Wheels-Tires Quad shock quandry

[gearhead77]

Looking for input here:

I like the look of the gold mesh SVE wheels from LMR, so when they finally came back in stock, I bought them. However, in my mobile site ordering frenzy to buy them, I didn't read closely that I had added the staggered setup to my cart (17x9 rear, 17x8 front). My car is largely original and stock and I'm trying to keep it as close as I can. I finally got my car from storage and did a test fit and it's obvious there will be clearance issues. LMR is being finicky about doing an exchange for 17x8's and I'm sure that part of the reason is the wheels are no longer in stock and it took nearly a year for them to come back into stock last time.

So after searching here, these are my options:
- Run without quad shocks which seems about 50/50 on the difference it makes.
-Get the OEM style quad shock, which is thinner than the ones I have on there. Or removing the dust shield from the current quad.
- Get new control arms, eliminating the need for a quad shock (according to LMR, which would like to sell me more parts.)

I'm not entirely opposed to the last option, since doing the work required to replace the control arms would allow me to replace the 30 year old rear springs and associated bushings, which are in OK shape since the car only has 72k on it but still old. And of course, I could just do all the work and replace those bushings.

This car is a cruiser, I'm looking to keep at as close to original as possible, but I do enjoy driving it "spiritedly" on occasion. If upgraded control arms make it better, I'm fine with the upgrade.

Kids, make sure you read closely before clicking buy!

 

[Mustang5L5]

Grab a Gabriel 14039 quad shock on Amazon and test fit it. If it fits better, buy another. If it doesn't, just return it.


I still run quads even with upgraded MM control arms. I had a slight bit of wheel hop and the quads eliminated that.

 

[2000xp8]

You can just buy a set of oem style quads on rockauto cheap.

Keep in mind, if you are that close to the quad shock, you are probably also pretty close to the exhaust.

I'm all for changing the control arms (to maximum motorsports), just remember each time you make one part of the suspension better you expose the next weakest link.
I wouldn't do them if you don't have subframe connectors, especially on a vert.
And personally my experience with quads is that the car is better with them, than without them.

 

[AeroCoupe]

I do not run quad shocks on either car. Maximum Motorsports LCA's on the Coupe and Griggs Racing LCA's on the T-Bird and both car plant really well. There seem to be varying experiences as to running quad shocks but mine without them has been great but I would not removed them if you are still going to run the stock LCA's.

 

[gearhead77]

I’m also thinking of just selling the wheels for now and re-ordering when they come in stock again. If anyone is interested please PM me. I’d prefer local or within an hour or so of Pittsburgh since shipping will be pricey.

 

[2000xp8]

If they fit with stock style quads flipped or with a small spacer, i personally would run them.
It's the tires that usually are the issue, people love to try and stuff the largest tire under the rear, which it doesn't sound like you will do.

 

[nickyb]

I bought a used set of Metco upper and lower control arms 16 years ago, they completely eliminated wheel hop. I removed the quads about six years ago and no difference at all. I daily my stang and plant the rear wheels (245/45 17's ) regularly.

 

[gearhead77]

Would

If they fit with stock style quads flipped or with a small spacer, i personally would run them.
It's the tires that usually are the issue, people love to try and stuff the largest tire under the rear, which it doesn't sound like you will do.

Good point and good ideas. I did get the smaller Gabriel quad, which I’ll try. I’m not keen on spacers but 1/4 inch with a smaller quad and maybe a 265 or 255 tire might just be enough to work.

 

[gearhead77]

I bought a used set of Metco upper and lower control arms 16 years ago, they completely eliminated wheel hop. I removed the quads about six years ago and no difference at all. I daily my stang and plant the rear wheels (245/45 17's ) regularly.

Are you using 17x9 on the rears with a 245 tire?

 

[gearhead77]

So I'm thinking of doing 235/45/17 up front and 255/40/17 rear. LMR recommends (and if you buy the full wheel/tire package for these wheels, sends you) 245/45/17 front and 275/40/17 rear with the caveat that "modifications may be needed" of the nature we've already discussed.

Messing with an online tire size calculator shows the 255/40/17 is 1.1 inches wider than the stock 225/60/15. For comparison, the 275 section tire is almost 2" wider than stock! All the tires I'm considering list 9" wide as the largest wheel they'll fit. And I'm doing some of this for "thinking out loud" and the benefit for others that might find this thread.

 

[nickyb]

Are you using 17x9 on the rears with a 245 tire?

Yes front and rear

 

[Mustang5L5]

Gabriels are a little thinner, so you might be able to flip them to gain more clearance.

Obviously wheel offset plays a huge role in fit.

 

[Willybill32]

Looking for input here:

I like the look of the gold mesh SVE wheels from LMR, so when they finally came back in stock, I bought them. However, in my mobile site ordering frenzy to buy them, I didn't read closely that I had added the staggered setup to my cart (17x9 rear, 17x8 front). My car is largely original and stock and I'm trying to keep it as close as I can. I finally got my car from storage and did a test fit and it's obvious there will be clearance issues. LMR is being finicky about doing an exchange for 17x8's and I'm sure that part of the reason is the wheels are no longer in stock and it took nearly a year for them to come back into stock last time.

So after searching here, these are my options:
- Run without quad shocks which seems about 50/50 on the difference it makes.
-Get the OEM style quad shock, which is thinner than the ones I have on there. Or removing the dust shield from the current quad.
- Get new control arms, eliminating the need for a quad shock (according to LMR, which would like to sell me more parts.)

I'm not entirely opposed to the last option, since doing the work required to replace the control arms would allow me to replace the 30 year old rear springs and associated bushings, which are in OK shape since the car only has 72k on it but still old. And of course, I could just do all the work and replace those bushings.

This car is a cruiser, I'm looking to keep at as close to original as possible, but I do enjoy driving it "spiritedly" on occasion. If upgraded control arms make it better, I'm fine with the upgrade.

Kids, make sure you read closely before clicking buy!

Late to the discussion...but I replaced all the struts and shocks (including quad shocks) on my '86 with Bilstein units, then installed the LMR staggered chrome pony wheels in 17X8/9 size with the Nitto tires. I reversed my quad shocks and got enough clearance to avoid spacers.

Bill

 

[Jarhead67]

Looking for input here:

I like the look of the gold mesh SVE wheels from LMR, so when they finally came back in stock, I bought them. However, in my mobile site ordering frenzy to buy them, I didn't read closely that I had added the staggered setup to my cart (17x9 rear, 17x8 front). My car is largely original and stock and I'm trying to keep it as close as I can. I finally got my car from storage and did a test fit and it's obvious there will be clearance issues. LMR is being finicky about doing an exchange for 17x8's and I'm sure that part of the reason is the wheels are no longer in stock and it took nearly a year for them to come back into stock last time.

So after searching here, these are my options:
- Run without quad shocks which seems about 50/50 on the difference it makes.
-Get the OEM style quad shock, which is thinner than the ones I have on there. Or removing the dust shield from the current quad.
- Get new control arms, eliminating the need for a quad shock (according to LMR, which would like to sell me more parts.)

I'm not entirely opposed to the last option, since doing the work required to replace the control arms would allow me to replace the 30 year old rear springs and associated bushings, which are in OK shape since the car only has 72k on it but still old. And of course, I could just do all the work and replace those bushings.

This car is a cruiser, I'm looking to keep at as close to original as possible, but I do enjoy driving it "spiritedly" on occasion. If upgraded control arms make it better, I'm fine with the upgrade.

Kids, make sure you read closely before clicking buy!

Flip the quad shocks. That’ll give you a little more room.