Conversion? EFI to Carb

With guys like Pro-system and Quick fuel the Carb shop.. All you have to do is tell them what combo you have and they will build you a carb that is 99% right out of the box. On the Dyno i made 2 jet changes and went back to the jets pro systems put in it. Two dyno pulls in 5 mins. also my 364 ci race motor with a 780 holley could be a DD idles smoth. hot cold starts fine..

Go carbs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Holy Crap. Valium anybody? Yes, carbs are WAY cheaper. And yes, they CAN be pretty damn reliable. EFI is expensive to modify. It's just a matter of balance. If you have a daily driver, and it already has EFI, I'd say keep it. With any build, there's a tradeoff of drivability for power. With EFI, if done right, the tradeoff is minimal. When's the last time you saw a 600hp carb car sitting in traffic with the A/C blowing?
 
dragnazz5.0 said:
never heard of that carb and honestly ive never used a carb on one of my cars but i understand fully how they work. ive done some work on a 78 spitfire that has 4 SU motorcycle carbs on it...kinda trick at first but really easy to work with.

i understand that there is a wealth of knowledge out there for ford EFI but ive always liked carb cars and the simplicity involved. in my case im not so much doing it to get away from efi problems and searching through wiring diagrams to figure stuff out but im doing it for aesthetics and because its something that ive never done or had to deal with and it will definetly be a challenge.

Diagrams and pictures courtsey of http://www.carburetion.com

4 Webers and a manifold for your 5.0... A quick way to spend $3000...
289IDAS.webp


Weber exploded diagram... more little parts than a fancy Swiss watch...
40%20IDF.webp
 

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sbftech said:
I was gonna ask but didnt want to get yelled at again. I figure you cant have ac with a carb I dont know :rlaugh:

:fuss:




:D





Actually, I don't get it either. :scratch:

Maybe he was just pointing out that a carb can be "Luxurious" as well as practical :shrug:

Although, I do think a computer could better control both the idle and a/c with a wild cam (assuming a wild cam would be needed to get 600hp).
You big-timer carb guys would know better than me.
 
Lol,Im not getting into this...

But i got a question,anyone ever try runing an aftermarket mechanical fuel injection on the street?

Either n/a or blown?

It would be interesting to know how it would run....
 
Ok, I think I was missunderstood. Having computer problems, didn't get to finish what I was trying to say. The EFI system makes for a better daily driver. You can build a 600hp driver with EFI or carbs. But done right, the EFI will give you a smoother idle, better mpg, better reliability/lower maintenance. If your driver already has EFI, work with it.
 
I just think it's amazing how many people there are who after 20 yrs of EFI in our Stangs, are still afraid to tinker on anything but carbs. Nothing against carbs, I still play with em too, but EFI isn't really that complicated. Intimidating at first, but if you take the time to learn how it works, not really that much to it.
 
had an 89 5.0 swap using carb and now have an 89 with stock EFI... carb gives a very clean look and easy to swap to with the right parts, I used:

650 mech double pumper (don't remember the jetting)
RPM airgap intake
84 dizzy from an E150 van
Duraspark box
Accel coil
Holley red elect. fuel pump
in-line fuel filter

I dropped the tank and replaced the fuel pump with a stainless steel pipe, then I positioned the holley fuel pump on the metal bumper support and re-used the large fuel line to send the gas to the front

At front I replaced the dizzy but watchout because you may need to change the gear since flat tappet and roller cams require different dizzy gears (I was using a flat tappet cam from compcams so I put the dizzy in as -is)...

Put the duraspark in the, what would be, stock location and wired it up. If I remember you need two power sources from the body, one when the engine is starting and one with the engine running. You may choose to put a ballist resistor (??) like the stock pre-efi setups had.

I didn't have any heater or anything so I only ran a vacuum line to the brake booster and that was that. But with the heater, I guess you'd only need a small line to the body.

Of course I removed ALL the EFI wires and hid the remaining body wires for a clean setup... The car ran great and was a ton of fun.

Now that my 2md Mustang is 100% stock, I will maintain the EFI since it isn't super hard to work on and, well, I don't feel like swapping to carb anymore simply because I fear smog inspections which we will end up having in a couple of years...
 
I've considered going carb myself. Many people have done it and I've seen a lot of conversions that are reliable and look good. I've had pretty much every problem you can have with EFI. I have replaced pretty much every sensor, I have no vacuum leaks, every part on the engine is new and I still can't even get the thing to idle right, even after going through the checklist. It pops and stumbles, runs rich even after switching back to 24#'ers and feels like it misses half of the time. I've set the idle countless times, I have no codes and never have except O2 sensor codes, which are now new, I've tried custom chips (mail order but that's all that's available) and I've read all the books, including Probst. Sorry, just ranting...
 
I am considering a carburetor.

My EFI system is broken. I am not getting fuel. When my EFI was working it worked poorly. It would not idle cold and idled strangely when warm. I was thinking about bigger injectors, but carburetor jets are cheap. Ford sucks at making sensors! I work at a auto parts store. Ford owners tend to have more EFI issues, then owners of other types of vehicles. 5.0 magazine fetched a Mustang with a GM mass air sensor. 5.0 magazine also stated GM makes much beater mass air sensor then Ford.
 
jrichker said:
Once again, why?
Carbs are great for the track and make good power. For a strip only N/A car, they are hard to beat. Step on the pedal and flush - it's a gasoline toilet!

EFI RULES on the street for a car that is driven in all kinds of weather, up and down mountains and gets great gas mileage. EFI will make just as much power as a carb and be easier to drive on the street. If isn't hard to tune if you know what you are doing.

There isn't a carb made without computer assist that can do all those things as well as EFI can. The only possible exception would be the IDA or DCOE Webers which cost major $$$ - like $3000 for 4 each IDA 48's and a manifold.

Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by Charles Probst: ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $20 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select boo...ra charge. See [url]http://www.amazonhose.com for more information.

While you are at the electrical part, you'll need a Durspark or similar ignition system. The EFI ignition depends on the EFI sensors to advance the spark. Rip out the TPS and MAP/Baro sensors and the computer will have no idea of the proper ignition timing for best performance. Running a fixed timing setting is only for test purposes or for a race track only car. Don't try it on the street: the results will not be nearly as good as a properly setup Durspark or equal. Crane makes a really nice distributor for non-EFI applications. . See http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&lvl=4&prt=127 for more information.

He has this saved in Notepad on his computer and posts it on here in every one of these threads, its like clockwork......:) EFI is the way to go, but carb is simpler, and sometimes simpler IS better (depending on application of course)