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  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

coupla question about engine removal ( 96 gt)

  • Thread starter Thread starter rockyracoon
  • Start date Start date Jan 8, 2010
R

rockyracoon

10 Year Member
Nov 23, 2005
874
27
49
margate NJ
Jan 8, 2010
#1
  • Jan 8, 2010
  • #1
first,where are the gnd straps?

2ND, how many bolts holding the A/C comp on 3 ?

3RD, I can only see 2 bolts holding the pwr steering pump on,and should I remove the pump completely from the engine compartment.

last.I would like to leave the automatic tranny in place and just remove the converter bolts,sound OK ?
 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician
Aug 14, 2009
5,892
514
204
Houston Texas
Jan 8, 2010
#2
  • Jan 8, 2010
  • #2
Ground strap: Left hand motor mount to car frame. See from below just on the frame rail just behind the battery.

AC compressor: From memory, I believe it is 4 (but it may be 3).

The power steering pump has 3 bolts. One is hard to access. Take off the small bracket that holds the high pressure hose on. You will see the bolt. A crows foot (or stubby wrench) helps. It is easier to access if the pulley is removed. Of course, removing the PS pulley needs a special tool (installing needs a different special tool).

The motor can be removed with the PS lines still attached. It saves some work but does get in the way. If you leave the PS pump in, use bailing wire to keep it out of the way.

Recommend to loosen the transmission rear mount. After the torque converter bolts are removed, slide the transmission straight back. Use a screw jack to support the transmission (important!). Also support the rear of the motor. Will make removal of the motor easier. But more importantly, it will make the reinstall easier.

Do not let the transmission lean down. If it does, the Torque Converter will fall out. Huge mess.

It may help the separation process to spray the motor/transmission alignment dowels pins at 10 and 2 o'clock.

Good luck.
 
R

rockyracoon

10 Year Member
Nov 23, 2005
874
27
49
margate NJ
Jan 8, 2010
#3
  • Jan 8, 2010
  • #3
does sliding the trans back require D/S removal?
 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician
Aug 14, 2009
5,892
514
204
Houston Texas
Jan 8, 2010
#4
  • Jan 8, 2010
  • #4
The transmission will move back on the slip yoke without having to disconnect the drive shaft. All you are really trying to do is to separate the engine transmission enough to disengage the TC pilot.

What this does is when re-installed, you do not have to struggle to align the engine, transmission, and motor mounts all at the same time.
 
R

rockyracoon

10 Year Member
Nov 23, 2005
874
27
49
margate NJ
Jan 8, 2010
#5
  • Jan 8, 2010
  • #5
OIC, thanks much
 
R

rockyracoon

10 Year Member
Nov 23, 2005
874
27
49
margate NJ
Jan 10, 2010
#6
  • Jan 10, 2010
  • #6
well I just finished removing the motor.What a PITA in my small garage. once I got the engine free and up as high as the ceiling would allow I had to jack the car off the ramps and then roll the car out of the garage,which was not easy as my driveway is inclined going towards the garage,my knees are killing me from pushing.I also put a bar across the tranny to keep it up in the front.Of course when I raised the motor up a ton of A/F came a rolling out onto the floor.next weekend I will start swapping stuff over to the PI motor.Im glad I took a bunch of pics with my digi camera as my memory is brutal.
 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician
Aug 14, 2009
5,892
514
204
Houston Texas
Jan 10, 2010
#7
  • Jan 10, 2010
  • #7
Glad to hear that you made some progress (even with bumbs in the road).

If automatic transmission fluid came out, then somehow the TC has off of the pump. Be sure that the TC is correctly re-seated on the pump before rejoining the motor/transmission.

Remember to only rotate the motor/transmission clockwise (as seen from the front crankshaft). If turned backwards, the TC will become disengaged from the pump.

Be sure to check the motor mounts before re-installing.

Consider new oil pan gaskets if any evidence of leaking. There will never be a better/easier chance to replace it. Also offers a chance to inspect/clean the oil sump of any debris.
 
R

rockyracoon

10 Year Member
Nov 23, 2005
874
27
49
margate NJ
Jan 10, 2010
#8
  • Jan 10, 2010
  • #8
no it was antifreeze that leaked out,probably just what was still in the motor,even though I drained it by removing the lower hose.

both motor mounts were trashed.

oil pan gasket seems to be fine.

debating wether to replace the rear main and the oil cooler seal.

between the price of the intake manni gaskets,the valve cover, ex manni and timing cover gaskets,plus the motor mounts and that pwr steering hose I fouled up it will be about $200.00,thats half the price I paid for the motor.
 

patman0911

Founding Member
Jun 5, 2002
2,287
0
46
Tuscaloosa, AL
Jan 10, 2010
#9
  • Jan 10, 2010
  • #9
There's still a good bit of water left in the motor after draining it from the lower hose. Now that you have it out of the car, you may actually be able to get to the drain holes on either side of the block.

Good job getting it out.
 
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