Crazy IDLE. NEED HELP!

Piston

Founding Member

Aug 1, 2001

215

0

0

Chicago Suburbs

Jun 14, 2004

#1

• Jun 14, 2004

• #1

Alright so I broke in my new 331 besides the idle surging at times it was mostly relatively calm. I was driving to my hockey game on the highway going 60mph for about 20 mins. Then I got on to a 50mph street and my check engine light came on. I then noticed that my car was idling at 3500 RPMs which it was set to idle about 1000rpm. I have an Anderson PMS and that gives me an error code for the MAF (E:2000). However I checked all the connections on it and it seems to be connected right. I have not physically pulled out the cold air kit since I have an anderson power pipe the maf is down in the wheel well and it's hard to get at so i just felt to see if all connections were made. Now the interesting thing is the car is idling at 3500rpms with the TB fully closed?!? Any ideas on what the problem is?

 

SCORPION

New Member

Mar 2, 2004

386

0

0

Seaford, DE

Jun 14, 2004

#2

• Jun 14, 2004

• #2

faulty Throttle Position Sensor?

 

Piston

Founding Member

Aug 1, 2001

215

0

0

Chicago Suburbs

Jun 14, 2004

#3

• Jun 14, 2004

• #3

For some reason I don't think that is the problem. The computer is telling me otherwise. The computer says "Missing Mass Air Signal" and it has a code for TPS signal and that's not popping up.

 

E

Eagle_5.4

New Member

Jun 14, 2004

5

0

0

Jun 14, 2004

#4

• Jun 14, 2004

• #4

Being that you got an error 2000 (which points to no MAF signal), I'd chase down the connector and test the wires out with a voltmeter to insure they are working properly.

You can find the Anderson PMS manual HERE!!!

 

E

Eagle_5.4

New Member

Jun 14, 2004

5

0

0

Jun 14, 2004

#5

• Jun 14, 2004

• #5

On second hand, perhaps you have incompatible muffler bearings or maybe your glove box is misaligned?

 

Piston

Founding Member

Aug 1, 2001

215

0

0

Chicago Suburbs

Jun 14, 2004

#6

• Jun 14, 2004

• #6

You know I did hear something about the muffler bearing being a problem. Thanks for the help.

 

Piston

Founding Member

Aug 1, 2001

215

0

0

Chicago Suburbs

Jun 14, 2004

#7

• Jun 14, 2004

• #7

I will check the connections today EAGLE MAN.

 

Piston

Founding Member

Aug 1, 2001

215

0

0

Chicago Suburbs

Jun 15, 2004

#8

• Jun 15, 2004

• #8

HELP

Alright I checked the wires they are fine. The idle acts no different. After reconnecting everything I started her up and the car idled at 1500 with the TB in the closed postion (Idle screw not touching the stop). Then I gave the car some gas to 2k it studdered a bit and it stayed at 2k and then I step a bit more on the gas and it went to 3k and stayed there till I killed it. I'm really fresh out of ideas on what the problem can be?

 

bmorrisj

Member

Sep 26, 2003

449

0

17

Buena Park, CA

Jun 15, 2004

#9

• Jun 15, 2004

• #9

vacuum leak?

 

Piston

Founding Member

Aug 1, 2001

215

0

0

Chicago Suburbs

Jun 15, 2004

#10

• Jun 15, 2004

• #10

I would think I would hear a leak specially at those RPM's? It would have to be a big leak right?

 

Piston

Founding Member

Aug 1, 2001

215

0

0

Chicago Suburbs

Jun 15, 2004

#11

• Jun 15, 2004

• #11

Should I start starting the car without the MAF plugged in to see if that changes the situation. Maybe that would help rule it out.

 

E

Eagle_5.4

New Member

Jun 14, 2004

5

0

0

Jun 15, 2004

#12

• Jun 15, 2004

• #12

#1. Call Anderson and get clarification on E#2000.
#2. Check for vacuum leaks with either a guage and/or a can of carb cleaner sprayed at all gaskets along the intake path.
#3. While you're talking to Rick, schedule time to get your motor tuned. I'm sure they will find the issue.
#4. Integrate your subframe connectors with your seats...

