couple of questions...

[p.exeter_bleu]

im planning on going with a new cooling system(radiator, electric fan, and possible water pump) besides these parts themselves what else do i need, and do you guys have any installation tips, especially on the electric fan as far as wiring and whatnot, i also wanted to upgrade my alternator to the 3g alt, is there a kit online that has everything i need to install it? my car is a stock 89 gt. another huge question i have is about rolling the front fenders...HOW DO YOU DO IT? i've heard you guys mention it before but i want to know what exactly is involved in doing it, and what materials i may need to buy.

PLEASE HELP ME these questions have been on my mind for months now, it seems everytime i look up something and find a simple answer and im ready to rock, i see another post where all this other complex stuff is involved. i'm not gonna lie, im really new to the cooling system and electrical system.


o yeah one more thing...i have to jumpstart my car everytime and the battery is new, after i jump it and shut it off it will start, but by the next day it has no juice whats wrong?


once again thank you for any and all replies, and sorry for the long post.

 

[Michael Yount]

Use this device to control the fan - the wiring instructions are at the site, and included with the controller. It's head and shoulders above any other controller out there.

http://www.dccontrol.com/

 

[p.exeter_bleu]

what model of fan should i buy? what about all these jy electric fan installs i hear about?

 

[HISSIN50]

i will cover the one thing you did not ask: to take the kitchen sink with you, first remove...........

Michael's fan controller seems to be awesome, and is something i would use if i had an electric fan and i could afford it.

what fan to go with: depends upon who you ask. notable J/y units are: Mark VIII, Taurus fan from a 3.8L motor, SN95 fan.


alternator- check out PA Performance. they have the alt's and wiring kit you describe.
while doing all of that, i recommend a new thermostat (since you will have everything opened up). my favorite is a Mr. Gasket unit. 10 bucks, balanced, opens fully sooner than others, and has a bleed hole.

i would really recommend searching the threads in here. you will be reading for days. and there are tons of links in those posts about wiring stuff up and all.

good luck.

 

[Highbredcloud]

Out of curiosity...you do realize that for a good radiator it will cost you at elast $350...for a good waterpump at least $150 and for an electric fan at least $200...that's about $700 in cooling accessories themselves...not including instalation if you can't do that yourself...I would not bother with an electric fan since they cost more then they are worth...What you can do is invest in a good radiator such as a Fluidyne...they run about $350 if you get if from a good place...A water pump unless it is bad or unless you have under-drive pullies is not neccessary...You'd be surprised what a good radiator will do...

 

[Michael Yount]

Exeter - go to the link above as I mentioned - he sells fans and controllers together. I'd suggest you get something that will move at least 2800 cfm across the radiator.

As for costs - by the time you've bought quality relays and temp. switches and wired things up, the Delta controller isn't much more expensive; in fact, it cost less than my relay/switch set up for my dual fans. I guess I see the prices that Highbredcloud (howdy!) laid out a bit differently. I had my stock radiator re-cored by the local radiator shop with a contemporary 3-row 18 fin/inch copper core for about $200. There are multiple references in the threads to standard replacement radiators, or Ford Racing units for under $200. Sure, if you want a top-of-the-line Aluminum Griffin or Ultradyne unit, you'll pay more. But they're not required to keep one cool - just a lighter weight option. Actually, if all is equal in terms of size, rows and fin count, the copper/brass unit will provide more cooling capacity - it has better heat transfer characteristics than aluminum does. So, I'd allow $200 for a radiator, not $350. You might get by for $150 for a new one; or even $60-70 by having your local shop clean yours up. Water pumps - $150? Not sure what kind that would be - go to your local AutoZone or Napa store and buy a replacement water pump - mine was well under $50. They're more than capable of handling cooling chores. As for the fans - I've seen used prices under $100 for used MkVIII fans (some pay more); junkyard prices for Taurus and SN95 fans much less than that. All will move quite a bit of air. And at that price, even with the controller, I think they are well worth it - you're freeing up anywhere from 7 - 15HP; and providing better more stable cooling for your car. Don't forget to replace the t-stat while you're there - probably a 180F; don't go any cooler.

