disc brake conversion for 64-1/2 6 cylinder

cm409

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Nov 3, 2018
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hello
a few months back i posted asking for upgrade advice for my 64-1/2 6 cylinder convertible.
based on all the valuable input i received i decided to upgrade to disc fronts without power.

the car has 4 lug 14x5 rims which i believe are original
i began shopping for front disc brake conversion kits for 6 cylinders and i am finding the information confusing, vague and in some cases
contradictory concerning compatibility with OEM 14" rims.

for example
some vendors say "rims must be 14x6 or larger"
some say "rims must be 14x7 or larger"
CJ pony says "compatible with MOST 14' OEM" but does not offer details on the meaning of MOST

i checked with all of the top vendors and i am assuming all kits regardless of vendor are likely from the same manufacturer
(SSBC, wilwood etc)
i find help from the vendors is hit or miss, some sales reps are not that informed.

i would like to get this correct from the start.
i know this is a very popular upgrade so any advice that will help me get this correct will be appreciated

thanks
 
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cm409, the kit I used was from Summit I think and about $900.00, but I will check my receipts to be sure. It included all parts needed to convert to power front discs using the OEM 6-cylinder spindles with 4-bolt wheels. I did NOT install the power booster because I am the go-to-guy for the M6A page on facebook, and need to check compatibility with and without power. I am very pleased with the non-power system and I simply never used the booster...but I have it Just-In-Case! It worked fine on my 2,275 mile trip to Tennessee. The 4-lug wheels I use are from an on-line source out of California...15" chrome-reversed with bare centers, I painted. They are 6" wide front and 7" wide rears. The suspension parts are aftermarket POLY bushings except in the front strut. DO NOT use poly there! It is far too stiff and can break the strut when under stress. Use new rubber there. I installed a rear sway-bar with poly bushings and replaced the front bar bushings with poly, but did not go larger on the front bar. I am NOT going racing and I like comfort as well as control. Some argue against this but in turns with poly one feels every bump, dip, rock, imperfection in the turn, while the lighter bar allows some lean before this is felt...yet still helps handling. The 6 lighter weight simply does NOT need a bigger bar! Springs were upgraded to V8 stiffness (85lbs to 115lbs) and I have not replaced the spring-eye bushings, again for comfort. I also have those in poly and will probably replace them later, though poly there could add considerable stiffness. Maybe just on the shackle end...not sure. I had to use 1" lowering blocks after installing the stiff springs. Front springs on the 64.5/65/66 were the same for 6 and V8, so I used later front V8 coils from a 67 GT and cut 3/4 of one turn off. Gas shocks on all 4 corners, a Monte Carlo bar and export brace help force the suspension to work with no fender-flex. Over the years I built for racing and street and most early Mustang cars are drivers like me. Dallas Mustang rebuilt the OEM steering box and with theses changes I love the way it handles. Definitely rebuild the rear brakes when you install the discs. The 6 is a light car, so going with what others do, who own V8's, is often too much for us. With about 25/30 more HP than original, more torque and these improvements, I have shocked several V8 guys with how it corners. Once in the open...they are gone! However, when they stop for gas, I keep cruising.
The brake kit was from Summit, and the kit number is SSB-A120-5. My invoice shows $844.99 + tax of $52.82 and a total shipped to my house $897.81. This was shipped 2 years ago this month. Ball joints, idler arm, and other suspension pieces were ordered in August this year from NPD. A fan shroud is hard to find for the six but I got mine at MustangDepot.com for $79.99. The part number is C3DZ-8146-3. It was called a Performance Fan Shroud for 64 - 66 years. The poly bushings came from Dallas Mustang but are now available form most automotive stores. Good luck with your rebuild.
 

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thanks for such a detailed reply

my particular issue with the disc upgrade is that most all kits i see for sale specifically say the kit might not be compatible with original OEM 14" rims.
as far as i know my rims are original 14x5. this is where i am stuck

as far as the suspension rebuild goes i see many comprehensive kits on line but i am assuming all the bushings are rubber?
from what i gather you suggest the poly bushings can be simply purchased aftermarket correct?
that said are poly bushings a must or might i be satisfied with the rubber performance?
the vehicle will be used only as a summer weekend driver.

thanks
 
i just got off the phone with CJ pony
i was told that the OEM/original 4 lug 14" rims for a 64-1/2 6 cylinder with drum front brakes will not work with any front disc conversion kit because of the flat configuration of the back of the rim?

i am not prepared to upgrade to 5 lug all around so i suppose i will need to find a OEM style 14" 4 lug stamped Steele wheel which can accommodate the disc and the original hubcap.

any thoughts or ideas?
 
cm409, the info you have is wrong, at least from my checking before I bought my kit. The 4-lug conversion is not compatible with 13" (thirteen) wheels but they recommend 14" or larger. Your CJ Pony guy probably looked at the "will not work with stock 6-cylinder wheels" info for the kit. Remember, the stock 64.5 six cam with thirteen (13") wheels...stock. My 65 was built in June 65 with 14" wheels, and I went to 15" for better control and safety, not because the 14" wouldn't work. I also did not want to change to 5-lug wheels, and I spent many weeks searching for mine. Reread my previous post. Poly bushings can be purchased separately, and for your purposes rubber should work fine. Good Luck!
 
cm409, rbohm is right about scarebird.com, and it works, but machine work is often required. The kit from Summit is a "bolt-on" kit with all parts needed supplied.

all true, but when you add up the costs, the scarebird system comes out much cheaper. the brackets are around $150, the parts you have to buy can be had for about $250 if you shop well, and the machine work if necessary can be done for less than $150. cm409 you have to balance your budget with how much work you are willing to do, and how much time you have to invest in doing the swap.

if you have $900 upfront, getting the kit may be the best way to go. on the other hand, if you have the time, and lack the upfront money, you can buy the scarebird kit piece meal, and assemble it once you have all the pieces together. it gives you options.
 
i went direct to the source and called SSBC
i was told to use the fitment diagram they sent (see attached) to determine if my original rims will be compatible with their upgrade kit.
they say the critical measurement is from the center-line of the hub to the top of their
caliper (diagram says 5.79")
if the original rim is less than this you cant use this upgrade because it will rub.
i am still not sure how the depth/backspace will factor in.
the car is in my friends shop who will be helping me with this so at the moment i cant access the rim for measurement.
SSBC says their rotors are 10.25" DIA. and replacement pads can be purchased from any auto parts store.

did not want to get into the additional expense of replacing rims and tires, and upgrading to 5 lug is not a consideration.
as a last resort i would consider new 15" 4 lug rims but i have no idea whats available that will retain the "original look"
i would like to retain the period correct original look
i will have to measure carefully and keep researching and asking questions.

thanks for the scarebird tip rbohm, i will call and pick their brain also.
i am not rich but at the moment time and user friendly is of more importance than a few extra dollars.

see attached picture of my original wheel and the SSBC diagram
i will report other information as i learn
SSBC mustang disc conversion firment diagram.jpg
original wheel.jpg