I installed 2" lowering Jamex Lowering springs on the rear of my car a few years ago. I never thought it sat right, and now that I put 28" tires on it the car has a rake look that I don't like! I want the rear to be about an 1" lower. How much should I cut out of the spring to achieve the height I want? Thanks!
Cutting Coil Springs....Need Help!!!!
- Thread starter aod92
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stang&2Birds
Founding Member
Are you serious?
On the slight chance that you have been on site since '05 and dare to seriously ask that type of question, then I'll be nice, and before the name calling starts, I'll say get the MM adj rear lower control arms.
Also, you either didn't have stock tires on the car before, or your math/measurement is wrong. The standard Stang tire diameter is ~25.7". So, a 28" tire is more than 2" higher than a standard diameter Stang tire. Also, I don't know where you got the idea that it makes sense to put a 28" tire on the back of a Stang. To lower the rear any more than 2", and you'll loose just about all bump travel. A stang that is really lowered 2" has very little bump travel left.
On the slight chance that you have been on site since '05 and dare to seriously ask that type of question, then I'll be nice, and before the name calling starts, I'll say get the MM adj rear lower control arms.
Also, you either didn't have stock tires on the car before, or your math/measurement is wrong. The standard Stang tire diameter is ~25.7". So, a 28" tire is more than 2" higher than a standard diameter Stang tire. Also, I don't know where you got the idea that it makes sense to put a 28" tire on the back of a Stang. To lower the rear any more than 2", and you'll loose just about all bump travel. A stang that is really lowered 2" has very little bump travel left.
I put 2" lowering springs on the car, but it never droped 2".....And whats wrong with a 28" tire on the back of a mustang? You act like its never been done before! The car has 15" drag lites on it so a 28" tire is completely normal for a drag racing set up! If your not going to help, stay the **** out of my thread!!!
DOn't cut springs. It ruins the spring rate.
But if you must, there is no set formula because each springs rate is different from set to set. Try 1/2 coil and go from there.
But if you must, there is no set formula because each springs rate is different from set to set. Try 1/2 coil and go from there.
skunk21
Active Member
I would stop cutting the springs, you are going to wreck the springs and the ride. I would get the mms adjustable rear arms like stang&2Birds suggested. They will allow you to lower the rear ride hight by 1" so you can adjust the height you want + you will get a much better control arm than stock. If you don't want to go this route then do as Mike stated 1/2 coil at a time, a full coil might be to much.
He is absolutely right: Don't cut springs because it ruins them by changing the spring rate. If the spring rate is way off, the shocks fight
the springs in controlling the rear axle. This makes the car's rear end dance around. A dancing rear end is WOW! on a hot girl but not on
a hot car.
Lowering a car after using a 2" lowering spring leaves you with almost no travel for the real axle to go upwards before it hits the bump
stop. Bang against the bump stop often enough and you will break something...
Jack up the car, put jackstands under the both sides of the rear axle so that both wheels are an equal height off the ground.
Then remove the rear wheel on either side. Measure the distance between the bump stop and the place on the axle where it hits.
The amount of travel you have left is minimal at best.
And he is being nice to you... I'm surprised he didn't blister the paint off you car...
He is absolutely right: Don't cut springs because it ruins them by changing the spring rate. If the spring rate is way off, the shocks fight
the springs in controlling the rear axle. This makes the car's rear end dance around. A dancing rear end is WOW! on a hot girl but not on
a hot car.
Lowering a car after using a 2" lowering spring leaves you with almost no travel for the real axle to go upwards before it hits the bump
stop. Bang against the bump stop often enough and you will break something...
Jack up the car, put jackstands under the both sides of the rear axle so that both wheels are an equal height off the ground.
Then remove the rear wheel on either side. Measure the distance between the bump stop and the place on the axle where it hits.
The amount of travel you have left is minimal at best.
And he is being nice to you... I'm surprised he didn't blister the paint off you car...
When I put the 2" lowering springs in the rear of the car, it only dropped maybe 1 inch. Thats why I wanted to cut them just a bit more to get the rearend down a bit more. Here's a couple of pics of how the car is sitting with the 2" lowering springs in it. There is no way it dropped 2"
Easy there killer.
