You may not need anything. My car never wheel hopped even once and with good tires at the track it had no traction problems on 26x8 slicks or 275 drag radials. My car makes decent tq/hp and 60' in the high 1.50's.
the problem isnt the tires, wheel hop is properly called spring wrap. if the rear springs are ridged enough they wont wrap up and suddenly release. with stock springs and more than 250hp you need some kind of device to prevent spring wrap, and the traction masters bars are the best.
the problem isnt the tires, wheel hop is properly called spring wrap. if the rear springs are ridged enough they wont wrap up and suddenly release. with stock springs and more than 250hp you need some kind of device to prevent spring wrap, and the traction masters bars are the best.
I would not run TM bars, especially if the spring is not very close to flat at ride height. The TM bars will bind since an arced spring will get longer as it compresses. I still think the beefier spring packs will be ok with an auto.
i'm running a small little 5.0 roller crate motor...320 flywheel hp.
my wheels hopped so bad that I thought the car was going to seperate in two.
$40 later on the summit site I couldn't be happier. bolted in in minutes, cheap as hell, and works perfect.
actually no they dont, at least not enough to worry about. remember that the tmc bars are rubber bushed at both ends, and have pivot points as well, thus the small change in spring length at the front half of the spring is not an issue.
A clutch changes everything. Automatic cars are far more forgiving.
Springs do change length or there would not be a shackle on the back. Here is something copied from Traction Masters web site.
• G–1 Polyurethane Bushings
Perfect fit to the original M–1 cast ends. Maintains optimal performance by eliminating bushing slop. Bushings are tough
cast polyurethane with exacting tolerances.
It does not sound like there is much give in the polyurethane bushings.
• G–1 Polyurethane Bushings
Perfect fit to the original M–1 cast ends. Maintains optimal performance by eliminating bushing slop. Bushings are tough
cast polyurethane with exacting tolerances.
It does not sound like there is much give in the polyurethane bushings.
He has done something to address spring wrap, 4.5 leaf springs. I did something to address spring wrap too. Mine have a stiffer pack made from stock stuff. I am going to build some home made traction bars for mine since it should make more power soon.
Springs do change length or there would not be a shackle on the back. Here is something copied from Traction Masters web site.
I've got a t5 setup...i've launched it at 4-5k rpms with no issues
Nor is any needed. The length of the TM bar is calculated to swing with that change in length, so none is needed. TH switched to urethane years ago. One of the few places I'll tolerate urethane on a street driven Mustang.
I bet if you took video of your pinion area upon launch you would think differently.
Cal-Tracs... Nuff said..
Yes, half of the length change happens at each end of the spring. Since the front mount is immobile, that means the axle is displaced rearward by half of the total change in length. The springs will actually wrap a little bit under normal compression with the TM bars "pulling" forward from under the axle. However, that may not be an issue if the front of the TM bar is mounted higher than the axle end. The axle end will move rearward as it sweeps upward when the suspension compresses and offset the forward "pull." I don't have any of the spring/TM bar dims in front of me, but we could be talking about changes of 1/2" or less.
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