I have a 86 Convertible. The front windows go up and down fine. I can't get the rear windows to bulge. I tried a extra motor and everything and still nothing. It seems like there is no power going to them. Is there some kind of relays I could check to make them work. Any suggestin is appreciated. Thanks
Convertible 1/4 Glass Problems
- Thread starter lgbnaf7
- Start date
- Jul 17, 2001
- 485
- 0
- 0
You can use voltage tester to see if there is a current.
Maybe both motors are burnt?
A rebuilt motor from NAPA is upwards of $70 so make sure you know it is dead before you buy a rebuilt one.
I ended up buying 2 new 1/4 window motors, plus a convertible motor.
Not cheap, but they work, and the dorky shark fins go down now...
Maybe both motors are burnt?
A rebuilt motor from NAPA is upwards of $70 so make sure you know it is dead before you buy a rebuilt one.
I ended up buying 2 new 1/4 window motors, plus a convertible motor.
Not cheap, but they work, and the dorky shark fins go down now...
Hence is right-on. If it's lke an aero fox, once you pull the 1/4 trim panel aside, you can see the motor and it's E-connector. Disconnect the connector and put your test light/meter on the prongs from the body and press the switch both ways.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Thanks. I was aware of bushings - do those fit vert rear window motors too? I thought I remembered someone saying that they didnt (for the price, I'd try it anyhow).billison said:
How about getting the race that sits under the bushings? Have you needed to source those?
PuterAmI
Member
I don't know if those work, but 50Resto says these do.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=LRS-WLK52 1&comp=LRS
Please remember that one bad switch in the rear ciruit, or a bad LOCKOUT switch could cause the same problem. Before buying motors, check the voltage at the connector as mentioned above. I first take off the cover and pull the switch and test there for voltage before pulling the panel just to see. If it's not there, it won't be at the motor, either.
Brushes are the most common to go on these. They use a copper braid to attach and the braid breaks at the brush. I found a set of brushes for an alterantor at Autozone that worked, but I had to cut them down a bit with sandpaper. Not a problem, but 50Resto now sells the brush kit for front or rear motors.
Grrrr.... I can't find them on their website anymore.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=LRS-WLK52 1&comp=LRS
Please remember that one bad switch in the rear ciruit, or a bad LOCKOUT switch could cause the same problem. Before buying motors, check the voltage at the connector as mentioned above. I first take off the cover and pull the switch and test there for voltage before pulling the panel just to see. If it's not there, it won't be at the motor, either.
Brushes are the most common to go on these. They use a copper braid to attach and the braid breaks at the brush. I found a set of brushes for an alterantor at Autozone that worked, but I had to cut them down a bit with sandpaper. Not a problem, but 50Resto now sells the brush kit for front or rear motors.
Grrrr.... I can't find them on their website anymore.
Thanks for the replies guys.
Puter - don't feel bad. I cant ever get LRS's search engine to work correctly - I have to hit the paper catalog to find what I'm lookin for.
Billison, thanks again. I figure there's about 2 dollars worth of parts in those motors that fail often (bushings, race and brushes). Too bad no one will make a little rebuild kit.
Puter - don't feel bad. I cant ever get LRS's search engine to work correctly - I have to hit the paper catalog to find what I'm lookin for.
Billison, thanks again. I figure there's about 2 dollars worth of parts in those motors that fail often (bushings, race and brushes). Too bad no one will make a little rebuild kit.
Similar threads
