I haven't been able to find a real simple/conclusive answer in the search engine to what I need to do to convert my mustang from manuel brakes to power. I want to switch my front brakes to the kit from diskbrakeswap.com. From what I've read all I have to do is change the mastercylinder to a dual with a power booster, then get a 68 brake pedal from MustangsPlus. ANY help would be GREATLY appreciated.
Converting 67 Brakes To Power HELP
- Thread starter 1966_Mustang
- Start date
reenmachine
20+ Year Stangneter 
Yes, you need the booster and a power brake pedal. Some (all?) boosters require you to modify the firewall by enlarging the pushrod opening upward and drilling a hole below this opening (there's a factory dimple there). The hole should already be in your pedal support to mount the new pedal to -- up high near the back. Also make sure that the pushrod coming out of the booster into your master cylinder engages the master cylinder properly. You want it to be in contact with the piston at rest, without pushing it at all. I have seen various lengths of this pushrod on aftermarket boosters and have had to adjust/modify it to work. If you communicate with whoever sells you the booster and they know what they are talking about it shouldn't be a problem.
70vert
New Member
Trans Am Racing's kit - keep manual pedal
Hey all,
What about this kit? I'm planning on keeping the manual pedal and just using this conversion kit:
http://transamracing.net/
Haven't heard anything bad about it, and I figure why go to the trouble of changing the pedals? This one also clears the shock tower no problem - I have heard conflicting reports on shock tower interference on '69-70 with a booster. With my Baer master cylinder, for example, I have read and seen photos that I would get interference with a normal booster . . .
Hey all,
What about this kit? I'm planning on keeping the manual pedal and just using this conversion kit:
http://transamracing.net/
Haven't heard anything bad about it, and I figure why go to the trouble of changing the pedals? This one also clears the shock tower no problem - I have heard conflicting reports on shock tower interference on '69-70 with a booster. With my Baer master cylinder, for example, I have read and seen photos that I would get interference with a normal booster . . .
reenmachine
20+ Year Stangneter
The reason that you change the pedal isn't because it won't hook up -- it will. It's because the leverage ratio is way wrong and you'll probably get a really touchy brake pedal. What do they say about this?70vert said:
70vert
New Member
They are not very good at updating their site, but a few VMFers are using their kit, no problem. It seems to have something to do with the "adjustable pedal arm", but I have an email in to them to get a more precise answer.
jerry S
New Member
I did a power brake conversion and I regret it. It still does not work right. If I had to do it all over again, I would have gone with a JMC dual MC for my 4 disk set up.
you know thats funny because i was just driving my dad's new chevy duramax diesel today, and ofcourse its got like hydralic brakes or something on it, and while using them im thinking "do i really need power brakes?" i mean i really dont mind pushing a little harder on the petal, but really is there any other positive to them other then just not having to push the brake a little harder?jerry S said:
70vert
New Member
"but really is there any other positive to them other than just not having to push the brake a little harder?"
There is reaction time - it's one thing to be able to push the brake a little harder, it's another to be able to push harder in the same amount of time as you could push an "easy" pedal.
Then, there's supposedly a lot of flex in the pedal box with manual disc brakes, and I'm pretty sure I can feel it with my manual brakes, Baer 13" front, drum rear . . .
There is reaction time - it's one thing to be able to push the brake a little harder, it's another to be able to push harder in the same amount of time as you could push an "easy" pedal.
Then, there's supposedly a lot of flex in the pedal box with manual disc brakes, and I'm pretty sure I can feel it with my manual brakes, Baer 13" front, drum rear . . .
chepsk8
Founding Member
jerry S
New Member
1966_Mustang said:
The same place where I got my not-so-great kit, www.mpbrakes.com
I filled in a form and told them I had a 1969 Mach 1 Mustang. I placed my order in early October 2004 and asked whether everything was in stock because my plan was to send this kit to my house in Michigan and have it waiting for me so I could mule everything back to Europe in my luggage when I returned from Thanksgiving. "No problem. Everything is in stock."
