Damn motor mount

5

5.0guy

Member

Apr 17, 2004

320

0

17

MI

Oct 10, 2004

#1

• Oct 10, 2004

• #1

What's the best way to get the driver's side motor mount unbolted from the k-frame? We already broke a flex handle(3/8) and a 3in extension(1/2). Think a universal joint would be the next best thing? Thanks

 

stang22

Active Member

Jan 29, 2003

1,318

7

38

Washington, D.C.

Oct 10, 2004

#2

• Oct 10, 2004

• #2

I used a 1/2" breaker bar from underneath the car with no problems.

Tim

 

5

5.0guy

Member

Apr 17, 2004

320

0

17

MI

Oct 10, 2004

#3

• Oct 10, 2004

• #3

well, we got the pass. side off no problem, but this driver's side one is like fused on to the k-frame or something

 

stang22

Active Member

Jan 29, 2003

1,318

7

38

Washington, D.C.

Oct 10, 2004

#4

• Oct 10, 2004

• #4

Are you using a breaker bar or something where you can get some good torque on it? Did you try spraying any WD-40 or anything like that on it?

Tim

 

5

5.0guy

Member

Apr 17, 2004

320

0

17

MI

Oct 10, 2004

#5

• Oct 10, 2004

• #5

yeah, we let some penetrating lube soak on there for a while. we used a breaker bar both times..it's on there so well that it twisted the drive part of the flex handle, and it completely broke the extension.

I think we'll throw some heat on it next time...

 

Attachments

• DSC04323.webp

  15.8 KB · Views: 183

93 teal terror

Founding Member

Jul 13, 2001

971

62

69

Durham N.C.

Oct 10, 2004

#6

• Oct 10, 2004

• #6

Holy crap....what brand is that tool?

 

5

5.0guy

Member

Apr 17, 2004

320

0

17

MI

Oct 10, 2004

#7

• Oct 10, 2004

• #7

Craftsman..good thing about their warranty. I think I was going at it at a weird angle. I heard a crack, and I thought it was the bolt breaking loose, then I went at it again and it broke completely off. Got a new one though, so I'm happy.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

33

129

Oct 10, 2004

#8

• Oct 10, 2004

• #8

PB and some heat sounds like a nice idea. if the mounts are not oem, some moron could have 'retapped' an SAE nut (or vice versa) onto the shank (some mounts come with SAE, some metric).
i cant remember if one can get a wheel onto the bolt/shank to grind it off (been too long since i did mounts).

good luck.

 

5

5.0guy

Member

Apr 17, 2004

320

0

17

MI

Oct 10, 2004

#9

• Oct 10, 2004

• #9

Funny you mentioned PB..little PB(I decided I'd bring some from home since it's good stuff) and a universal joint accompanied by a breaker bar did the trick. Yesterday when we were working on it, we noticed the driver's side motor mount was pretty bad. We figured if we kept jacking up the motor, it'd rip right out since the pass. side was out. We were wrong. Grade 8 doesn't mean a thing when there's that much pulling on it..

Other than that bolt, today went smoothly. The motor is out of the car and on the stand waiting for the intake to come off. Think we'll be able to replace the rear main easily enough while it's on the stand? It's getting some ES Poly mounts when it's reinstalled. You can have poly mounts and a poly trans mount, just not solid and solid, right? Thanks to all who helped.

 

Attachments

• DSC04342.webp

  16.9 KB · Views: 186

R

Ray@VSK

New Member

Aug 27, 2004

355

0

0

Oct 11, 2004

#10

• Oct 11, 2004

• #10

Hope you didn't go through all that just for a rear main ?

I just had to do my rear main yesterday, all I did was drop the h-pipe, trans, clutch & flywheel, then all you got to do is pry the old out & pop a new in, all in all it took me two evenings & I am done

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

33

129

Oct 11, 2004

#11

• Oct 11, 2004

• #11

right, poly on poly is alright. solid on solid can be harsh - solid motor mounts and an elastomer trans mount can work decently though. enjoy the new parts and good luck with the project.

 

5

5.0guy

Member

Apr 17, 2004

320

0

17

MI

Oct 11, 2004

#12

• Oct 11, 2004

• #12

Ray@VSK said:

Hope you didn't go through all that just for a rear main ?

I just had to do my rear main yesterday, all I did was drop the h-pipe, trans, clutch & flywheel, then all you got to do is pry the old out & pop a new in, all in all it took me two evenings & I am done

Click to expand...

Nah, we're doing some engine bay work(wire hiding, possibly painting) and it's gettin a blower and intake. Did you have to drop the pan when u replaced the rear main?

 

jwzg

Member

Apr 6, 2004

237

0

16

Prattville, AL

Oct 12, 2004

#13

• Oct 12, 2004

• #13

ES mounts are quite good, as I have the motor and tranny mounts. I did notice a bit more vibration in the 1500-2000 rpm range when cruising, probably due to driveline imbalance. It's magnified by the exhaust in my case. I think you'll be pleased.

 

R

Ray@VSK

New Member

Aug 27, 2004

355

0

0

Oct 12, 2004

#14

• Oct 12, 2004

• #14

5.0guy said:

Nah, we're doing some engine bay work(wire hiding, possibly painting) and it's gettin a blower and intake. Did you have to drop the pan when u replaced the rear main?

Click to expand...

Nope sure didn't