Da Eagle

 

Piston

Founding Member

Aug 1, 2001

215

0

0

Chicago Suburbs

Jun 15, 2004

#13

• Jun 15, 2004

• #13

What in the hell is the IAC motor. Rick seemed certain that is what broke. He says that's the only way the idle would be so high. Hmmm...

 

E

Eagle_5.4

New Member

Jun 14, 2004

5

0

0

Jun 15, 2004

#14

• Jun 15, 2004

• #14

IAC = Idle Air Control, all this nifty little job does is regulate a computer controlled vacuum leak. If its shot, or stuck in place, PRESTO - you have a vacuum leak. I am uncertain if you can take apart or even clean a Ford IAC.

Does anyone out there know if a 95 IAC is serviceable?

 

Piston

Founding Member

Aug 1, 2001

215

0

0

Chicago Suburbs

Jun 15, 2004

#15

• Jun 15, 2004

• #15

Eagle_5.4 said:

IAC = Idle Air Control, all this nifty little job does is regulate a computer controlled vacuum leak. If its shot, or stuck in place, PRESTO - you have a vacuum leak. I am uncertain if you can take apart or even clean a Ford IAC.

Does anyone out there know if a 95 IAC is serviceable?

Click to expand...

I was going to dump carb cleaner on mine. I heard that S|HT works on everything from this crazy hillbilly I know.

 

8

87'GTstang

New Member

Feb 16, 2004

1,025

0

0

Jun 15, 2004

#16

• Jun 15, 2004

• #16

Don't use carb cleaner, it destroys the valve due to the material it's made of. Use a milder solution

 

Piston

Founding Member

Aug 1, 2001

215

0

0

Chicago Suburbs

Jun 15, 2004

#17

• Jun 15, 2004

• #17

87'GTstang said:

Don't use carb cleaner, it destroys the valve due to the material it's made of. Use a milder solution

Click to expand...

What do you suggest? And thanks for the warning.

 

Piston

Founding Member

Aug 1, 2001

215

0

0

Chicago Suburbs

Jun 15, 2004

#18

• Jun 15, 2004

• #18

NO SOLUTION YET...

Alright went to Auto Zone bought a new IAC and installed it on the car here is what happened. I had the battery unhooked overnight hoping the computer would reset itself which it did or so I think. The TB idle control screw was basically removed and the TB is fully closed. Now I start the car and it idled at 1500 of the bat which was kinda high since the screw was out. Now it stayed there for a while then slowly rose up 300 rpms or so. Then I gave the car some gas and brought the car up to 3000rpms and car studdered on it's way up but then the idle stayed there. I was watching my pms and about after 30seconds the same error appeared. So this IAC didn't do anything for me. The next thing I did was unplug the maf completely from the harness that goes into the fender. Nothing changed the car acted completely the same. Strange I thought. Now the only other thing that has occured to me is that I never used a gasket between the 94/95 intake elbow and the RPMII intake. Instead I used clear rtv. The clear rtv still looks like it's good but I guess I can't say if it is or not. Would the couple of thermal cycles and heat in the engine bay kill this clear rtv seal? I can't really hear a leak there but it could be from below and I can't hear **** when the car is idling at 3000k it's a loud a$$ motha. I'm really confused what the problem is any help will be appreciated.

 

E

Eagle_5.4

New Member

Jun 14, 2004

5

0

0

Jun 16, 2004

#19

• Jun 16, 2004

• #19

Get the MAF checked to see if its still functioning properly. If the car runs the same without it connected at all, you either have a wiring problem from the ECM/PMS to the MAF, or the MAF is shot... IMO.

Your 2nd choice is to drop the coin for the tool for pulling codes from the factory computer.

 

ironheart1

New Member

Mar 13, 2004

131

0

0

Connecticut

Jun 16, 2004

#20

• Jun 16, 2004

• #20

:damnit:

Ugh... It sounds to me like you might need a new MAF sensor, if those symptoms are occuring and it is throwing that code at you still.. Tough to say, though.

Oh, and check your hyphenufenator valve. Sometimes that helps.