DO I HAVE A BLOWN HEAD GASKET?

66nathen

New Member
Jan 10, 2007
27
0
0
on my last thread i posted all of my problems i was having after having a performance shop install a new carb for me. Problems were: LOTS of white exaust, oil and coolant mixing (foam when i checked the oil level on the dipstick), smoke coming from my crankshaft. Feedback i got from some of you were that maybe the shop used the wrong gaskets, didnt torque bolts right, swapped the intake manifold...but i called and all they did was litterally unbolt my old carb, and install the new edelbrock one. So now im hearing that i probably have a blown head gasket? excuse the inexperience....but do i? i heard its VERY expensive to fix (1000-3000 bucks) or if i want to fix it, i need ALOT of tools and its a pain in the ass. please help asap. 289, everythings stock (cept new carb that i probably wont get to use now)
 
If it IS a blown head gasket, it's actually a very simple fix on an early Mustang witha small block. With a few simple hand tools you can do it yourself in an easy weekend for whatever a top end gasket set costs. I suppose if you actually paid someone to fix it, they might charge 10hrs labor, but anyone that takes more than 10 hrs to do it isn't really trying. First take take it to someone to determine what is the problem. There are also some shops that might have someone available to stop by your house to check it to prevent doing any more damage by driving the car. All in all, you can do it, and if you really want to try, just ask, there's lots of people available for help here, including me.
 
maybe $100 in gaskets and fluids, 5-6 hours working at a casual pace without interuption. Most shops don't know how to work on old stuff anymore, so if you take it somewhere, do whatever you have to do to make sure they are knowledegable about old cars. It really doesn't take any special tools, unless you consider a torque wrench a special tool. Pick up a service manual for your car (chiltons, haynes, etc), it will all make sense.
 
yah smoke or steam when i twisted off the cap off my vavle cover. I have the chiltons, have the wrenches and have the time. Heard it was hard but guess not, now all i need is the gaskets. what causes head gaskets to blow? just old age?
 
Are they the original head gaskets?

If you put a bigger carb on it is possible with the increased performance you pushed the old head gaskets beyond their limits. Would have probably occured sooner or later anyway. Shouldn't be an issue again any time soon with new gaskets.

Clarification: You went from a stock 2-bbl carb to a Edelbrock 2-bbl carb, correct?
 
Are they the original head gaskets?

If you put a bigger carb on it is possible with the increased performance you pushed the old head gaskets beyond their limits. Would have probably occured sooner or later anyway. Shouldn't be an issue again any time soon with new gaskets.

Clarification: You went from a stock 2-bbl carb to a Edelbrock 2-bbl carb, correct?

no, went from stock 4bbl (along time ago) to a 2bbl motocraft (my grandfathers work) and from that 2bbl to an edelbrock 4bbl.
 
also...IF it is a blown gasket, when i go to purchase new head gaskets, does that fact that i have a hi-po manifold intake make a difference? i was looking at some catalogs and they had the head gaskets but it said something about not including something for hi-po intake....or sumthin like that. My block is k-code so its not an after market hi-po intake mani. it came stock. any advice on which brands of gaskets are better than others? Mr. Gasket seems like its the best based on the description it gave. I just dont want to have to do this again anytime soon. any advice helps thanx.
 
fel-pro 8548-PT2 for the head gasket, fel-pro 1250 for the intake gasket. You'll also need valve cover gaskets, antifreeze, 5 qts of oil and a filter.

I don't there is a K code specific manifold or block, I'm pretty sure they are normal stuff.
 
fel-pro 8548-PT2 for the head gasket, fel-pro 1250 for the intake gasket. You'll also need valve cover gaskets, antifreeze, 5 qts of oil and a filter.

I don't there is a K code specific manifold or block, I'm pretty sure they are normal stuff.

since i have coolant mixed with oil and its comin out all foamy is it okay to just drain all that foam and then just add the oil, or should i flush it somehow before adding the new oil?
 
Where are you located? Maybe a fellow stangneter can help you out..

I think everyone should at least be post what state they are from in the sigs.

haha. thats true. id be perfect if someone could come help me. i live in tacoma washington....so if any of you guys are in the area, let me know...i could use all the help i can get.
 
fel-pro 8548-PT2 for the head gasket, fel-pro 1250 for the intake gasket. You'll also need valve cover gaskets, antifreeze, 5 qts of oil and a filter.

I don't there is a K code specific manifold or block, I'm pretty sure they are normal stuff.

The Hi-po block was unique with larger main caps, but otherwise the same block the std 289 had. Ditto for the intake, same cast iron intake for both unless the dealer or some previous owner swapped it out for a Shelby or Ford aluminum intake.
 
The Hi-po block was unique with larger main caps, but otherwise the same block the std 289 had. Ditto for the intake, same cast iron intake for both unless the dealer or some previous owner swapped it out for a Shelby or Ford aluminum intake.


the caps aren't part of the block. The block is standard issue and has no impact on which gaskets to use.
 
no, went from stock 4bbl (along time ago) to a 2bbl motocraft (my grandfathers work) and from that 2bbl to an edelbrock 4bbl.

I'm confused by the statement above. If you recently went from 2bbl to 4bbl, they the shop would have to replace the intake manifold. How much did they charge you for time on the work order? If it was just a carb swap, it should be no more than 1 hour.

As far as swapping the head gaskets yourself, you should be aware of what you are about to get into. I'm not trying to talk you out of this, but you should get a reality check. Doing the swap involves removing the distributor, intake manifold, rocker arms & push rods, the exhaust manifold and then finally the head. While taking it apart is fairly simple (assuming you don't run into a rusty head bolt and break one) the reassembly requires some knowledge. For example, you will need to adjust the rocker arms for the proper lash. If you get this wrong, the engine will not perform properly, develop a ticking noise or could bend a rod. The only other difficulties are proper gasket/sealing on intake and setting the timing. Again, I don't want to talk you out of this, but given your experience level, you would be far better off getting someone who knows the drill to work with you on this so you can learn without the expense and headache of potentially causing new problems.