DCC fan controller not workin+other weird problem...

[Loco5.0]

I installed my DCC FK-35 fan controller today. I wired it up how the instructions instruct you to do.

I bought the car w/the dual electric fans already installed so I rerouted the ground wire to the ground points the controller specifies & the power wire how the controller specifies. Both fans were spliced together previously so I kept it that way.

The previous owner had the fans running all the time. They were wired via a single wire right to the key. Yes, wired to the steering column.

So I cut that wire & ran the power for the controller from that. I don't think it's a fault controller as I put the 13 & 14 pin jumper in for the fan to run at 10% to see if the controller works & it did, but the fans never come on when the car gets up to operating temp nor do they run at 50% when you turn the car on like the instructions say they will.

Now for the weird problem...my aftermarket gauges now stay lit even if I don't have the lights on. The gauge lighting is wired to the illumination wire on my head unit. I did not touch any other wiring other than the fan & the ingnition wire to the radio where I ran the ignition wire from the controller.

Anyone have any idea why the controller isn't working as it should & why my gauges are staying lit now?

 

[HISSIN50]

I'd get with Brian.

One issue that has popped up in the past with some dual fans (a la Ramchargers/Intrepid fans) are that the little motors have a huge start-up draw. In such an instance, the controller can see the huge draw as a short to ground and the controller obviously shuts down. Add to that, some of the dual fans have a cannister motor and a pancake motor (per pair of fans) and this can further create confusion at start-up.

If Brian thinks that's possible, a filter has worked in the past as a solution.

The fan comes on at 50% if the AC is on. It doesn't do this (if that AC input sees 12 volts)?

If that works but the fan doesnt come on naturally (at your target temp), check the 'couple's seated position.

Other thoughts. It's kinda important to have the power source for the controller be the battery, and have it pretty close to the fan itself.

With the controller acting up and the gauge lighting, I'd give the wiring inside the car one more once over just to be sure nothing was accidentally wired up incorrectly.

Good luck.

 

[Loco5.0]

I'd get with Brian.

One issue that has popped up in the past with some dual fans (a la Ramchargers/Intrepid fans) are that the little motors have a huge start-up draw. In such an instance, the controller can see the huge draw as a short to ground and the controller obviously shuts down. Add to that, some of the dual fans have a cannister motor and a pancake motor (per pair of fans) and this can further create confusion at start-up.

I have a pair of SPAL fans.

The fan comes on at 50% if the AC is on. It doesn't do this (if that AC input sees 12 volts)?

The car doesn't have AC.

Other thoughts. It's kinda important to have the power source for the controller be the battery, and have it pretty close to the fan itself.

The wires that are supposed to go to the battery are going there. The yellow wire is what I was talking about being run inside the car.

With the controller acting up and the gauge lighting, I'd give the wiring inside the car one more once over just to be sure nothing was accidentally wired up incorrectly.

Good luck.

I looked it over several times. The gauges were wired up at a previous time & the yellow wire from the controller (only wire going inside the car from it) is not connected to the gauge lighting wires. I even tried everything w/the yellow wire form the controller disconnected (since its optional anyway) & same result.

What do you mean by filter?

 

[HISSIN50]

The car doesn't have AC.

Connecting the wire to 12 volts is still helpful in testing. It gives a better idea of how the controller powers up the fans, and does so without needing temp probe input.

What do you mean by filter?

The controller monitors input voltage and a quick drop (caused by a large current-draw) is seen as a short. The filter deals with this phenomenon.