cooler damaged AODs ?

I have seen it when they are plumbed wrong, but the reduced life/failure is due to temp issues. In cold climates you need to use the rad as a thermostat otherwise it will never get to operating temp.

cold climites plumb the lines in this order: out of trans, into cooler, into rad, back into trans

hot climates plumb the lines in this order: out of trans, into rad, into cooler, back to trans.

just like anything else trans fluid needs to be at operating temp. I don't think a pressure drop (or at least a small one like plumbing in a cooler) on that circute of the trans should do anything. Some one should confurm, I have never really thought about it.

remeber an over heated auto trans will eat it's self alive
 
I have the B&M 19,000 GVW cooler on my car. I run into my radiator first then into my cooler and back to the trans. It has been on there for the past two years with no problem. I think an extra cooler is a great idea on any auto.
 
A stacked plate cooler is self-temp regulating.

It seems to me that the existing cooler/heat exchanger is on the low pressure side of things, and creates a pressure drop as it is.

Has anyone removed a trans cooler line and let it drain? That fluid is MOVING.
 
I've been running my cooler all by itself (not thru rad) for over 10 years on my summer driven only car and have never had a problem. And that is with a 3000 stall. I'm sure any pressure drop would be too small to cause failure. Trans was probably already damaged before they put the coolers on.
 
Good point there. I think sometimes people wait till it's to late then add a cooler to try and help an already wounded trans. And it just doesn't help at that point. Evryone I have ever spoken to in the trans rebuilding field always highly recomemnds adding and aux. cooler. They say it extends the life of a trans by a good bit.
 
Since I am using 3500 stall speed with a non lockup AOD, I needed 2 24,000 gvw B&M coolers. It is not driven in the Winter, and is not run through the radiator. They only side effects I have seen, is it must be given a few minutes the first use each day to get fully circulating since it takes time to get through the much longer route. If driven right after starting, it will not want to make the 1->2 shift. After a 2 minute idle time, it shifts great the rest of the day.
 
This seemed to be a problem with AODE and 4r70w trans, I hear, from the F150 board.

I have run external coolers on my C4 in my 79 since 1983 or so, since we used to tow Hobie Cats up and down I-10 in Mississippi and Florida. Put one on my C6 Bronco, ran it for 8 years towing stuff. My82 has one also.

No problem with any of them. I also have/had additional inline filters on all of these vehicles. That seems to help more than anything.

My current 97 F150 has only the factory tow stuff, so far, but no problem either.
 
rd said:
This seemed to be a problem with AODE and 4r70w trans, I hear, from the F150 board.

I have run external coolers on my C4 in my 79 since 1983 or so, since we used to tow Hobie Cats up and down I-10 in Mississippi and Florida. Put one on my C6 Bronco, ran it for 8 years towing stuff. My82 has one also.

No problem with any of them. I also have/had additional inline filters on all of these vehicles. That seems to help more than anything.

My current 97 F150 has only the factory tow stuff, so far, but no problem either.
What do you mean by in-line filters???
 
$uperstang said:
What do you mean by in-line filters???
Something along the lines of a Magnefine filter, or a dedicated set-up that uses an oil filter.

I have used the former but not the latter.
 
Thanks for pointing out the order of plumbing.

I always knew motor oil needs to be as close to operating temperature as possible or engine would take more wear. Never quite considered it for the automatic, since it always seemed to feel better when it was cold. Possibly because the fluid is thicker in the converter, making a "more solid" connection?



Another option I considered was to get a more efficient radiator. Mine does have a lot of deposits. Not sure why Ford Motorsport doesn't have an aluminum radiator, only a 3-core brass. I don't know how much better it is than stock. I'm assuming all 87-93 radiators were 2-core?