Do you guys think these are worth picking up?

BlakeusMaximus · Nov 25, 2020

Its been years since I installed one of these. Im running a stock style clutch cable now and I feel that the friction point is a little to high. I want to feel the friction point a couple inches off the floor. Which cables should I stay away from and which ones do you guys recommend? I know the MM one is probably the best but it looks like Summit still sells the Ford Racing cable and quadrant. Is the Ford Racing cable any good? Any suggestions?

Chuckman · Nov 25, 2020

i just got the ford cable a couple weeks ago, still waiting on trans so havent actually used it yet. i dont have my mm cable anymore to compare to, but looks pretty ok to me, took the chance on it hoping it is just a stock-replacement cable but ive never had one of those either so.....can maybe snap a pic if someone wants to compare to a stock/mm

BlakeusMaximus · Nov 25, 2020

I’d like to spring for the MM cable and quadrant, but their stuff is so damn expensive. Just wondering what some of the members have ran on their cars with good results.

Mustang5L5 · Nov 25, 2020

Stock Ford cable and NOS stock quadrant on my car. Maybe 1k miles on it. Works great and on my inspection no wear, so I’m gonna stick with it.

if I were to buy anything ekse, it would be the MM cable/quadrant kit

BlakeusMaximus · Nov 25, 2020

How far from the floor would you say the clutch engages @Mustang5L5?

Mustang5L5 · Nov 25, 2020

Havent driven the car in 14 months, but i want to say 3” off the floor it starts grabbing? Don’t quote me on that

BlakeusMaximus · Nov 25, 2020

Mustang5L5 said:
Havent driven the car in 14 months, but i want to say 3” off the floor it starts grabbing? Don’t quote me on that

I would say mine engages 6 inches off the floor. Seems high to me.

Essn95 · Nov 25, 2020

I have the LMR double hook with my stock cable. I have it adjusted to engage about 2” off the floor which is right where I like it. No issues

BlakeusMaximus · Nov 25, 2020

@Essn95, are you running a firewall adjuster? Is there a way I can adjust what I have? I cant remember if there are adjusting nuts on the end of the cable that attaches to the clutch fork. Ill have to look at it this weekend. I have a stock cable and stock quadrant.

I was driving my car this morning and got to thinking about all this.

Noobz347 · Nov 25, 2020

If you have adjusting nuts on the end of your cable then your cable is junk (an opinion from someone that's been through some heavy clutches and a few cables). Ditch it before it leaves you stranded somewhere.

If you start leaning toward a FW adjuster, I would take at least a brief look at anything else you have in that area. Some intakes or other items can make them difficult to get to.

I personally like the Fiore Micro-click (not available anymore because reasons).

This is what is left of that unit:

Ford Vehicles - Mustang - 1994-2004 Mustang - Drivetrain - Quadrants - UPR Products

uprproducts.com

It's pretty much the same thing except that the Fiore had larger/better knurls on the knob.

A tip that I got from @jrichker many years ago: Put a thrust bearing underneath the firewall adjuster. It's an even better idea because of the locking feature of this particular unit. Adding the bearing between the adjuster and the firewall makes it smooth while the 'click' feature provides a positive lock to keep it from backing out.

Somewhere around here, he's got a thread showing some images. I'll post it if I come across it or maybe one of these other guys knows where it is off the top of their head.

BlakeusMaximus · Nov 25, 2020

Thanks Noobz, I doubt it has adjusting nuts. I'm still running my stock intake, so no worries there. Not sure if I need a firewall adjuster, just wondering what I would need to bring that engagement a little closer to the floor.

90sickfox · Nov 25, 2020

My rule of thumb is that if the plastic part that goes through the firewall isn't a creamy white I won't use it or install it for customers. I've seen more cable than I can count actually pull through the black ones sold by advance and autozone. They sold bad ones for over 10 years... I don't even know how they got away with that. The cable in my car now is a Ford cable...I think it was 40 bucks from the Ford dealer about 10 years ago.

jrichker · Nov 25, 2020

Noobz347 said:
If you have adjusting nuts on the end of your cable then your cable is junk (an opinion from someone that's been through some heavy clutches and a few cables). Ditch it before it leaves you stranded somewhere.

