ditching a/c and smog pump, need help!!

I replied to you on the corral as well.

Well for the A/c, I unhooked everything in the engine bay...more like cut everything in the engine bay. You just need that tool to disconnect gas lines. I just didnt have it and didnt care about keeping the A/C. There's like a little rad in front or behind your main radiator. It is related to the A/C and you can take it off as well. There'S stuff inside the dash as well but I didnt bother yet to get it out.

When I took the EGR off for my longtubes, I didnt get a code but most people do. It doesnt improve anything but it clears the way a little. Air pump holds by a few bolts. Easy to take off. You'll need to block the hole to your H-Pipe and remove that piping now that you wont have the air-pump anymore. You'll have to buy or build a EGR b-off plate, to block the holes in the ELBOW of the upper intake. In your EGR "shell" plastic box, there's a little "pin" that you'll need to push half-way in, so that it STAYS half-way in. Apparently this is the key to not have a code. Once this is done, you just throw that sensor somewhere in the back of the engine. If you have a a Tweecer or EEC tuner, you can delete this option and just disconnect the whole sensor.
There's 2 vacuums that you'll need to block, if I remember correctly. The one that goes in the EGR and the one that goes to the air pump. Put a small nail or screw in it with some silicone. Make sure its not small enough to fall in the vacuum. The "HEAD" needs to hold it out.

As far as the belt size, you'll have to buy a few and work your way in. I'm using Mac alternator and crank pulleys. I kept my stock waterpump pulley. Mac's just too dam big compare to the other aftermarket and with my new routing, it was gonna hit. I'm using a 79in belt. For the track, I'll be using a 57.8in belt.

Here's the routings. Hope this helped.