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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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distributor gear

  • Thread starter Thread starter speedy66
  • Start date Start date Dec 24, 2003
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D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
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south louisiana
Jan 2, 2004
#21
  • Jan 2, 2004
  • #21
[/QUOTE]

Third, I've installed the distributor with Cyl.1 on TDC
+ 10° advance but no starting !
This is my first time about timing if you have any advice
about it...

When the engine start, I'll let you know about my gear...

Thank you,

And I wish you all HAPPY NEW YEAR ![/QUOTE]
From what I understand about the crankshaft postion when stabbing the dist in, sounds like you've got a good handle on how it's done. You may still be a tooth or so off still though. One way I've also done it is positioning the crank as you've done, then pulling the #1 plug wire and holding it close to a ground , using a phillips head screw driver or the plug itself ( out of the head) then turning the ignition on, and then rotate the distributor slowly back and forth, watching for the spark. When it sparks, your timing will be dead on the money. I would also re-examine the cam gear again, and while doing this, rotate the crank slowly, two full turns while looking at the cam gear in the dist hole , to make damn sure there's no damage there.
 
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gp001

Founding Member
Jun 30, 2001
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66
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Jan 2, 2004
#22
  • Jan 2, 2004
  • #22
Also, make sure you're at TDC on the compression stroke and not exhaust stroke
 
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66Stanger

New Member
Dec 30, 2003
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Jan 2, 2004
#23
  • Jan 2, 2004
  • #23
Distributor gear 3rd round

D.Hearne , gp001 ,

Thank you for fast reply.

I've checked again the cam, but no damage.

I'll buy a compressiometer to check compression stroke.
Do you PSI value on first cylinder ?

I'm not sure that the TDC is at 0 position on damper...
Thank you to my bad-expert from GT CLASSIC !

About HV oil pump, I've 75-80PSI @1500 RPM.
The same value of your FMS pump.

I let you know when my SB will start...

Buy
 

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gp001

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Jun 30, 2001
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66
So. Cal.
Jan 2, 2004
#24
  • Jan 2, 2004
  • #24
You have a compression meter, it's called your thumb . Press your thumb tightly over the #1 cyl spark plug hole. As the piston comes up on the comp stoke you will feel pressure build and push your thumb. If no pressure builds you are on the exhaust stroke. On the exhaust stroke the exhaust valve will be open and prevent pressure build. Once you find that you are on the right stroke place something into the spark plug hole to help find approx TDC. I like to use a piece of solid copper wire. MAKE SURE IT IS LONG ENOUGH NOT TO FALL INTO CYLINDER. I usually put a curled bend at the top to help prevent it from falling in. As you turn the motor by hand you will feel the piston push the wire up. Turn the motor slowly until you feel the wire start to head downward. Back the motor off to the point where it feels the piston changes direction. This should be approx TDC. Verify your dampner/pointer position. To put the distrib back in I like to use assembly lube on the gear.

Good Luck
 
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66Stanger

New Member
Dec 30, 2003
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Jan 3, 2004
#25
  • Jan 3, 2004
  • #25
Gear 4th round

Gp001,

Yes, this is not a bad method !

I'll try !

I think that you use KYB shock, what do you think about it ?
I use Koni Special (stock Shelby) and it's very hard and unconfotable !


Thanks.

Do you see the files attached on pervious message ?
What do you think about strippe ? Only one side is stripped !

Bye !
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
6
0
south louisiana
Jan 3, 2004
#26
  • Jan 3, 2004
  • #26
One question for you, 66Stanger: Is the cam retainer plate that holds the cam in the block , present? The reason I ask is, I made this mistake last year with the 400M in my kid's 77 pickup. I had pulled the built 400 out of it to sell the truck and stuck the 400 that was in the truck when I bought it back in. I had pulled the heads and swapped the timing set 10 months or so previously but hadn't finished assembling it when I got side tracked by another project. When I finished assembling it after a 10 month break, I didn't go back and double check my work. The cam retainer was absent. When we fired it up it ran fine, till he got 5 miles down the road, then it just quit. The dist froze and the gear was broken when I pulled it out. I put another dist in, and this one too lasted a few miles. This time I pulled the water pump and timing cover off and that's when I discovered that I hadn't put the cam retainer plate in. It ruined the cam, wiping a couple of lobes and broke the dist. drive gear. I replaced the cam, retainer plate, dist and never had another problem with it after that.
 
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gp001

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66
So. Cal.
Jan 3, 2004
#27
  • Jan 3, 2004
  • #27
66Stanger said:
Gp001,

Yes, this is not a bad method !

I'll try !

I think that you use KYB shock, what do you think about it ?
I use Koni Special (stock Shelby) and it's very hard and unconfotable !


Thanks.

Do you see the files attached on pervious message ?
What do you think about strippe ? Only one side is stripped !

Bye !
Click to expand...

The shocks are OK, but I am going to a coil over setup soon.

I do see the attached pictures. It is hard to tell, but are you sure it is a steel gear and not a cast iron gear? The way just a few of the teeth appear to have "snapped" off while the rest of the gear seems Ok bothers me. Especially since you say the cam gear appears to be fine. Double check that the gear is steel and not cast iron. The FMS part # you referenced is for a steel gear for roller cam, but I would think there would be some good damage to the cam gear to produce snapped off teeth like that.
 
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