For some reason my car keeps cooking starter solenoids... I'll go to start it and the starter will just keep running and I'll have to run out and disconnect the battery. I've gone through 3 partsource solenoids and 1 ford one. I figure before I get another one I should really fix the problem, any ideas?
Cooking starter solenoids
- Thread starter Kiknads
- Start date
Is the starter stock? Is it old? Does it crank well? Have you checked all the wiring to and from the starter especially the grounds? How about the wiring to the solenoid? Is the solenoid in it's stock location and are all the wire terminals in good shape? How many times does the engine crank over before it starts? How's your battery voltage? It could be lots of stuff. Many times it's due to low current somewhere in the circuit and you're basically 'welding' the contacts inside of the solenoid together. I hope this helps.. good luck.
The starter solenoid has two parts to the circuit.
1.) The high current part switches the battery power on to the starter. The switch is two copper contacts mounted on an iron core. It is controlled by the low current part.
2.) The low current part uses the relay or solenoid coil to create a electromagnet to pull the high current switch contacts closed. The small L shaped push on terminal is the input for power for the electromagnet. The power for the electromagnet starts with the keyswitch, then to the netural safety switch (Auto trans only) or the clutch safety switch (5 speed only) then to the solenoid or relay coil. See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80167163.gif or http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/16/71/3c/0900823d8016713c.jsp for wiring diagrams.
Nex time the starter will not stop turning, pull the L shaped push on connector off the screw post on the starter solenoid. If it quits cranking, the ignition switch is defective. There is a FREE recall for Mustang ignition switches that catch fire and burn up the wiring.
1.) The high current part switches the battery power on to the starter. The switch is two copper contacts mounted on an iron core. It is controlled by the low current part.
2.) The low current part uses the relay or solenoid coil to create a electromagnet to pull the high current switch contacts closed. The small L shaped push on terminal is the input for power for the electromagnet. The power for the electromagnet starts with the keyswitch, then to the netural safety switch (Auto trans only) or the clutch safety switch (5 speed only) then to the solenoid or relay coil. See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80167163.gif or http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/16/71/3c/0900823d8016713c.jsp for wiring diagrams.
Nex time the starter will not stop turning, pull the L shaped push on connector off the screw post on the starter solenoid. If it quits cranking, the ignition switch is defective. There is a FREE recall for Mustang ignition switches that catch fire and burn up the wiring.
I tried pulling the L shaped connector off the solenoid and that didnt do anything, it usually takes about 3 cranks to start the engine the battery is relatively new and tested fine at partsource. I think I'll try replacing the wiring now that I've looked at it, it doesnt look too good, anyone know the lengths of the wires?
If the starter is staying stuck and you have to turn off the battery, I would say replace your starter not the solenoid.
ok, im not sure what this means. JR's test is a great one for the solenoid and interlock devices. when the starter circuit was stuck (it kept cranking, even though you had released the key), and you removed the L shaped connector, per JR's instructions, the starter should stop. if it did not, i would suspect the solenoid again - sounds like it latched. (i am assuming you do not have a factory mini starter or starter with a piggyback solenoid).Kiknads said:
some folks have not had good luck at all with parts store solenoids. good luck.
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