I get home in November only the booster isn't there. Notwithstanding their assurances that it was in stock when I placed my order, it was not. It did not get to my house in Michigan until January. I had to pay an additional $200 in overseas shipping and duty because of this. When I got the booster, it was the wrong one. It was a booster for a corvette, not a mustang, and it was absolutely impossible to make it fit. MPBrakes made me purchase a new booster and made me pay to ship this europe, promising to refund my money on the other one when I returned it. I had to pay an additional $200 to get this new booster to me here. Then there were the added costs from the mechanic who had taken the old parts off so he could install the new one only to have to reinstall the old stuff.
All in all, I spent an extra $1000 on this power brake fiasco on top of the $1000 I spent on the kit. And you know what? It still doesn't work 100% I have an electric vacuum pump that never shuts off.
This has turned out to be the absolute worst mod I ever did. I should have just got the JMC dual MC.
are you kidding me? you don't think you will push a soft pedal as much as a manual pedal in a short reaction time? why do you think people lock up brakes or get hit from behind all the time, because they slam on the brakes.
I have manual all discs, and it stops like a charm.just get a proportioning valve right and you will not be locking them up like those guys on the freeway.
I have manual all discs, and it stops like a charm.just get a proportioning valve right and you will not be locking them up like those guys on the freeway.
jerry S
New Member
1966_Mustang said:
If you buy local in the US and do it on a credit card, then you shouldn't have any issues. My problems are that they don't ship overseas so I had to have the stuff shipped twice; Once to MI and then again to the NL. As such, I could not force them to eat the overseas shipping charges. Also, my problems stem from when Carmen Anatasio was the owner. He sold the company. There used to be just one guy in tech support and you could never find him because he was busy like a Japanese Beaver. Now there are 3 guys in tech support. If you are overseas, I would never recommend them. If you are local AND buy on a credit card (so you can charge back if you have to), then you are ok.
70vert
New Member
I assume you were responding to my statement
I assume you were responding to my post . . .
let's say you've got two brake systems with equal stopping performance - let's say identical 13" disc brake systems, one manual and one power, same tire size, all else is equal, etc. Both systems have the same amount of potential stopping power when the pedal is pressed. Here's how I think they would behave differently, and how it feels to me on different cars I've driven:
1. The power brake system will be faster to engage and put a lot of stopping power in play quickly. This could be a bad thing, as you point out. (lock up brakes) The power brakes would keep pedal box flex from entering into it, and you wouldn't have to wait for your leg to build up the power.
2. The manual brake system would be easier to modulate in hard panic stops or in gradual increases of braking pressure, and might therefore be better in many cases.
3. All I'm saying, and would still say, is that the power brakes give you ultimately a faster initial engagement of the brakes - that's why we're all in danger of running into the idiots in new cars who slam on their new power ABS brakes HARD at the first sign of trouble . . .
I think we're in agreement, reading your first paragraph . . .
I assume you were responding to my post . . .
let's say you've got two brake systems with equal stopping performance - let's say identical 13" disc brake systems, one manual and one power, same tire size, all else is equal, etc. Both systems have the same amount of potential stopping power when the pedal is pressed. Here's how I think they would behave differently, and how it feels to me on different cars I've driven:
1. The power brake system will be faster to engage and put a lot of stopping power in play quickly. This could be a bad thing, as you point out. (lock up brakes) The power brakes would keep pedal box flex from entering into it, and you wouldn't have to wait for your leg to build up the power.
2. The manual brake system would be easier to modulate in hard panic stops or in gradual increases of braking pressure, and might therefore be better in many cases.
3. All I'm saying, and would still say, is that the power brakes give you ultimately a faster initial engagement of the brakes - that's why we're all in danger of running into the idiots in new cars who slam on their new power ABS brakes HARD at the first sign of trouble . . .
I think we're in agreement, reading your first paragraph . . .
rebel65 said:
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