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Coolant Temp/ pinging please help

  • Thread starter Thread starter saxman9801
  • Start date Start date Apr 28, 2004
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saxman9801

New Member
Jan 27, 2003
241
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Boise Idaho
Apr 28, 2004
#1
  • Apr 28, 2004
  • #1
OK my 95 GT is still pinging aside from the fuel pressure what else could it be, I have a 180 thermostat in it could this be creating the problem? The car always seems like it runs on the cold side even when it is hot out, could the Ect be sending a false reading thus causing a lean condition? Thanks for the help Dan
 
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Cobra351

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Mar 10, 2004
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Apr 28, 2004
#2
  • Apr 28, 2004
  • #2
Not sure, but I think that if the ECT was showing maybe a cold reading it would stay more rich. There was a thread not long ago of a guy changing his ACT sensor and it stopped his pinging.
 
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saxman9801

New Member
Jan 27, 2003
241
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Boise Idaho
Apr 28, 2004
#3
  • Apr 28, 2004
  • #3
I have already replaced the act and no difference, so i dunno what the deal is i was thinking of going back to the 195 theromstat and replacing the ect and see if that helps, before i dive into fuel related stuff. any more ideas would be great
 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2003
3,031
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58
Tucson, AZ
Apr 28, 2004
#4
  • Apr 28, 2004
  • #4
The cooler the engine runs, the less likely it will detonate. I have the same problem still. Here is what I have found.

I replaced spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, ECT, IAT. The vacuum gauge reads normal. My car runs inbetween the N and the O in "normal". I have ran "combustion chamber cleaner" through the vacuum lines.

Nothing has helped. Absolutely no changes.

I still need to hook up a fuel pressure gauge (to test fuel pump & regulator). That is my last hope. If the pressure is normal, I will think about taking it to a shop. Maybe the PIP module? Coil? That is about it! My MAF was replaced about a year ago (before I got the car, they installed a K & N filter, and the oil clogged the MAF sensor, so they replaced the MAF), so I ruled that out of the equation. But that may still be the problem.

Hook up a vacuum gauge and see what you read. I can't remember what mine read (19-25 psi????). But it was within spec (according to the haynes manual). It was also steady. Didn't fluctuate at all. If the vacuum drops suddenly, then goes back to normal, and so on, one of your cylinders is bad. If it does, PM me and I will tell you how to figure out which one is bad.

Hope this helps!
Scott
 

Zero Signal

Active Member
Feb 24, 2003
2,633
2
46
Tucson, AZ
Apr 28, 2004
#5
  • Apr 28, 2004
  • #5
Yeah I could never fix my pinging problem. Everytime I would 'fix' something, it would run well for a couple days then start pinging again.

The only way I could really get rid of the pinging was the tweecer.

I think the problem is in the MAF. I think it just gets old or something and stops reading properly. I fixed my pinging the second I richened the MAF cure by about 13%. it made a huge difference.
 

jmuva44

Founding Member
Nov 25, 2000
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36
Richmond, VA
Apr 28, 2004
#6
  • Apr 28, 2004
  • #6
One thing, the ACT and the ECT are different sensors. If you've replaced the ACT and its pinging, I highly suggest replacing the ECT sensor. This is located on top of your thermostat housing.

I've heard that our stock heads have a lot to do with our pinging problems. But unfortunatly I still have stock heads so I couldnt really say one way or the other. I've noticed a big difference since changing MAFs and I notice a difference when I get good gas vs. cheap gas.
 
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saxman9801

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Jan 27, 2003
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Boise Idaho
Apr 28, 2004
#7
  • Apr 28, 2004
  • #7
I will try replacing the ect as well it is cheap enough and could not hurt, and check the vac. pressure, what line did you use to get an accurate reading? I just want this to go away it is getting to be a pain in my ass something fierce thanks for the help Dan
 

HoofnIt

Founding Member
Jan 8, 2001
1,175
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36
North Carolina
Apr 28, 2004
#8
  • Apr 28, 2004
  • #8
I've replaced the ACT, ECT, cleaned my MAF and even checked the voltage to my injectors. It still pings, even with the timing set @ 6 degrees and running 91 octane (highest I can get.) I truly believe the problem is with the way Ford programmed the computer. It's a crappy tune. I've had 3 pre 94/95 5.0s and NEVER had a problem with detonation! I'm hoping the addition of aluminum heads will curb the problem until I can get a PMS or custom chip.
 

Slow5.0

Active Member
Feb 13, 2003
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46
Portland, OR
Apr 28, 2004
#9
  • Apr 28, 2004
  • #9
Cheappest way is go in RadioShack and buy one 22ohm resistor and take IAT conector off and put that resistor there , it works for me very well
 
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saxman9801

New Member
Jan 27, 2003
241
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Boise Idaho
Apr 29, 2004
#10
  • Apr 29, 2004
  • #10
Ya i already replaced the sensor it was cheap so i went that way instead of the resistor method, i don't get it i cannot hear it all the time, some times i hear it when it is cold other times i don't, all i know is it pisses me off and i want it to go away!!!!! thanks Dan
 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2003
3,031
2
58
Tucson, AZ
Apr 29, 2004
#11
  • Apr 29, 2004
  • #11
saxman9801 said:
I will try replacing the ect as well it is cheap enough and could not hurt, and check the vac. pressure, what line did you use to get an accurate reading? I just want this to go away it is getting to be a pain in my ass something fierce thanks for the help Dan
Click to expand...

I disconnected the line that went to the FPR. Anything that is hooked up the main tree at the intake manifold will work. I used the FPR line because it was the same diameter as the hose on the vacuum gauge.

I might try the 22k ohm resistor. I am so sick of detonation.
Scott
 
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