My Capri does this. I hate it with a passion.
My Ex cut the springs years ago. The ride absolutely SUCKS! 
blackstangt
Member
COuld you possibly put harder or bigger springs in the front? It may ride high, but not uneven. I wouldn't drop the rear because it may rub the lip when you hit bumps.
blackstangt
Member
...or you could get the bullitt suspension kit like I did... It made my car ride higher in the front for some reason.
Or you could lighten the front with some aluminum heads if you don't have them already... A lot to change the ride height, but just trying to think outside the box.
Or you could lighten the front with some aluminum heads if you don't have them already... A lot to change the ride height, but just trying to think outside the box.
How can you tell with such a meaty tire on there?
If you cut your springs, you'll more than likely start whacking your tire into your fender well and possibly cut it.
Your car is a prime candidate for adjustable rear arms. You can adjust for larger wheels both up and down for when at the track and on the street.
For the amount of coin you have into your car, cutting springs is a hack way to achieve what you are looking for
Springs
As I mentioned previously, if you are running Isolators, first try removing them to drop the rear a touch.
If you are not running isolators or if that does not provide you with enough of a drop we need to take a look at the springs themselves.
1) Are they linear rate springs or progressive rate springs?
If they are progressive rate, end of discussion, you do NOT want to cut those.
If they are linear rate, keep reading.
2) What you are running for shocks?
You want a good quality shock. I always run Bilstein shocks and struts on my Stangs. Expensive but worth it and make a dramatic difference over cheaper brands. Anyone who has run them can attest to that.
I cut about half a coil off the stock linear springs on my Cobra and ran Bilstein shocks and struts on it. The roads around me are pretty bad and so I just wanted a very minor drop. It rode great, I am a bit of a suspension fanatic and I autocrossed that car quite a bit before I sold it. It stopped it from looking like an offroad vehicle and as I mentioned rode great.
There seems to be lots of misinformation on this subject. Take it from a guy who has been there and done it, as long as:
1) the springs are linear rate
2) you dont go nuts and hack off a coil and a half or something
3) use a cutoff wheel to cut, not a torch
4) you have good quality shocks
you will be fine and will not hurt your ride.
My opinion is that anyone who has cut linear rate springs and is unhappy with the ride either: cut off way too much or is running crappy and/or worn out shocks.
As I mentioned previously, if you are running Isolators, first try removing them to drop the rear a touch.
If you are not running isolators or if that does not provide you with enough of a drop we need to take a look at the springs themselves.
1) Are they linear rate springs or progressive rate springs?
If they are progressive rate, end of discussion, you do NOT want to cut those.
If they are linear rate, keep reading.
2) What you are running for shocks?
You want a good quality shock. I always run Bilstein shocks and struts on my Stangs. Expensive but worth it and make a dramatic difference over cheaper brands. Anyone who has run them can attest to that.
I cut about half a coil off the stock linear springs on my Cobra and ran Bilstein shocks and struts on it. The roads around me are pretty bad and so I just wanted a very minor drop. It rode great, I am a bit of a suspension fanatic and I autocrossed that car quite a bit before I sold it. It stopped it from looking like an offroad vehicle and as I mentioned rode great.
There seems to be lots of misinformation on this subject. Take it from a guy who has been there and done it, as long as:
1) the springs are linear rate
2) you dont go nuts and hack off a coil and a half or something
3) use a cutoff wheel to cut, not a torch
4) you have good quality shocks
you will be fine and will not hurt your ride.
My opinion is that anyone who has cut linear rate springs and is unhappy with the ride either: cut off way too much or is running crappy and/or worn out shocks.
skunk21
Active Member
The side wall of the tire you chose isn't helping either. even if you got it down another 1" going by the pics you are going to still have the rear up higher. going by the 1st pic you are real close to tire rub, look at the angle the rear sits at, to level her out you are going to have to stuff the tire up into the wheel well. coil overs or adjustable arms are going to help but you are still going to have issues, the only other cure for running a drag tire setup and stuffing meats under there and making it level would be tubs to stuff them up into the wells. good luck and hopefully you can work it out.
