cylinder head choices

BlackPearl955.0

BlackPearl955.0

New Member
Jun 8, 2007
126
1
0
Blashyrkh, Wisconsin
#1
ok any opinions for a N/A 347?
combustion chamber size?
I want higher compression (any recomendations?)
setup plan:D
Boss 347 stroker
Titanium pistons (dished, flat, domed?)
custom grind cam
Victor 5.0 intake
75mm tb
28oz balance
A 100-200 shot of nitrous as well
Goals:D
450fwhp
420fwtq or more
(without the spray)

The options:cool:

AFR 185's
Nitrous exaust port (Y/N)?
What size chamber... 58cc, 61cc
sporting 2.020 intake and 1.600 exhaust valves.
69cc exhaust ports.
185cc have available as an option nitrous or blower exhaust ports featuring a 75cc ultra high flowing exhaust port. With AFR’s trademark 3/4" thick head deck, it’s no problem handling that additional cylinder pressure. Each head is also drilled for the larger 1/2" head bolt hole for maximum head gasket retention as a standard feature of this serious race piece in street disguise. Springs are good to .550" lift.

FMS GT40Z's
Premium stainless steel 2.02" intake M-6507-A304 and 1.60" M-6505-B304 exhaust valves
Uses M-6513-BH Beehive style valve springs with machined retainers and machined valve locks. Most hydraulic cams can be used with these springs. 130lbs @ 1.800", 293lbs. @ 1.200" and CB @ 1.085"
Includes laser cut guide plates M-6566-Z304D for use with 5/16" pushrods and 7/16" rocker studs
Requires M-6564-F351 roller rocker arms (not included)

Trickflow TWISTED WEDGE TRACK HEAT
Twisted Wedge heads feature an exclusive combustion chamber design. The patented 61cc chambers feature rotated intake and exhaust valves moved over the center of the cylinder bores. As a result of optimizing the valve locations, valve angles, and combustion chamber shape, the Twisted Wedge heads use stock height exhaust ports without power loss.
The heads are machined for 2.02" intake/1.60" exhaust valves to build top end power without sacrificing bottom end torque. They don’t require flycut pistons for use with cams up to the specifications listed—no other 2.02"-valved head for small block Ford offers these features!
The Twisted Wedge heads are built for heavy duty use, too. They have .56" thick combustion chamber walls and fire deck for strength without compromising cooling capacity. Additional support risers are strategically located in the water jacket for additional rigidity and head gasket integrity.

Edlebrock Performer series
EDLEBROCK ALL NEW AND IMPROVED DESIGN FOR EVEN MORE HORSE-POWER these heads are stud mount No other engine part improves the 5.0 engine than a set of free flowing cylinder heads. They are critical because they contain intake and exhaust ports, as well as valves and combustion chambers, that effect air in (combustion mixture) and air out (exhaust gas). Improving exhaust flow is the key to unlocking a 5.0's potential as well as improving air flow in and the size and shape of the combustion chamber, this all adds up to one fact, after market cylinder heads will vastly improve horsepower and performance on any Mustang. We highly recommend the quality lightweight Edelbrock Performer aluminum cylinder heads, that are well machined and fully assembled with high quality components, they feature helicoiled threaded inserts along with phospor bronze valve guides. These heads also feature 2.02"intake and 1.60" exhaust valves with 60cc combustion chambers.Because of the 2.02" intake valve these heads are for use with aftermarket pistons that have been notched for valve clearance.

any other options you guys can think of?
any other info on these heads?
I like the FMS Z heads so far or the AFR's
:SNSign:
 
#2
Go with AFR 205cc heads and the nitrous port.:)

Ed Curtis sells the AFR heads and can set you up with his custom camshaft and valvetrain to match.

Titanium pistons? Why not a nice forged lightweight aluminum piston?
 
#6
I would say the AFR 205 or the newer larger CNC TFS heads or whatever they are called.

After having a buddy with a 347 and some TFS heads...you will never be able to tell me they are not a good head for a 347.

Either way 100% get a custom cam and talk with them as far as what intake combo to use as well. The big 3 cam guru's are Ed Curtis, Jay Allen, and Buddy Rawls (sp?)...all are VERY well known and VERY well respected guys.
 
#8
Depends on what your budget is. Sonny B. (sp?) makes a good crank along with COLA...then you have oliver rods and JE pistons along with many many others.

