Delayed Starting And Performance Fixed

[JD1964]

Some of you may have seen my other threads about suspected fuel starvation and delayed starting. I got the new fuel pump in and both issues are now fixed. The car is now running better than it ever has.

Thanks to everyone who posted on my threads to help with things.

I discovered some things along the way. Had a new regulator and pump on hand. I did the pump first and the car started quickly so I knew that issue was solved. But then the car started having a surging idle condition it had never had before. I hooked up a pressure gauge and the idle reading was 80psi. I thought it was the regulator so I changed it too but the pressure was still at 80psi causing idle surge. I eventually discovered that the return line in the engine compartment was kinked because the hose was on top of the steering rack boot instead of hanging down in front of it. Either I did that when I changed the rack or the alignment shop guy did. Who knows but its fixed now.

Furthermore, when I took the old pump out of the tank I found the S hose split open where it connects to the pump. Surely this had to be contributing to the loss of pressure that caused the performance issues.

Altogether I believe the pump was weak and on the way out from the beginning. Then, when my dufus ass, or the alignment shop guy, kinked the return line it caused excessive pressure which split the somewhat dry rotting S hose in the tank. The result was drastic drop in pressure and the performance issues.

Anyway, I have return line fixed and the Kirban regulator adjusted and now its a 39psi vac hose off at idle and 30psi with vac hose connected at idle. It runs frigging great!

Check out this picture of the S hose connection at the old fuel pump.

 

[Spaz]

Good info, I may need that in the future.

 

[JD1964]

Another thing -

The instructions that came with the Kirban regulator said to remove the TB to gain access to the regulator. All I did was move the salt/pepper connector, the throttle bracket and cable connection and EGR - TPS harnesses. That alone enabled me to get the job done. Twisted and contorted body positions sure, but got it done without removing the TB.

 

[mikestang63]

Glad you got it fixed. Those three allen head screws for the FPR under the rail are a PITA to remove with it attached, Of course they are installed upside down... I put some red loctite on those suckers so they don't backout.

 

[jrichker]

That metal clamp on the hose and it's proximity to the red power wire scares me. TWA Flight 800 (Boeing 747-131) blew up because of an electrical short circuit inside the fuel tank. I hope that your reassembly procedure included some heat shrink tubing on that electrical connection or a different style clamp that couldn't come in contact with the electrical connection.

 

[JD1964]

That metal clamp on the hose and it's proximity to the red power wire scares me. TWA Flight 800 (Boeing 747-131) blew up because of an electrical short circuit inside the fuel tank. I hope that your reassembly procedure included some heat shrink tubing on that electrical connection or a different style clamp that couldn't come in contact with the electrical connection.

The picture angle is confusing your perspective perhaps. There's a good 1/2" between any part of that clamp and the positive connector

 

[mikestang63]

The picture angle is confusing your perspective perhaps. There's a good 1/2" between any part of that clamp and the positive connector

Your life my friend. A piece of shrink wrap is $.10, One spike or short and that 1/2 inch gap could easily be bridged. That wiring is exposed to gas fumes.

 

[JD1964]

Your life my friend. A piece of shrink wrap is $.10, One spike or short and that 1/2 inch gap could easily be bridged. That wiring is exposed to gas fumes.

Furthermore, the clamp is isolated since its wrapped around a rubber hose. If a 1/2 inch gap is a concern, then the concern would be to the pump bracket itself. How would you prevent that? Shrink wrap aint gonna prevent an arc powerful enough to jump from the contact to the bracket. No way!

 

[JD1964]

What you see in the photo is exactly how the manufacturer, Ford Motor Company installed it when the car was built.

 

[jrichker]

My concern is that the hose clamp may loosen or the wire works it's way off the slip on connector. Then you have a potential for serious problems. A small piece of heat shrink would greatly reduce the possibility of a short circuit and be a neat and easy thing to do.

 

[JD1964]

My concern is that the hose clamp may loosen or the wire works it's way off the slip on connector. Then you have a potential for serious problems. A small piece of heat shrink would greatly reduce the possibility of a short circuit and be a neat and easy thing to do.

I'm not sure about the hose clamp coming loose but if it does the tail would retract and move away from the electrical connection.

As far as the spade connector coming loose, I intentionally reused it. The factory spade connector had a tiny tang bent outward that snaps into a little hole on the pump connection. In fact, I had to stab it with a tiny screwdriver while simultaneously pulling it off the pump to get it apart. It was a very positive connection and using it again was a no brainier in my opinion.

Additionally, submersed in fuel it's very unlikely to create any arching.

I like the discussion and realize I could be wrong. But I'm not loosing any sleep over my gas tank exploding.