 

[Michael Yount]

BIG thumbs up for anything you get from PA-Performance; you pay a bit more perhaps, but it's worth it. All new stuff, quality cust. service; idiot proof instructions (I R A idiot) -- good stuff. Got my mini-starter and alternator from them.

 

[p.exeter_bleu]

i have my mr. G 180* thermo already but not installed, the reason i decided just to replace most of the cooling stuff is because im not sure what the previous owner did or didnt do to the car, as far as the radiator i know it will be a couple hundred dollars if i go new so i will definately look into getting my stock one redone, and an electric fan either way is a definite must as far as i'm concerned. thanks for the links. anyone have anything on rolling my front fenders? my 17x8 cobras rub them on turns, could it be that my suspension is just junk now, or do most people usually have to roll em? theyre not that big of a tire either 245/45 i beleive. thanks again keep em coming please.

 

[Michael Yount]

I've never rolled them on a STang, but I have on many other cars. The best/easiest approach I've used is to lay the small end of a baseball bat on the tire near the contact point. Have someone else crank the car and VERY slowly ease it forward while you let the tire 'roll' the bat into the tight area. The bat should roll with the tire and roll the fender back as it comes around. By using the tapered end of the bat, you can vary the tension on the fender. You don't want to do it all at once - insert so it just touches the tight spot, roll it, insert more of the bat, back up, roll it again, insert a bit more, roll forward, etc. That's the easiest method I've used and if you go slowly, you may not even have to paint the rolled lip.

 

[p.exeter_bleu]

we are talking about the inner fender splash guards right? or are u talking about the actual fender? im sorry if i used the wrong term.

 

[Michael Yount]

Nope - when you said 'roll the front fenders' I assumed you meant the lip. Sorry.

 

[p.exeter_bleu]

no my bad, what is wrong if its hitting the inners? is my suspension just worn out?

 

[HISSIN50]

for a rad, to augment what Guru said (if you are an idiot, im a slug).

you can get a 3 row Heavy duty unit from autozone or Pep Boys. costs around 130 bucks and works great. it is made by Modine or Go Dan, i cant remember (i think it is the former). if you search in here, you will find testimonial by many whom run them and are satisfied. plus lifetime warranty i think.

fans: many have gotten J/Y stuff for 25 bucks or so (not here; the inbred counter guy must think his parts are gold plated). mark 8 fans were 160 new last time i checked. i will use one of them or an SN95 unit.

im confused on the fender rolling, but there are links in stangnet, as well as many on the web, if you are so inclined.......

good luck with all your plans - in El Paso you need all the cooling help you can get!

 

[Michael Yount]

Is the car lowered and/or does it have wider than stock wheels and/or wider/taller tires than stock? All reasons for tires hitting the inner fenders. Has it been wrecked and repaired poorly?

 

[p.exeter_bleu]

im sure the suspension is stock, and the tires and rims are 17x8 cobras.

 

[Michael Yount]

"the tires and rims are 17x8 cobras"

Uh, that could be part of the reason for contact.....

 

[p.exeter_bleu]

i had mentioned that in an earlier reply, and i know some people run these rims up front with no problems. could it be my suspension is just shot and the springs and struts are sagging?

thanks again for all the replies, i'll probably end up with that AZ radiator.

 

[Michael Yount]

Sorry I missed that above - my bad. Yeah, the 245 tire is a full inch wider than the 225's that came stock. Combine that with tired springs that are allowing things to sag a bit, and stuff can contact where it shouldn't. Is it hitting on both sides? Only when you turn the wheel fully to one side or the other? Regarding your jump start question, something is clearly wrong. If the new battery is ok, then either the alternator is not charging properly, or you've got a short somewhere that is draining the battery. You'll have to dig in to the problem find out which it is. I'd have the alternator checked first - Sears, AutoZone will do it for free. If it's charging, you've got a short somewhere.

 

[p.exeter_bleu]

thanks for the help, ill go get the alt checked soon, i hope its just the alternator, because i know nothing about shorts and wiring. thanks again.

 

[RsStanG1987]

My car battery used to do the same thing as yours. A wire had a short in it and drained all the power out over night.