Detailing Engine Mounts

G

geordie

Founding Member

May 10, 2002

576

2

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Sep 20, 2005

#1

• Sep 20, 2005

• #1

Having finished detailing my engine, I pulled out my almost new engine mounts and found that the steel parts were unpainted and covered with flash vulcanised rubber. My first thought was to remove as much of the flash as possible, leaving the vulcanized rubber mount between the upper and lower brackets, and respray the brackets. However at the rate I move this will probably take a week.

Has anyone successfully done this before? Will the effort be worth it in anyones opinion?

 

G

geordie

Founding Member

May 10, 2002

576

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Sep 21, 2005

#2

• Sep 21, 2005

• #2

Any thoughts guys, is trimming the excess rubber material going to weaken the mount?

 

M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.

Founding Member

Feb 26, 2002

2,976

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56

North Carolina

Sep 21, 2005

#3

• Sep 21, 2005

• #3

A couple of choices: (1) cut off flash, blast, and spray, or (2) pry it up, and spray. If you don't have access to a blast cabinet, use Eastwoods rust encapsulator. For future reference, any new uncoated part I get, I spray with clear to protect it. I have a master cylinder on my car that is ten yrs. old with no rust!!!! Of course, brake fluid will kill almost any coating but if you are careful removing the lid, it can be done.

 

Edbert

Founding Member

Jul 13, 2002

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109

Austin TX

Sep 21, 2005

#4

• Sep 21, 2005

• #4

I don't think removing the loose part will hurt anything but I have always left the part that did not peel right off in its place for the very reason you mentioned...being afraid of weakening the bond. The stock mounts are very weak to begin with so I would be wary of making them any more so.

What type of "detailing" are you looking for here? A concourse approach or jut trying to de-uglify it? For the best overall apearance I'd paint the whole thing black, if it ever starts to show age you can pull em back out and re-apply.

 

G

geordie

Founding Member

May 10, 2002

576

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Sep 21, 2005

#5

• Sep 21, 2005

• #5

Edbert said:

What type of "detailing" are you looking for here? A concourse approach or jut trying to de-uglify it?

Click to expand...

Thanks for the replies guys. I am looking to de-uglify it. My thoughts are to remove the excessive flash and paint the whole thing black. Maybe to mask off the remaining rubber block betweeen the two brackets.

 

HistoricMustang

Active Member

Apr 11, 2003

2,359

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46

Confederate States of America

Sep 21, 2005

#6

• Sep 21, 2005

• #6

geordie said:

Thanks for the replies guys. I am looking to de-uglify it. My thoughts are to remove the excessive flash and paint the whole thing black. Maybe to mask off the remaining rubber block betweeen the two brackets.

Click to expand...

Bingo! You have it figured out.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

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G

geordie

Founding Member

May 10, 2002

576

2

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Oct 11, 2005

#7

• Oct 11, 2005

• #7

Engine mounts have been tidied up and painted now. They are ready to be bolted to my 302 block with two bolts per engine side. These mounts are the type where to long bolt connecting the mount to the chassis will be horizontal with its axis along the length of the car.

My question is what is the torque for the mount to engine bolts?

 

G

geordie

Founding Member

May 10, 2002

576

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Oct 12, 2005

#8

• Oct 12, 2005

• #8

geordie said:

My question is what is the torque for the mount to engine bolts?

Click to expand...

Anybody know?

 

jcode68

Active Member

Jul 15, 2003

892

1

29

Massachussetts

Oct 12, 2005

#9

• Oct 12, 2005

• #9

According to my 1968 shop manual, the insulator to engine torque spec is 25-40 ft lbs for the 289/302 engines. Insulator to support bracket (horizontal bolt I am guessing) is specified at 35-50 ft lbs. Hope this helps.

 

G

geordie

Founding Member

May 10, 2002

576

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Oct 12, 2005

#10

• Oct 12, 2005

• #10

Thanks JCode 68