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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

DIY prochamber install

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bullitt0616
  • Start date Start date Dec 31, 2005
B

Bullitt0616

New Member
Aug 31, 2005
96
0
0
Dec 31, 2005
#1
  • Dec 31, 2005
  • #1
since we have smog here, i want a prochamber but hate too keep going to a shop to swap it in just for a 10min test. so i thought of doing it myself with my portable tq gun.

how easy is it to install? just bolts and unplug the MIL?
 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"
Founding Member
Sep 24, 2002
3,464
1
69
Syracuse, NY
Dec 31, 2005
#2
  • Dec 31, 2005
  • #2
not too bad, easier if u have two people. 1 person to line it up and hold it and another to bolt it down.

i would put all the bolts on loose first before you go around tightning it to help prevent leaks.
 
J

Justin03GT

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
199
0
0
Mount Pleasant, SC
Dec 31, 2005
#3
  • Dec 31, 2005
  • #3
no need to use a gun on it...once you've done it a few times you can swap one in 15-20 mins easy..that includes jacking the car and all...
 

Miles

Founding Member
Aug 14, 2001
1,225
0
0
Burlington, ON
Jan 1, 2006
#4
  • Jan 1, 2006
  • #4
mustangworld did have an article on how-to install the prochamber, but its not on their site anymore (?)

I have the article saved to my PC, but it's probably not appropriate to post the whole thing.

Here are the install tips from the article:

Install tips:

1) When removing an H-pipe, careful not to bang up the oxygen sensors on the chassis. We recommend removing the O2 sensors while the h-pipe is still up on the stang.

2) The passenger side header uses a gasket and flange, you may need to order a few extra gaskets for constant removal / installation.

3) When installing the passenger side gasket, use two small rubber bands at the ends to hold it in place, this will make installing the h-pipe much easier. The small rubber bands will naturally "burn up" (while driving) and you'll be left with the gasket in place. The stock metal gasket is barbed on one bolt side and stays in place by itself.

4) The passenger side header uses two bolt studs that may "back out" as you are removing an h-pipe. If this happens, you'll need a "stud socket" to re-tighten the stud(s) back into the header. Eventually these studs will get loose and you can just screw it into the header with your fingers no problem. The driver side header (on the 4.6L) uses a traditional gasket-less ball flange.
 

ALVARADO302

Banned
Nov 2, 2004
69
0
0
Los Angeles
Jan 2, 2006
#5
  • Jan 2, 2006
  • #5
Go here pictures and all good luck its really a piece of cake. http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/hpip1.htm
 
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