did h/c/i now wont idle

I just installed a set of AFRs and a trickflow stage 1 cam.

I had an idle problem for a week straight. Turns out you need to readjust your throttle plate with the screw and reset the TPS.

Go here and follow the instructions.



http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/idlereset.html




If you have the same cam I do then 900 RPM is going to be your new idle.

Did you plug the holes in the back of the heads for where the smog pump tube would be. If you have thoes unpluged its going to cause a major vac leak. You also are going to need to set your TPS and Throttle set screw which is under your throttle body.

I also forgot to tell you make sure you break the cam in.

Use the green & black wires when setting the TPS voltage. Anytime you change the idle screw settings, you change the TPS voltage setting.

Here’s a TPS tip I got from NoGo50…

When you installed the sensor make sure you place it on the peg right and then tighten it down properly. Loosen the back screw a tiny bit so the sensor can pivot and loosen the front screw enough so you can move it just a little in very small increments. I wouldn’t try to adjust it using marks. Set it at .97v-.99v, the closer to .99v the better. Just don’t go over .99, or you upset the fuel calibration and idle quality will suffer.

(copied from MustangMax, Glendale AZ)

1. Always adjust the TPS and Idle with the engine at operating temp. Dive it around for a bit if you can and get it nice and warm.

2. When you probe the leads of the TPS, do not use an engine ground, put the ground probe into the lead of the TPS. You should be connecting both meter probes to the TPS and not one to the TPS and the other to ground.

3. Always reset the computer whenever you adjust the TPS or clean/change any sensors. I just pull the battery lead for 10 minutes.

4. Check the procedure for your year, on my 90 I have to turn the idle screw until it just touches the tab, then insert a .010 feeler gauge and give it about one more turn. Then you adjust the TPS voltage to .98v, reset the computer. Start it up, if the idle is to low then turn the screw in until it is just right, then readjust the TPS voltage to .98v and reset the computer and start it up. The key is to adjust the TPS voltage and reset the computer whenever the idle screw is changed.

low5.0 said:

Ok I got I set the idle and tps and it doesnt die anymore. I broke in the cam for 20 min, fuel pressure is 40 and timing at 10 degrees. When I step on it the exhaust pops a couple of times.I had the timing at 14 at first then set it down to 10 and it got better. It doesnt seem up to power and the idle kind of hangs up high until I stop for a minute. Is there a problem with it or am I just expecting to much to soon.

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Mine is somewhat poping right now after I frist start the car and drive it alittle then it goes away. I just did the samething you did in July except I bought the Trick Flow Track Heat kit. I need a tune and I would guess you need one also. Drive the car around a couple days then see if you can get a dyno tune done to it. A dyno tune is whats going to get the most power out of the car and also be safe with the fuel pressure and everthing else.