Distributors

95BLKGT5.0

Founding Member
Mar 18, 2002
608
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16
Auburn Washington
Distributor opotions?

My car cuts out every now and then so I replaced the coil and check all the ground wires but still cuts out so I think the PIP is going bad. There are 122000 miles on the distributor so I think the best thing to do would be to get a new distributor.

What good Distributors and price are there.
I plan on rebuilding the motor next year.
 
Stock Ford unit....MSD makes one that fails often enough to make me not even consider it. Some have had no problems but there are other who are on there 2nd and 3rd ones from sudden failure. I think performance distributors (they make Live wires) make a 94/95 unit but haven't heard anything about them.

Well Danny :D

They don't call that company :nono:

Mignt Suddenly Die

for nothing :)

Grady
 
If you get one from the parts store, it will probably be reman'd. When they take in cores, if the old PIP tests ok (wanna take bets how thoroughly it's tested?), they often leave it on there. If a new PIP is installed, they often will not take the time to line up the holes for the roll pin. They punch a new hole instead. So a tell is to see if there's a blank hole in the dizzy shaft. If so, the chances of it having a new PIP are decent.

Good luck.
 
I got a reman last month, and now the car runs better than ever. Timing is set the same as before (~12*) and now I can run 87-octane without pinging. It used to ping quite often with 94 in it, and to top it off I now manage 26-27mpg on the highway :nice:
Only bad part is that they didn't put a heat shield over the PIP wires coming out of the dizzy, so they're just bare at the moment.
 
distributor

Hello, I had the same problem. Car would die for no reason; stoplight, normal driving, or full throtle. It wouldn't do it all the time though. Changed fuel filter, fuel pump, cap and rotor but none of those changes fixed it. Then changed the distributor, runs great now. Like the previous reply, it also fixed my detonation problem with lower octane gas, for a while. But overall, its alot better. An OEM could be had for $80 or so. Or you could replace the stator assembly thats on the distibutor. Thats probably the part that is bad. That part is $20 or so.
 
Just bought a reman from O'Reilys myself due to a bushing that died in mine at 157,000 miles. The damn thing died on me this morning on the interstate with 15 miles on the new one. PIP sensor went out. I had to get a ride back home and get my buddy and my truck to tow my car off the interstate. I put the old dizzy back in and it started right up. Lets just say that I will be have a few "choice" words with the auto parts store.
 
If you get one from the parts store, it will probably be reman'd. When they take in cores, if the old PIP tests ok (wanna take bets how thoroughly it's tested?), they often leave it on there. If a new PIP is installed, they often will not take the time to line up the holes for the roll pin. They punch a new hole instead. So a tell is to see if there's a blank hole in the dizzy shaft. If so, the chances of it having a new PIP are decent.

Good luck.

I put a remaned dizzy in my 95, but my engine would still randomly die. It ended up being the TFI module (TFI=thick film ignition), located on the passenger side inner fender under the MAF. Might want to get it checked out.
 
I put a remaned dizzy in my 95, but my engine would still randomly die. It ended up being the TFI module (TFI=thick film ignition), located on the passenger side inner fender under the MAF. Might want to get it checked out.

And you are who? :p :cheers:

Wade brings a good point. This is where some differential testing can help.
 
When my original stock distributor gave up the ghost in my '94 GT the rotor hit the cap and the innards all broke up into pieces. When I pulled off the highway (rolled off the highway actually) I came to a stop on a side street so I hopped out and took a look under the car and my cats were glowing bright orange. I have a re-mfg. unit in there now.
 
I might also note that when my PIP went, the car just bogged a couple times then died completely, never to be resurrected. It would not start the next day either after a complete cool-down. As for TFI modules going, I have seen them die then work again once they had cooled-off. A good check for this is to look for injector pulsing when the car dies and won't fire. That will distinguish the problem from being PIP or TFI related, or even something else.
 
Well I got a reman dizzy and timed it with the spout out @10deg.
Ran Great and did not miss a beat. The next day it did not want to start right away, It cranked and cranked then I stopped turned the key again and it started fine. then this morning it would not start just keep cranking over but would not start.:shrug:
 
Thank you HISSIN50 for the info on the dizzy. At the NAPA parts store I looked through 5 boxes and of the 5, 3 were the wrong dizzy but labeled as a 95 Mustang the other 2 didn't have the extra hole drilled. So they had the wearehouse look through all theres and shipped me one.
 
5.0kit2.jpg

This is the ingnition kit I have




5.0 Dyna-Mod

The 5.0 Dyna-Mod has more electronic dwell in it over a stock module to provide more coil saturation time. This extra dwell time allows the coil to produce a more intense spark. Improves throttle response and low end power. Mounts in the original factory location without any modifications.
Part #000555 (84-93) $69.95
Part #X000555 (94-95) $69.95
Screamin' Demon Coil

Open up spark plug gaps to a whopping .060" with the Screamin' Demon coil. No drop off in power as RPM's increase. The coil has a brass terminal, rather than aluminum, which provides better conductivity and will resist corrosion longer. This coil is too "hot" for stock plug wires.
Part #31724 $69.95
5.0 Cap and Rotor

Super conductive brass terminals deliver ALL of the spark to the plugs. Excellent dielectric strength resists carbon tracking. Available in red or blue. Part #34100 $35.00

Livewires
 
I bought my msd 3-4 yrs ago when I did my motor....it still runs great. However theres no benifit except it looks pretty.:rolleyes: I guess I lucked out that mine still works good. If this one goes I will prolly try a performance distributors one as a new ford one is pretty pricey too. I think I will stay away from reman. ones all together.
 
Mallory might make one... I don't buy anything MSD anymore.

I work at an auto parts store and MSD/Superchips have it set up so we CANNOT sell any of their products below MSRP.
Normally dealers, employees, and my select friends get a "Jobber" or a better price that our warehouse/supplier buys the product for. MSD/Superchips does not allow this.

So for now on, they don't support me--I don't support them.

I won't even suggest their product to anyone, nor will anyone I work with. If someone looks at a 6AL or 6A, etc... Product by them I tell them that their product will fail out of nowhere, their warrenty process sucks, and that they can get a better product for a fraction of the cost.
 
I currently need a new distributor. My MSD has a bad stator/PIP/pickup/hall effect (whatever it's called now). It began its demise back in August 07 (misfires). Car sat for a minute and now it's gone. Car starts then immediately dies. Checked ignition system and no sighal to PIP from stator. Sad thing is I only have maybe between 1K-1.5K miles on the distributor - if that - as I only drive the car on the weekend occassionally. The MSD 6AL is hanging in there though (over 10 yrs.)

I understand the stock is good for N/A but is it a good idea to go aftermarket if running 150 shot of N20. Plus, I was just quoted $440 for a stock distributor.:bs: Hell aftermarket is cheaper now. So now I think Ford's pricing is forcing aftermaket purchases. Plus based on Hissin observations, the reman can be just as troublesome.

So what'ya think - aftermarket for 150 shot of N20


Thanks