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Engine Cooling Questions before I dive in...

  • Thread starter Thread starter ArtscoolGT
  • Start date Start date Feb 1, 2019
A

ArtscoolGT

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Jan 14, 2019
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Feb 1, 2019
#1
  • Feb 1, 2019
  • #1
Cooling experts needed...

Hello, new to stangnet, finally have another stang in my garage, 1992 GT Convertible, original as it can be.

The car runs hot, meaning the temp is damn near HOT, noticed that when I bought it but didn't overheat, I have been trying to diagnose and fix the problem. New temp sensor to verify temp. New thermostat, nothing. Just swapped radiator and purged system... still running hot after about 15 minutes of driving it on the street. Gets hotter with more engine stress.

Before I dive into any further and change the water pump and probably break a bolt inside the block, should I check anything else?
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
Jan 4, 1985
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Feb 1, 2019
#2
  • Feb 1, 2019
  • #2
Why yes. You should find out what temp your cooling system is 'really' running at.

ArtscoolGT said:
The car runs hot, meaning the temp is damn near HOT
Click to expand...

This portion is only an indication that you need to check. OEM gauges are notoriously inaccurate and need to be verified.

You can check for leaks with virtually any air pump:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CfIo9niyXQ
 
D

DSB88GT

Active Member
Nov 6, 2016
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Feb 1, 2019
#3
  • Feb 1, 2019
  • #3
Is the air deflector in place under the radiator?
This aids in cooling and is an essential part.
 

fredfifty

5 Year Member
Nov 23, 2011
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Feb 1, 2019
#4
  • Feb 1, 2019
  • #4
thermostat in backwards? a 190 is good to use.
 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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#5
  • Feb 1, 2019
  • #5
You said "swapped" the radiator. Does that mean you put a new one in, or a used one?
 
A

ArtscoolGT

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Jan 14, 2019
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#6
  • Feb 2, 2019
  • #6
Thanks for the replies.
Yes, swapped the radiator for a new one. I got one similar to stock. I figured that the car being stock should be able to cool with a regular radiator and new cap. I also checked that the air reflector and side reflectors were on place as well.

I will do a pressure test and get the reading of the water but the engine and water in the top hose does feel very hot.
 
A

ArtscoolGT

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#7
  • Feb 2, 2019
  • #7
And I checked that the thermostat is in the correct direction, spring side to the block.
 

gearhead77

Active Member
Mar 13, 2019
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Mar 30, 2019
#8
  • Mar 30, 2019
  • #8
I’m new to wrenching on these too, mines an original 89 GT convertible that sat for a long time. That T-stat housing is a huge PITA to deal with. That lower bolt $&#%@!
 
A

ArtscoolGT

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Mar 30, 2019
#9
  • Mar 30, 2019
  • #9
Happy to report that, once the system was purged, the cooling issue is gone. I will most likely need to redo the water pump since it appears to be original and there are bearing metals traces in the coolant.
 
Reactions: General karthief

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
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Mar 30, 2019
#10
  • Mar 30, 2019
  • #10
start with the easy things first
get a Lisle funnel and burp all the air out of the system.- have the heat on and the fan on high to open the heater core
Make sure the hoses are not collapsed
When the car gets up to temp the thermostat should open and the coolant in the radiator drop
If you grab the upper hose you should feel it get hot, the lower hose should somewat cooler
Check for any leaks with a rented pressure tester at 16lbs
If using a stock fan, make sure the clutch is working properly,and is not leaking
make sure the overflow is working and the line not pinched
check the cap that it holds pressure

if it is overheating that quick it is probably air in the system or the waterpump is on its way out, the thermostat sticking, or the clutch fan not working
 
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