I am upgrading to full roller rockers. I have 3/8 screw in studs on my RPM Performers. It has been suggested to me to put a stud girdle on while I am at it. I don't turn past 6300 rpms. At what point would a stud girdle be recommended?
do I need a stud girdle?
- Thread starter jerry S
- Start date
HistoricMustang
Active Member
jerry S said:
IMHO they are not needed unless you run top RPM's for extended periods or do the serious 1/4 mile stuff.
I have never put them on my road racer as my personal feeling is that they help retain heat in the valve train which is not needed.
However, they sure look cool!
HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
HistoricMustang
Active Member
D.Hearne said:
Good point "D".
When I upgraded from 3/8" to 7/16", half of the smaller were bent.
HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
For me it was a no-brainer when it came to picking studs for my Canfield heads. The only drawback to 7/16 on a small block was there's a smaller choice in roller rockers that fit 7/16" studs. Especially when you're looking for 1.7 rockers. But they are out there. I went with Comp Cams 1.7 rockers in their "engine builder's" line. These aren't listed in the retailer's catalogs, they're a few dollars less than their retail line. I think mine were $230 for the set.
I would like to clarify; are you suggesting that I
1. tap the threads in the cylinder head and rethread to 7/16? or
2. get a combo stud with a 3/8 base thread and a 7/16 rocker arm thread?
1. tap the threads in the cylinder head and rethread to 7/16? or
2. get a combo stud with a 3/8 base thread and a 7/16 rocker arm thread?
all of this is a moot point if you are not running excessive valve spring pressures. if your springs have no more than around 300lbs and max lift, you are fine even with 3/8" studs. if you opt for 7/16" studs you will need to open up the holes the studs reside in now to 7/16 threads.
rbohm said:
ARP has a stud that has a 3/8 base and a 7/16 rocker arm thread, part number ARP-135-7102. The price of the studs is the same as for the 3/8 top and bottom stud and the price for the comp. cams 1.6 ratio pro magnum roller rocker is the same whether I get it in 3/8 or 7/16. Is the 3/8 bottom/7/16 top stud stronger than the 3/8 top and bottom stud? If so, with the price being equal, why not get the combo stud since I still have to purchase?
[edit]
well, I just priced the studs. $31.90 for 2. I need 16, which means an extra $255. I am already at $265 for the roller rockers and $200 for the chrome valve covers. Looks like I am sticking with the 3/8 ones that are in there.
HistoricMustang
Active Member
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HistoricMustang said:
If it comes from you H, then it is Gospel. THanks to everybody for your advice and input. I will stick with the studs that came with the heads and pop the rocker arms on there along with the new valve covers and be happy.
regards,
jerryS: another Stangnet tech forum satisfied customer.
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NO, no , no , no,rbohm said:
ALL screw in studs have 7/16" bottom threads. The 3/8" studs are 3/8" on top, 7/16" on bottom. Any head that's drilled and tapped for screw in studs will accept either one. So in effect that's why I suggested he go with 7/16" studs, they cost the same, but the 7/16" studs are much stronger. Now, if he's already bought the 3/8" rockers, he might as well keep them and use 3/8" studs. If not, it cost's nothing more to go with 7/16". Studs are the same price as are the rockers. 
D.Hearne said:
I have verified that I have 7/16 bottoms and 3/8 tops. I am satisfied that I don't need to upgrade.
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