not going to lie a good driver has a lot to do with it... BUT if you dont have good parts in and under the car it is worthless how good the driver is in heads up racing...
Take it from someone who's broken suspension products before at a 1/4 mile track, quality products do make a difference. I've told the Chinese Red Upper / Lower Control arm story when were at an SCCA at Homestead Miami Road Course and both uppers broke. Car was towed 3 hours home all because my buddy went for price first.
I think quality parts are equally capable. Cheap parts are well....cheap. Suspension is where I spared no expense that's for sure.
I see lots of Company stickers on drag cars but because they bought spark plugs there or the company provided money for sticker placement doesn't mean said Company parts were the deciding factor in winning.
I think quality parts are equally capable. Cheap parts are well....cheap. Suspension is where I spared no expense that's for sure.
I see lots of Company stickers on drag cars but because they bought spark plugs there or the company provided money for sticker placement doesn't mean said Company parts were the deciding factor in winning.
As we all stated go the best route you can on suspension, it's that important. TeamZ is the latest suspension I installed and it's top notch and affordable. I'm not talking just control arms, I'm talking there entire front / rear suspension kit. Let me dig up a pic of TeamZ. Website http://www.teamzmotorsports.net/ Prices are on their website.
HPM made a name for themselves with their Megabite Jr. LCA's. They change the location point of the axle end, changing the Instant Center, so the tires plant themselves better under acceleration load. But in so doing, they introduce Roll Steer, meaning the rear axle no longer stays perpendicular to the centerline of the car when the body rolls. That's not something you want if you're into cornering, but the better bite is something you do want if you're drag racing. They're not bad arms for their intended purpose, which is straight line.
The dozens of championships our racers have won were won by racers actually using our products. I don't count those just displaying our stickers. I haven't finalized the list so I haven't posted it here. The rough draft is posted on our facebook fan page. I believe it's around three dozen.
Gearhead92 makes a legitimate point about race suspension vs street suspension. However, our 9-second 2010 GT sits on our street suspension (all polyurethane bushings) and my '06 GT, which is the demo vehicle for our Handling Package, also uses our street suspension. (all polyurethane bushings) It is excellent equipment.
Gearhead92 makes a legitimate point about race suspension vs street suspension. However, our 9-second 2010 GT sits on our street suspension (all polyurethane bushings) and my '06 GT, which is the demo vehicle for our Handling Package, also uses our street suspension. (all polyurethane bushings) It is excellent equipment.
I just wanted to add this for the benefit of people who find this thread in searches for information, like I did.
I have these control arms from LMR, and they are great.
More expensive does not necessarily = better, and cheap does not necessarily = ineffective or weak. Some companies charge more knowing people will pay for their name alone, and some charge less to get people to try their goods and see that they really are just as good for a more reasonable price. I understand that if you have wasted time and money saving up for the most expensive everything, then it can be hard to admit that people can be more economical than you have been and still get pretty much the same results, but that is no excuse to try and lead others astray. Your rear end will not fall apart with these in, provided they are installed correctly. On a stiff suspension, you should thread-lock everything, including the control arm bolts.
E1's in the army make more than most people in the middle class. To us college students, that is rich. All the same, coke tastes almost the same as pepsi, no matter which one costs more at the moment.
I have these control arms from LMR, and they are great.
More expensive does not necessarily = better, and cheap does not necessarily = ineffective or weak. Some companies charge more knowing people will pay for their name alone, and some charge less to get people to try their goods and see that they really are just as good for a more reasonable price. I understand that if you have wasted time and money saving up for the most expensive everything, then it can be hard to admit that people can be more economical than you have been and still get pretty much the same results, but that is no excuse to try and lead others astray. Your rear end will not fall apart with these in, provided they are installed correctly. On a stiff suspension, you should thread-lock everything, including the control arm bolts.
E1's in the army make more than most people in the middle class. To us college students, that is rich. All the same, coke tastes almost the same as pepsi, no matter which one costs more at the moment.
+50 Torque box destroyers, just nobody knew it when they saw how well they worked. I bet they would sell like crap now that we all know.
After recently doing tons of research on the best upper/lower control arms for the money, I ended up going with UPR's Elite Chrome Moly Urethane Control Arms.
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-chrome-moly-rear-control-arm-suspension-kit.html
I also had my torque boxes seam welded, installed some FFRP "C" Springs, and Tokico Blues at the same time, and have no complaints so far!
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-chrome-moly-rear-control-arm-suspension-kit.html
I also had my torque boxes seam welded, installed some FFRP "C" Springs, and Tokico Blues at the same time, and have no complaints so far!
You think they are hard on torque boxes, try southside lift bars, damn near tore my TB's off the car.
Now mine are 100% fabricated by a chassis shop, those arms were like $200 back in the day and they cost me another $1100 to fix their damage.
Anytime you stiffen your suspension, you are causing more stress to your undercarriage and to your passengers butts.
You pay the price to play the game. You can get torque box covers to protect it if you feel better about it. If you wan't longevity, consider a Toyota Camry or a Honda Civic
I would NEVER put anything UPR on my car.I've dealt with them in the past and will never do do so again. If you want quality go with MM, Griggs, Racecraft, Steeda or Team Z.
Google UPR + garbage
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62319
http://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/1101501-upr-arm-=-garbage.html
If this is a preview of the kind of "tech" "contribution" you're going to make, may I suggest a redirect to Mustangworld.com