Hey guys, so thought I would share this with ya also...
I replaced my control arms completely with FRPP M-3075-D upgrade kit. (Which I hear is now discontinued) and the steeda Bumpsteer kit
Anyhow, nice piece, comes with good bushings and ball joints...
So here's how I did it.
Getting them off.
Remove wheel, rotor, rotor bracket 15mm x2, Caliper 12mm x2, and ABS sensor 6mm. Bunjy or secure caliper. Remove link kit.
Steady jack under control arm, remove strut bolts. Remove ball joint bolt before tie rod. Remove tie rod bolt and hammer out old one along with ball joint.
Place hub aside
Lower jack slowly, remove spring. You don't need spring compressors, well..I have lowered springs, so maybe stock guys can chime in and see if it's the same with stock springs
Should look like this:
View attachment 221469
*note, should look like that plus the control arm, I took mine out already when I took this pic.*
This is a good time to clean all up in there...
Remove this bolt connecting the K-member, found at the rear outside of the control arm.: The bolt to the right of what I'm pointing at is the rear control arm bolt.
Remove the control arms nut from the inside and remove bolt.
(IF BOLT WILL NOT COME OUT SEE THE LINE DIRECTLY BELOW)
:Zip2: as in Cut it out.
IMO, it is easier to cut it out then mess with it. These bolts can rust to the sleeve, thus spin inside the control arm bushing and can be quite the PITA to remove.
I mean, by all means, if you wanna try do it, but after my exp, I was much happier cutting it and replacing the bolts. Although from Ford, the nuts and bolts (x4) will cost you 59.81 dealer cost, it's worth avoiding the aggravation.
For the front bolts, you will need to remove the 2 steering rack bolts and jostle it out of the way, be careful not to rip the boot thus adding to the expense.
Just use a pry bar and pop it off the bushing and it should give you clearance.
Hint Hint,
Once the control arm falls out it's as simple as reversal. Install em how they came out and you're off to the alignment shop.
As for the bumpsteer, it's the same as replacing the tie-rods. Just looks a ton cooler.
****EXTRAS***
Great time to replace the brakes, as it's already out.
Same with the lugs and/or hub. If you suspect a bearing is gone, the new hub will come with new lugs.
Lugs aren't expensive and easy to replace...once the hub is off, a good thwap with a hammer and they're out, place the new lug through the back, a couple washers and tighten em up until they're flush.
I also painted mine with Dupli-colour black paint.
Here's everything but the brakes back together:
Cheers!
I replaced my control arms completely with FRPP M-3075-D upgrade kit. (Which I hear is now discontinued) and the steeda Bumpsteer kit
Anyhow, nice piece, comes with good bushings and ball joints...
So here's how I did it.
Getting them off.
Remove wheel, rotor, rotor bracket 15mm x2, Caliper 12mm x2, and ABS sensor 6mm. Bunjy or secure caliper. Remove link kit.
Steady jack under control arm, remove strut bolts. Remove ball joint bolt before tie rod. Remove tie rod bolt and hammer out old one along with ball joint.
Place hub aside
Lower jack slowly, remove spring. You don't need spring compressors, well..I have lowered springs, so maybe stock guys can chime in and see if it's the same with stock springs
Should look like this:
View attachment 221469
*note, should look like that plus the control arm, I took mine out already when I took this pic.*
This is a good time to clean all up in there...
Remove this bolt connecting the K-member, found at the rear outside of the control arm.: The bolt to the right of what I'm pointing at is the rear control arm bolt.
Remove the control arms nut from the inside and remove bolt.
(IF BOLT WILL NOT COME OUT SEE THE LINE DIRECTLY BELOW)
:Zip2: as in Cut it out.
IMO, it is easier to cut it out then mess with it. These bolts can rust to the sleeve, thus spin inside the control arm bushing and can be quite the PITA to remove.
I mean, by all means, if you wanna try do it, but after my exp, I was much happier cutting it and replacing the bolts. Although from Ford, the nuts and bolts (x4) will cost you 59.81 dealer cost, it's worth avoiding the aggravation.
For the front bolts, you will need to remove the 2 steering rack bolts and jostle it out of the way, be careful not to rip the boot thus adding to the expense.
Just use a pry bar and pop it off the bushing and it should give you clearance.
Hint Hint,
Once the control arm falls out it's as simple as reversal. Install em how they came out and you're off to the alignment shop.
As for the bumpsteer, it's the same as replacing the tie-rods. Just looks a ton cooler.
****EXTRAS***
Great time to replace the brakes, as it's already out.
Same with the lugs and/or hub. If you suspect a bearing is gone, the new hub will come with new lugs.
Lugs aren't expensive and easy to replace...once the hub is off, a good thwap with a hammer and they're out, place the new lug through the back, a couple washers and tighten em up until they're flush.
I also painted mine with Dupli-colour black paint.
Here's everything but the brakes back together:
Cheers!