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Do Stainless Steel Brake Lines Actually Help?

  • Thread starter Thread starter custom89stang
  • Start date Start date Jun 27, 2004
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Noobz347

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#41
  • Oct 26, 2014
  • #41
Too many variables.
 
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Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#42
  • Oct 27, 2014
  • #42
All I know is I no longer worry about evil squirrels chewing through my brake lines. That kept me up at night for years.
 
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deathb4dismount

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#43
  • Oct 31, 2014
  • #43
Do slotted rotors help on a 4 lug setup? I was reading that page that @MFE92 linked and it was one of the upgrades mentioned. In an old post @Mustang5L5 you mentioned not to go with slotted rotors because they can warp easier. I am planning on doing a full brake job with MM upgrade kit when I wake the mustang up from hibernation next year and just wanted thoughts on going with a slotted style rotor compared to a stock replacement.
 

Mustang5L5

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#44
  • Oct 31, 2014
  • #44
My statement regarding warpage was due to removing mass from the rotor in the slots and concentrating heat in the rotor in the mass remaining.

The slots, in theory, help keep the brake free of debris and "wipe" the rotor face, but in my opinion that doesn't offset the reduction in mass which is more critical to heat reduction during heavy braking.

IMHO, with *most* average passenger car rotors running normal street pads, slots/drilled holes are no improvement at all.
 

deathb4dismount

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#45
  • Oct 31, 2014
  • #45
Mustang5L5 said:
My statement regarding warpage was due to removing mass from the rotor in the slots and concentrating heat in the rotor in the mass remaining.

The slots, in theory, help keep the brake free of debris and "wipe" the rotor face, but in my opinion that doesn't offset the reduction in mass which is more critical to heat reduction during heavy braking.

IMHO, with *most* average passenger car rotors running normal street pads, slots/drilled holes are no improvement at all.
Click to expand...
Good info the, heavy oh sh@t braking is what i worry about the most. Oh sh@t that pot hole just swallowed the car in front of me. The joys of driving in New England
 

Boosted92LX

It's only an inch or two. What's the big deal?
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#46
  • Oct 31, 2014
  • #46
Mustang5L5 said:
My statement regarding warpage was due to removing mass from the rotor in the slots and concentrating heat in the rotor in the mass remaining.

The slots, in theory, help keep the brake free of debris and "wipe" the rotor face, but in my opinion that doesn't offset the reduction in mass which is more critical to heat reduction during heavy braking.

IMHO, with *most* average passenger car rotors running normal street pads, slots/drilled holes are no improvement at all.
Click to expand...
I had heard and been under the impression that the idea behind slots/ holes in rotors from an engineering standpoint was to allow an escape route for gasses produced from the pads under extreme heat conditions.. Not to "clean" the face. From what I understood, this gas could actually prevent contact and cause fade, if not given somewhere to go, hence the drilled and slotted design..??

Not trying to be contrary, that's tech info I picked up twenty years ago.. Thoughts?
 

mikestang63

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#47
  • Oct 31, 2014
  • #47
For 99.999% of cars on the road, slotted/drilled rotors offer zero benefit IMO.
 

deathb4dismount

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#48
  • Oct 31, 2014
  • #48
mikestang63 said:
For 99.999% of cars on the road, slotted/drilled rotors offer zero benefit IMO.
Click to expand...
And they cost a lot more. I am trying to keep costs down because I am living on borrowed time with the transmission. I need to focus on saving money for a tremec
 

Mustang5L5

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#49
  • Oct 31, 2014
  • #49
Boosted92LX said:
I had heard and been under the impression that the idea behind slots/ holes in rotors from an engineering standpoint was to allow an escape route for gasses produced from the pads under extreme heat conditions.. Not to "clean" the face. From what I understood, this gas could actually prevent contact and cause fade, if not given somewhere to go, hence the drilled and slotted design..??

Not trying to be contrary, that's tech info I picked up twenty years ago.. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

You are absolutely right....

But modern pads don't suffer from this as much as pads did 20-30 years ago.

Good report that came out in 2006 called "The Effect of Rotor Crossdrilling on Brake Performance" written by two GM engineers. It's an SAE paper so unfortunately tou need to pay to read it

http://papers.sae.org/2006-01-0691/


But if you search around for the title you'll find it discussed in several forums. Here's a good one discussing it

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=500950


I still maintain my stance that for your average, normal street driven car that may see occasional aggressive driving, a X-drilled rotor is merely for show and you'd be better off with solid rotors
 
Last edited: Oct 31, 2014
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Boosted92LX

It's only an inch or two. What's the big deal?
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#50
  • Oct 31, 2014
  • #50
Mustang5L5 said:
You are absolutely right....

But modern pads don't suffer from this as much as pads did 20-30 years ago.

Good report that came out in 2006 called "The Effect of Rotor Crossdrilling on Brake Performance" written by two GM engineers. It's an SAE paper so unfortunately tou need to pay to read it

http://papers.sae.org/2006-01-0691/


But if you search around for the title you'll find it discussed in several forums. Here's a good one discussing it

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=500950


I still maintain my stance that for your average, normal street driven car that may see occasional aggressive driving, a X-drilled rotor is merely for show and you'd be better off with solid rotors
Click to expand...

Thank you, very good read. I wish I'd read this before ordering a powerstop kit for my son, lol. I guess we'll see how it works..
 

Noobz347

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#51
  • Oct 31, 2014
  • #51
Mustang5L5 said:
I still maintain my stance that for your average, normal street driven car that may see occasional aggressive driving, a X-drilled rotor is merely for show and you'd be better off with solid rotors
Click to expand...


This^^^^... And I would be one of the first to say that I bought them BECAUSE of their looks.

A little more mass versus some additional cooling of remaining mass. Benefits from two opposite extremes for braking (different braking circumstances). So there's a trade-off there. I call this a wash.

In my case though, I'm putting a brake that is over sized for my application (Fox street monster) and setting off the rims with the extra carving (looks badass).

I call WIN!
 

mikestang63

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#52
  • Oct 31, 2014
  • #52
The other issue is when you go to turn those drilled or slotted rotors. Very few shops want to deal with them. In addition, the drilled rotors are prone to cracking. I say, if you are buying them- know it is for looks and do not buy the cheap Ebay ones.
 
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Noobz347

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#53
  • Oct 31, 2014
  • #53
I've not seen the stress relieved drilled rotors crack yet.

Anyone seen an example of that? I know that PowerStop is one of the ones that stress relieves.
 

Mustang5L5

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Nov 1, 2014
#54
  • Nov 1, 2014
  • #54
Technically, they should be cast with the holes already in place. It should not be a secondary process
 
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90lxwhite

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#55
  • Nov 2, 2014
  • #55
Mustang5L5 said:
Technically, they should be cast with the holes already in place. It should not be a secondary process
Click to expand...
^ this guy is wise. I'm gonna start calling him OBDI Kanobe (get it obdI...)
 

89oem

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#56
  • Nov 2, 2014
  • #56
Allot of good links in this thread, learned a thing or two...
 
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