to have out at once. But, it should have everything all lined up pretty well?

What say you guys?

I am working on a '65 fastback and we intend to replace all of the parts in this assembly but the rockers... but hey, one whole thing. (One of the rear frame rails was half replaced and for the work we are doing, they may as well both go. Normal tearing in the transition pan from the shocks.)

We will also be doing a fire wall and likely go with shock tower+apron assemblies too (to give you an idea of what we are replacing).

Thanks.
 
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I'm doing the full floor pan right now on my 67.
I can tell you it will not fit perfect.
Check my thread here

Full floorpan - Gap at rear TB - Vintage Mustang Forums

In hindsight I would only cut out the bad areas - nothing more. I would also leave a flange at the rocker and lap weld it.

The panel I have did not fit well around the wheel wells or the rear torque boxes. The rocker flanges were about a 1/4-3/8 inch short and the front crossmember area really needed persuasion to pull it down tight.
 
FLP20.jpg


Just so we are on the same page, I am talking about this floor pan. I think your's is just the full floor pan, not the bigger assemblying?
 
right. Mine did not include the trunk area and floor supports (although I installed new floor supports and 2 torque boxes)

Are you planning on putting in torque boxes? Now is the time to do it.

Make sure you square the car before you cut out that much metal.

I still think you will still be ahead by cuttng out only what you need to replace. Don't feel like you have to use the whole piece. I bought the whole firewall and only used pieces of it as needed.

Most threads I have read refer to poor fit, rarely are they perfect!

Good luck and enjoy and when you get frustrated go away and come back later.
 
I like the idea, but how does one actually install that thing? In reality you are not changing the floorpan but the entire underside of the car...or are you changing the top of the car on the chassis...hmmm.

Anyway, how do you lift the body off the chassis?
 
Hey Morey, I looked at your thread on VMF - that almost looks like an ECI project!

EDIT: Except that aftermarket/repop sheetmetal actually exists for Mustangs!

Ha, mine is not that bad! My pans were rusted near the toeboards but severly banged up near the back side, it looked like the PO hit a curb. After cutting out the "long floor Pan" area and reading some posts it seemed as though it would be easier to replace the whole floor.


I like the idea, but how does one actually install that thing? In reality you are not changing the floorpan but the entire underside of the car...or are you changing the top of the car on the chassis...hmmm.

Anyway, how do you lift the body off the chassis?

Actually you just cut out the floor as there is no chasis on a unit body.
 
Actually you just cut out the floor as there is no chasis on a unit body.


I dont think we are on the same page here...you cant just "Cut out the floor" and install this. This unit includes the rear frames and rear suspension mounting points, it even has the front floor pan supports, this thing is not a drop in in any way shape or form. In reality the roof and rear quarters with the wheel houses attached would need to be dropped down on top of this and then squared up.

With that said I would love to try one.
 
I dont think we are on the same page here...you cant just "Cut out the floor" and install this. This unit includes the rear frames and rear suspension mounting points, it even has the front floor pan supports, this thing is not a drop in in any way shape or form. In reality the roof and rear quarters with the wheel houses attached would need to be dropped down on top of this and then squared up.

With that said I would love to try one.

Ah yes, I couldn't tell the rear frame rails and suspension mounting points were included.
It looked like you just needed to remove the front floor supports and then cut out the rest of floor and trunk area (probably in pieces would be easier).

You would really want to make sure the car is square and braced for sure!
 
Santa was late and finally showed up. :)

Please note that it showed up on some extra framing/bracing like for shipping.
floor1q.jpg

floor2v.jpg

floor3.jpg

floor4.jpg

We will have to somehow manage to get the floor brancing for the dual exhaust out... anyone have any ideas of how to make it work with seat belts?
floor4a.jpg

floor5g.jpg

floor6.jpg

floor7.jpg

floor8.jpg

floor9.jpg

floor10.jpg

floor11.jpg

Here is a test fitting of the new parts
newbottom1.jpg

newbottom2.jpg

The shock towers are not near OEM... as the aprons are one part
shocktowerdriver.jpg

shocktowerpass.jpg

Lastly, I bring you the EASIEST firewall install ever. :D
easiestfirewallinstall.jpg


Now, I am VERY interested to hear in any suggestions for how to support the car while putting this beast in. My dad was thinking of leaving the old inner rockers in so the outter rockers don't warp or get out of shape. Also, this picture give you an idea of what we are replacing... any suggestions on where to start? Feel free to ask questions or for more pictures of any of these parts.
 
I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination so my ideas could be totally wrong. I would take off as much as I could from the original body and take measurements. Then I would make a x brace that ties the a and b pillars together. Then I would find a way to lift the body by the roof without distorting anything then cut/drill all the welds necessary to remove the floor. Maybe build lift points that attach to the x brace and the tops of the glass openings. Then I would position the new floor under the body and lower the body onto the floor making sure all the panels are over or under the correct mating panel. Then starting at each corner under the pillars screw the pieces together with sheet metal screws making sure the measurements taken earlier are the same. I would not keep the original inner rockers b/c the new floor has inner rockers and doubling up the metal will spread the body apart. Also I would make use of the bracing that is attached to the floor until everything is welded up. In my head my method will work but my head is a strange place sometimes.
 
I agree on knocking out the old inner rockers (they also are looking pretty nasty). What I was thinking was to create a craddle that supported the outter rockers on both sides, but the right/left sides of the craddle have to be connected to as not to flex in/out. But that was where the outter rocker distortion problem came in with removing the inner rockers.

As for the pictures, I don't have any photo editing software to make them smaller... how do you "make" smaller thumnails for the thread?
 
Most software that imports/stores pics from your camera will give you an option for "email". Click on it, select the size and email the pics to yourself, save them to your desktop and then upload them to here. Some trial and error may be required. What brand is your camera?
HTH,
Gene