Dayum... Make Me an 80mm and 90mm Version --- Why??? :cry:

[Noobz347]

I always figured that when somebody got around to reproducing these that they would make them... [Bigger]



View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQ84mUR75Tk

 

[rednotch]

3d printers.. Make one. Or bug someone until they do

 

[Noobz347]

3d printers.. Make one. Or bug someone until they do

Regular ole 3D print filament (PLA, Petg) wouldn't survive under the hood for very long. Even ABS might be questionable. It's not as rugged as injection mold ABS.

 

[rednotch]

3D printed parts have no business anywhere near a car. Let alone under the hood. They print toys, not useful car parts. I say that as somebody who's had a printer for over a decade and been active in the 3D printing community.

Then you shoukd know they actual use 3d printed parts in production all ready? Both polymer and metal. Your talking about an air box lid that sees no real heat, ABS-GF or PA-GF would work fine. The restoration market is what they banked on paying for the molds and making money and that's tiny, the market for one with performance improvements its way smaller, no ones going to pay to have molds made, someone in additive manufacturing might make a run or two if its worth it though. If 3d printing is good enough for f1 brake cooling ducts, I think a mustang air cleaner lid shouldn't be an issue.

 

[Noobz347]

Now, we could print one and use it to create a mold.


It would have to be two-sided though... Lots of work and high temp epoxy.

 

[rednotch]

Were you suggesting that OP runs out and buys a metal printing printer? Or that he runs out and gets buddy buddy with somebody on the F1 team who has access to a $75k printer and is willing to do a dozen hours worth of CAD work? Yeah. Thats realistic.

I think what you were actually suggesting was that the parts would be made on a printer somebody is likely to have at home. And those are the parts that are going to turn to slime when exposed to the heat of the engine bay.

ABS-GF or PA-GF Needs a 75k printer since when? you can scan the stock lid, all your changing is the outlet size, anyone printing GF should have at least a cheap scanner and is probably all ready doing way more complicated things. Melt from under hood temps sitting on the fender apron with air flowing threw it or the radiant heat when it's shut off? There alot more ppl printing stuff above the basic hobby level then just the guy who bought a cheap printer at home depot on sale, if you really want it, scan a stock lid or have some do it, make the changes you want, spend a few mins on Google and find out you can get prints done dirt cheap from China in both polymers and metal, same with cnc work. Just don't get mad when they start selling it. No ones going to make one because the return isn't there, so if you want one, ya gotta figure out how to get it and that would printing one...

 

[AeroCoupe]

Or just punt the stock air box and do a CAI....

 

[WhiteCobra95]

I always figured that when somebody got around to reproducing these that they would make them... [Bigger]

I LOVE this idea! I get it, fox bodies are starting to draw big money in original or restored form, and there might be a market for parts like this that were frequently deep-sixed as mod #1 back in the day. However, I'm guessing that a stock-like lid that supports an 80 mm or 90 mm MAF could be a bigger market than a factory replacement, especially given how small the original MAF really was. I guess I'm just a sucker for stock-like max performance mods, but this idea hits home, especially when a lot of the current CAI systems available are grossly over-priced and very poor quality. WE all know that it doesn't take much to get some noticable gains, and if you can do it while keeping a mostly factory appearance, even better! Pay attention here aftermarket folks - this could be a very lucrative suggestion! Hint! Hint!

 

[gkomo]

Since the outlet of the airbox top piece is where the hole exits towards the TB, I wonder if they can't go much bigger because from the video, the airbox top is already pretty close to the upper radiator hose. Enlarging that hole would only push the airbox top part even closer to the upper radiator hose. Just thinking out loud.

 

[Noobz347]

Since the outlet of the airbox top piece is where the hole exits towards the TB, I wonder if they can't go much bigger because from the video, the airbox top is already pretty close to the upper radiator hose. Enlarging that hole would only push the airbox top part even closer to the upper radiator hose. Just thinking out loud.

I think the entire box would be slightly [fatter] to accommodate the opening.

It should still take up the same 'footprint' though.

 

[rednotch]

The opening is 100% on the lid, you could scallop just the inlet section and clear it no problem, getting into the base you would be better off doing a full redesign of the whole airbox, air flow does not like 90* edges. I'd flow the base before anything though. 90mm is over kill for 95% of ppl who would have one in there car still, not many power adders us a stock air box on foxes, not many old fox intakes can support over 80mm and even mass air systems are losing out to SD in the aftermarket all ready as it is, so the market out side of restoration would be tiny. Talk someone like makers garage into it, but be ready for a stupid high selling cost.

 

[Noobz347]

The opening is 100% on the lid, you could scallop just the inlet section and clear it no problem, getting into the base you would be better off doing a full redesign of the whole airbox, air flow does not like 90* edges. I'd flow the base before anything though. 90mm is over kill for 95% of ppl who would have one in there car still, not many power adders us a stock air box on foxes, not many old fox intakes can support over 80mm and even mass air systems are losing out to SD in the aftermarket all ready as it is, so the market out side of restoration would be tiny. Talk someone like makers garage into it, but be ready for a stupid high selling cost.

These are all [good] reasons to do a 90mm version and be done with it.

SD or MAF or in my case, Kenne Bell... You can neck down into any MAF or TB you like.

The question then becomes about whether the OEM size filter panel becomes the restriction.

 

[rednotch]

Not the filter but the other half of the box feeding it would be my guess, that's easy to check on a positive displacement though, remember old nmra blower class cars using the cowl area to feed blower inlets, its because it showed gains. Your kind of ignoring how anal some of the restoration ppl are and demand for a product, there the ones after big money sales with B.S stories about cream puff cars and that's really who lmr is marketing these too.

I could have taken a trailer full of those, stock intakes and other take off parts for less than scrape value back when there was a speed shop in every other town working on these things. Craig at radical racing had 2 of them full of stock take off parts for years, I have a cpl stock boxes but no combos that would really use them other then on something close to stock or a positive displacement blower... If your really after making one, printing would be cheapest, after that find someone who does glass work. Injection molding is not cheap even from china and will have high MOQ's, that becomes an expensive lid and a long time to recoup an investment.

 

[Noobz347]

I wonder if any of the truck airboxes would work.