Debating between cable and hydraulic clutch

[tamadrummer88]

My shopping list for the T-5 swap is almost complete, I just need the crossmember and the clutch setup.

Im debating between cable and hydraulic. With hydraulic, the pedal feel is like shifting a toyota, but im not sure if the MC will fit beside a brake booster.

With cable, you dont have to drill holes in your firewall, and most new cable setups have a roller bearing in the clutch bracket for smoother operation and reduced pedal effort ( as seen on the Ron Morris website.) The only con is that, from what I heard, the cable in the casing tends to bind over time, making the clutch harder and harder to press.

So, the great debate is on: what do you think is good to go with: Cable or Hydraulic?




John

 

[SoCalCruising]

Great debate? Wishful thinking. The key for a cable clutch is to have stock exhaust manifolds or headers that allow the cable a straight shot to your bellhousing and clutch arm. Either type of clutch will require maintenance - cables wear out and so do master cylinders.

 

[tamadrummer88]

Great debate? Wishful thinking. The key for a cable clutch is to have stock exhaust manifolds or headers that allow the cable a straight shot to your bellhousing and clutch arm. Either type of clutch will require maintenance - cables wear out and so do master cylinders.

in your opinion, what would you go with?


John

 

[SoCalCruising]

I did go cable, but had to have two header tubes moved in order to get a straight shot at the bellhousing. Clutch action is fine. Several people on this board have hydraulic clutch setups and like them very much after they get them bled - bleeding seems to be a painstaking task for some. It wasn't a big deal when I replaced the master cylinder on my F250 clutch, but it may be unique to certain clutch systems.

I know one Mustang rebuilder (M-Detail in Riverside, CA)who swears by the z-bar, even with T-5 conversions. He uses a Centerforce clutch and his customers are happy with it.

It probably isn't a huge deal whatever you pick.

 

[blk 02]

I went cable on my t5 swap but i'm pretty sure i will go hydraulic when I pull out the engine to clean up the engine bay.... If your a DIY type of guy then check this out, looks like it you could save quite abit of money .....

http://midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/HYD%20Clutch.htm

Graham

 

[Cannoball888]

I have a cable. If I drive around the city all day it tires my leg out. If you've got the bucks I'd go hydraulic.

 

[blk 02]

I should of added that my cable clutch is easy to disengauge with my king cobra clutch but I don't like the cable being that close to the header.
Graham

 

[tamadrummer88]

Ive looked at the engine compartment of other 68's, and it looks like with a power booster its pretty tight if not impossible to run a hydraulic clutch setup (Im gonna run power brakes on my 68) Is there any way to mount the MC next to the booster?


John

 

[latamud]

I have cable in two cars and hydraulic in one. Cable is way cheaper. If you have money for hydraulic its nice but I don't notice a significant difference to jusify the difference in cost.

 

[tamadrummer88]

I have cable in two cars and hydraulic in one. Cable is way cheaper. If you have money for hydraulic its nice but I don't notice a significant difference to jusify the difference in cost.

I got the money to go either route, but if cable is just as good as hydraulic then mught as well go with cable. The only thing thats keeping me from hydraulic is if the master cylinder for the hydraulic will fit next to a brake booster.


John

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

The master cylinder fit perfectly on my 69 I don't know how different our firewalls are though. Me personally I would go with cable, I prefer the feel, and I absolutely hate bleeding the freaking hydraulic I have now. 300 miles and hundreds of bleeding sessions and it still isn't bled properly. Too much hassle for no reason, man up and go cable.

edit: Don't go with Ron Morris, the quadrant design that mustangsteve has setup is far superior.

 

[rbohm]

having driven cars with each type of clutch linkage, i can say that i prefer cable, then hydraulic, then the stock mechanical linkage. all three work well when properly setup though.

 

[Pathfinder65]

Hydraulic. Bled it once (took 10 minutes max, I don't understand the problems people are having) and it's worked flawless for 2 years. Easy on the leg in stop and go traffic, no header worries and no drilling holes through the firewall. Also, no unsightly cable snaking around the engine bay.

Dave

 

[Shakin66]

I have a strange combination (5.0 with old style bellhousing and a t-56 6speed) that required me to go with a Hyd. throw out bearing from Mcleod. I had no problems bleeding it down and the clearance at the firewall is tight but worked great. Its like driving my mini cooper, well except that its 400hp instead of 180hp and makes me .

 

[jcode68]

I went hydraulic and now that it is bled, I love it! Decision came down to header fitment for me. Plus I didn't like the way the cable systems bow out into the engine bay. I haven't driven a Toyota, so I can't make the comparison, but the feel is really good. Firm, but not stiff. I also want to put a power disc brak setup in my 68 and have posted questions about fit before, but I guess nobody has this combo because I never got a response to 100% confirm it will fit. Jay from Mustang Depot responded and said it should fit, that's about as confident response I got. Dimensionally, not sure how close the 67/68 and 69/70 models would be, but there are guys running this setup in their 69 without fitment problems. Would love to see a definitive answer on this myself as I am about ready to order the brake kit and need to know

 

[tamadrummer88]

I think I remember reading somewhere that so that master cylinder fits, you'd have to tilt the master cylinder when next to a brake booster.

funny thing is, im converting from automatic to standard.


John

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

The master cylinder fits perfectly on a 69. The reason I didn't go with cable is first because of header issues, and mostly because a quadrant would not fit in a 69-70 without contacting the cowl. I was not about to butcher the cowl, and risk rusting it out.

 

[tamadrummer88]

Very nice mach 1 you have there, i always liked the look of the 69 mustangs.


John

 

[180 Out]

If you have no power brake booster, the clutch MC will fit. If you have a '69-up and power brakes, the clutch MC will fit. If you have a '65-'66 and power brakes, you will have to use a bell-crank style booster, that lifts the booster/MC out of the way of the clutch MC. This style will also work with the '67-'68. The only fitment I'm unsure about is the '67-'68 with a non-bell-crank booster. You can always try it and either jettison the power brakes if it doesn't fit or buy the bell-crank booster.

Here's a pic of what I mean by "bell-crank booster":

This model is made by Scott Drake for the '65-'66 and goes for $410 at Mustang Depot Las Vegas. Notice the MC ports are on the engine side, so you'll have to bend new lines.

I believe Master Power Brakes also makes a bell-crank booster, and NPD seems to have a model too.

 

[Ronstang]

As far as the cables wearing out and needing maintenance....I have over 220K miles on a cable I have never touched. Do that with hydraullic. A properly set up cable is superior to a hydraulic in my opinion. I have never seen a cable break when installed properly. Let the cable touch a hot header and that is different. The best thing about a cable is you can have a spare if you like, as they are not expensive, and keep it in the trunk for long trips if you are concerned. If your hydraulic clutch takes a dump on a Saturday afternoon driving through Billings Montana you will become a resident of the state for a while locating a replacement part.....you can get a 5.0 replacement cable at any auto parts store.