If you start leaning toward a FW adjuster, I would take at least a brief look at anything else you have in that area. Some intakes or other items can make them difficult to get to.

I personally like the Fiore Micro-click (not available anymore because reasons).

This is what is left of that unit:

Ford Vehicles - Mustang - 1994-2004 Mustang - Drivetrain - Quadrants - UPR Products

uprproducts.com

It's pretty much the same thing except that the Fiore had larger/better knurls on the knob.

A tip that I got from @jrichker many years ago: Put a thrust bearing underneath the firewall adjuster. It's an even better idea because of the locking feature of this particular unit. Adding the bearing between the adjuster and the firewall makes it smooth while the 'click' feature provides a positive lock to keep it from backing out.

Somewhere around here, he's got a thread showing some images. I'll post it if I come across it or maybe one of these other guys knows where it is off the top of their head.

While I was at it, I fixed the problem of the firewall adjuster being difficult to turn. I added a roller thrust bearing to the adjuster. Now it is easy to turn and since the adjuster has click stops built into it, there is no worry about it moving without me turning it. It cost about $8 plus the shipping.

Use some wheel bearing grease on the meal races where they face the bearing. Then apply some to the nylon sleeve where it fits into the adjuster. This keeps everything lubed up and moving freely when you turn the adjuster. The wheel bearing grease won't melt or wash out due to the heat and moisture in the engine compartment.
www.mscdirect.com was the source for the parts
03380920 1 each 0.750X1.250X0.078 THRUST CAGE-NEEDLE ASSEMB
03381092 2 each 0.750X1.250X0.032 THRUST WASHER-NEEDLE-FLAT

kiddiccarus · Nov 25, 2020

I have the steeda double hook quadrant, adjustable cable and firewall adjuster. I first had the MM purchased from American Muscle, but that one was incorrect, had to call LMR to get the right stuff for my application and now am very pleased with how it adjusts both at the fork and the firewall.

TIGGER · Nov 26, 2020

BlakeusMaximus said:
I’d like to spring for the MM cable and quadrant, but their stuff is so damn expensive. Just wondering what some of the members have ran on their cars with good results.

When I bought my 86 Saleen 12 years ago, the car had a brand new clutch and cable installed by clutch doctors by of all people. Every 1500 miles or so I had to adjust the clutch because the SOB new clutch cable was stretching. I always knew it needed adjustment when the car was hard to get into first gear at a stop light. The cable had stretched so much that I had to remove the metal cover because the bolt was out so far that it interfered with the cover. I drove it without the cover till the winter of that year and pulled it off the road. At that time it was my daily driver. I purchased the MM kit on one of their sales of the week thing that winter. Let me tell you, it was money WELL SPENT. The pedal effort is considerably less that it was with that POS aftermarket cable installed. I think I have had to adjust it once since I installed it and I have put nearly 25K on the car. If either of my SN95's need a cable replacement I will not hesitate to purchase another MM setup for them. Very happy with the kit that is in my Saleen.

Steel1 · Nov 26, 2020

Been running stock cable, Steeda double hook quadrant and UPR firewall adjuster.
I like the set-up but if I did it over again I would go with the above mentioned "click lock"
style adjuster. Mine has a set-screw locking system that periodically needs to be re-tightened.

BlakeusMaximus · Nov 26, 2020

Is there a chance the cable in my car is too long? I bought a new one off LMR when I swapped out the old trans and installed a new McLeod clutch and Ztrans a few years back. I’m wondering if I go with what @Mustang5L5 is running, oem Ford cable and oem/stock quadrant, I might be happier with the clutch engagement??

I was driving it home from work last night, and the engagement is too damn high. Almost at the end of the pedal, but not quite. This is the cable I went with.

Mustang5L5 · Nov 26, 2020

Problem is can you even get a new OEM Ford cable these days?

BlakeusMaximus · Nov 26, 2020

Mustang5L5 said:
Problem is can you even get a new OEM Ford cable these days?

I don’t know. I’m going to call the local dealership that we deal with at the body shop on Monday and see. They were able to get the hard coolant line I needed a while back.

BlakeusMaximus · Nov 26, 2020

$200 on ebay. Jeez

Do you guys think these are worth picking up?

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