Dart Blocks

[hllon4whls]

Below is more of what I was talking about. They are from $1200-1700 . More expensive than I thought. I dont know if you can get them cheaper. Cost of steel probably drove the cost of the blocks up.


http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=6880

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=1927

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=2198

 

[FiveLtrRiceEatr]

You get what you pay for. this is so true. Next year when I put on a supercharger Im going to order a Dart block to put my 347 back into. Sometimes these motors take 6 moths or long to build, its better than rushing it to just drive it and having to redo it cause a person put some cheap **** into it.

yes you get what you pay for, I agree, but I'm working 2 jobs and I'm 16 and trying to afford all of this. I'm not rushing to drive it, I'm rebuilding my rear end so it can handle more power. I just cant afford this stuff

DSS uses a stock roller block.... The Boss block has 4 bolt mains. Two completely different pieces. Going cheap aint fast. If you want a big inchg stroker, the easiest and "cheapest" will be a 351 based piece, 393, 408 and so on. A 351 block shouldnt have any problems handling 600 horse

I dont want a big inch stroker. I was misled by Dart's site saying that they can be stroked to 450 ci. and I dont not want a 351w, I dont want to deal with making it fit and adding extra weight. I don't know what I'm going to do anymore I just dont have the money for a racing block....

Below is more of what I was talking about. They are from $1200-1700 . More expensive than I thought. I dont know if you can get them cheaper. Cost of steel probably drove the cost of the blocks up.


http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=6880

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=1927

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=2198

1200-1700, I dont have that kind of money to spend on a block! then it takes 1000 dollars worth of machine work. I guess I will just make something that makes like 400 hp I don't know because I dont want to spend all my money on somthing that will crack and destroy all my hard work and money.

 

[Rick 91GT]

The only similarity between a boss block and a DSS block is screw in freeze plugs, Big ****ing Deal.

The Sportsman 302 block is a waste IMO, they are not much better then a stock block. The 351 Sportsman is however a good block for the money.


It looks to me like you have 2 choices, build your combo on your budget and take a chance if you try to make a lot of power or BUY A AFTERMARKET BLOCK.


Your original question stated you wanted a 8.7" block, only way to get that is aftermarket. The Dart block machining including balancing the internal will only run $600. Think about your end goal, budget and come up with a plan. Don't build something so wild that if and when you break it you can't fix it. Your only 16, we all wanted 600HP then but we didn't realize all the $$$ that comes with it. You can build a healthy NA combo that will live for a long time and make 350RWHP+ and go deep 11's, on a stock block.

 

[FiveLtrRiceEatr]

The only similarity between a boss block and a DSS block is screw in freeze plugs, Big ****ing Deal.

The Sportsman 302 block is a waste IMO, they are not much better then a stock block. The 351 Sportsman is however a good block for the money.


It looks to me like you have 2 choices, build your combo on your budget and take a chance if you try to make a lot of power or BUY A AFTERMARKET BLOCK.


Your original question stated you wanted a 8.7" block, only way to get that is aftermarket. The Dart block machining including balancing the internal will only run $600. Think about your end goal, budget and come up with a plan. Don't build something so wild that if and when you break it you can't fix it. Your only 16, we all wanted 600HP then but we didn't realize all the $$$ that comes with it. You can build a healthy NA combo that will live for a long time and make 350RWHP+ and go deep 11's, on a stock block.

Yeah, I should just quit reading those magazines because they just seem to show you cheap ways that are very dangerous... Dart is out of the question now. I'll build something that wont stress my block its limits. but I want a new block so I can put the existing 5.0 in another stang (I'll rebuild it), because I'm using all new parts for the new engine I want to build. Are there any blocks that arent very expensive that are stroker clearenced to do this...I know of DSS but no one here seems to like them...

 

[giddyup306]

Are there any blocks that arent very expensive that are stroker clearenced to do this...I know of DSS but no one here seems to like them...

You can notch the block yourself. I use a die grinder.

 

[mackey]

DSS has good customer service from what I have heard. I have also heard good turnaround time. I believe their blocks are quality.. I don't remember how many bolts the main caps have...

 

[FiveLtrRiceEatr]

You can notch the block yourself. I use a die grinder.

Yeah, I know how to do that, I forgot I did that on my dad's 351w block,

so whats a cheaper block thats like 900-1100 range?

 

[hllon4whls]

The only similarity between a boss block and a DSS block is screw in freeze plugs, Big ****ing Deal.

Damn, rick. Please tell us how much you like the DSS blocks. Dont hold anything back.

 

[Rick 91GT]

You can get a 5.0/302 block from a junk yard or order a new one if someone still has them in stock. (SUMMIT RACING USE TO HAVE THEM, FORD RACING MAY STILL)

Clearancing for the stroker is easy to do if you have a die grinder. If you are not building the motor yourself you could let the machine shop mock it up and clearance it for you.

 

[Rick 91GT]

Damn, rick. Please tell us how much you like the DSS blocks. Dont hold anything back.

Those Level XX blocks make me laugh, yes the screw in freeze plugs help add a small amount of strength to the side of the block. It takes away the freeze plug principal though since it will not blow or pop out if the block/coolant freezes, it will just crack the block. All the CNC operations that they do most builders including myself do by hand when you blueprint a motor, destress all the edges, I modify oil passages, clearance it, etc... Now that chamfer at the top of the bore has me puzzled, I think they are trying to unshroud the valve a little more but I can not see it doing that much.

Good Marketing though........

 

[FiveLtrRiceEatr]

Those Level XX blocks make me laugh, yes the screw in freeze plugs help add a small amount of strength to the side of the block. It takes away the freeze plug principal though since it will not blow or pop out if the block/coolant freezes, it will just crack the block. All the CNC operations that they do most builders including myself do by hand when you blueprint a motor, destress all the edges, I modify oil passages, clearance it, etc... Now that chamfer at the top of the bore has me puzzled, I think they are trying to unshroud the valve a little more but I can not see it doing that much.

Good Marketing though........

Hmm, thanks for putting it that way. It seemed kind of fishy, but it got so much publicity that I thought it was good, but I now know its not. So I stock block can handle around 450 hp?

Because I'm thinking about a 347 (8:5:1 - 9:0:1) nitrous combo (not an insane shot 50-100?), with afr 185's or vic jr heads, comp cam, and an intake (not sure yet). Do you think that would be good, or would it stress the stock block to much?

 

[giddyup306]

Those Level XX blocks make me laugh, yes the screw in freeze plugs help add a small amount of strength to the side of the block. It takes away the freeze plug principal though since it will not blow or pop out if the block/coolant freezes, it will just crack the block.

Even if you have the brass press in style casting cores they it's still not a gamble I'd like to take. They are there to get the sand out of the block once it is cast not to prevent the block from cracking when it freezes.

 

[Rick 91GT]

Even if you have the brass press in style casting cores they it's still not a gamble I'd like to take. They are there to get the sand out of the block once it is cast not to prevent the block from cracking when it freezes.

I know the real reason they are there is to remove the sand however if one was to not have a good mix of anti-freeze the plugs USUALLY pop before cracking the block when the fluid freezes.

A word to the wise, do not run the Pet-Safe anti-freeze, it doesn't work very well....

How's things with your project? E-mail me...

 

[giddyup306]

I know the real reason they are there is to remove the sand however if one was to not have a good mix of anti-freeze the plugs USUALLY pop before cracking the block when the fluid freezes.

A word to the wise, do not run the Pet-Safe anti-freeze, it doesn't work very well....

How's things with your project? E-mail me...

I kinna figured you knew that. Just wanted to make sure that no one got the wrong impression about it. I'll send ya an email later.