Eagle makes a good setup and I would pick that before scat IMHO.
 
#9
Yeah, for 450 HP you'll need AFR 205's, probably with the nitrous port. Hope you are willing to rev it a bit. I'm using a Scat forged crank with Mahle pistons (expensive bastards...) and 185's with an Ed C. cam and Cobra intake with port work. So far I have no solid numbers, it pissed some oil out the rear main on the dyno and slipped the clutch over 3900 RPM. We had 315 HP and 335 lbs torque at 3900 however and they were climbin'.. Peak should be just before 6K, so 345-350 RWHP on mine should be realistic.

My cam is mild on the duration side, and just over .600 lift on the intake... You will need way more than 230 duration IMHO to make the power you want.

Are you going with a 4.125 bore for 347 CI? I would have an engine builder look very close at the cylinder length on that Boss block before installing a 3.4" rotating assembly... Might wanna consider a Dart Sportsman setup from ADP..
 
#11
If it is a street car I'd pick the 185 which will carry more port velocity then the 205.... IF it is more of a race set-up and some rpm 7000+, the 205 hands down and with a 4cc flat top you'll have around 10.5:1, plus I'd internal balance it and go solid roller

Never seen a Ti piston, but they would be a FORTUNE.. Any good aftermarket forged 2618 alum piston will work just fine.

I also wouldn't use a BOSS block for a 3.4" stroke, the cylinders are a little shallow and pull the ring way to far down, use a DART Sportsman.
 
#12
OK looks like I misread the first post... flywheel HP, I thought you were looking for 450 at the wheels... 185's, a good intake (ask someone else, I'm stubborn and sticking to a Cobra) and most importantly, go custom on the cam. It's only 75 bucks or so more expensive for a custom from Ed C. compared to an off the shelf Comp grind, and would probably be the best seventy-five bucks you spend on the entire build.

One note: If you get the custom, decide on the combo for sure, get the cam delivered BEFORE you get the heads, the cam may be bigger than you expect, so you may need to change your valvespring package. I got a set of 185's from Keith Craft, then my custom cam came to .605 lift so we had to upgrade the spring package. I had anticipated less than .600 so that's what springs I had... lol. Dumb mistake on my part but was easily remedied.

Not to contradict myself, but the Boss Block cylinder thing came from a Mag, so take it at face value. I'd call ADP or get a good engine builder to check that out if I was planning to buy that setup personally. I don't think the shorter cylinder is much if any length difference compared to what is normally notched for a stroker anyway...
 
#14
SVTCobra306 said:
OK looks like I misread the first post... flywheel HP, I thought you were looking for 450 at the wheels... 185's, a good intake (ask someone else, I'm stubborn and sticking to a Cobra) and most importantly, go custom on the cam. It's only 75 bucks or so more expensive for a custom from Ed C. compared to an off the shelf Comp grind, and would probably be the best seventy-five bucks you spend on the entire build.

One note: If you get the custom, decide on the combo for sure, get the cam delivered BEFORE you get the heads, the cam may be bigger than you expect, so you may need to change your valvespring package. I got a set of 185's from Keith Craft, then my custom cam came to .605 lift so we had to upgrade the spring package. I had anticipated less than .600 so that's what springs I had... lol. Dumb mistake on my part but was easily remedied.
Not to contradict myself, but the Boss Block cylinder thing came from a Mag, so take it at face value. I'd call ADP or get a good engine builder to check that out if I was planning to buy that setup personally. I don't think the shorter cylinder is much if any length difference compared to what is normally notched for a stroker anyway...
Click to expand...

You may want to approach that differently.:)

The camshaft should be picked last. Pick your heads from Ed, or better yet, let him pick them. He will then set you up with a camshaft to match the engine.

Cam after heads, not heads after cam:nice:
 
#15
Read carefully... I recommended CHOOSING the head first, but find out the cam specs before ORDERING the heads because your valvetrain package may change when you find out the cam specs. By no means am I saying PICK the cam before the heads...

Of course, if the money is there you could also solve all of it by simply getting the heads and cam both at the same time from Ed.. :)
 
#16
You wrote...

get the cam delivered BEFORE you get the heads

That is why I took it as I did.

Your custom camshaft guy should tell you that a valvetrain upgrade will be needed.

Just in case there was any confusion, I was just stating that the camshaft should be the last part selected so it can be spec'd with all the parameters in mind.:)
 
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