Does it matter which way the vacuum lines get hooked up to the solenoids?

[StreetDreamsGT]

Hey guys, I've got all the diagrams for the vacuum lines and while I was looking at them, I noticed it doesn't specify which lines go to which prong on each of the TAD,TAB, and EGR solenoids....does it really matter? I'm just worried about hooking everything up and having it still run like crap. Also, I noticed the line comming from the Vac Reservour Canister splits into two lines, there was nothing about this in the diagrams should one just go to the vac check valve and the other two the TAD n TAB solenoids? (I don't need the HVAC controls)
If it gets to be too much to explain then pictures of the way your solenoids are hooked up would be just as good to me.
Thanks Guys,

 

[jrichker]

Follow the diagram, which you probably already have. Note that the vacuum connections use a stepped push on connector that keeps source and destination ports pointed to the correct place.


The TAB/TAD solenoids are tapped into a vacuum source that uses a check valve and vacuum reservoir. My guess is that this keeps a constant vacuum at low vacuum conditions like Wide Open Throttle. That keeps the valves and vent system working when you hit WOT. It would suck to have a car that closed the vent system every time you floored the gas pedal. The TAB solenoid is the one that causes the smog pump to dump its output overboard at WOT. If it didn't have good vacuum at WOT, it would not dump. That could cost you a few HP, so make sure that you have it plumbed into the check valve and vacuum reservoir for its vacuum source.

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

 

[StreetDreamsGT]

Yea i've got that diagram, does it matter which way the vac lines are fed into the intake? I ask because, I have an aftermarket intake in which there are only provisions for 3 lines on the upper side of the manifold instead of on the side under the manifold, there is still a hole for the pcv valve on the bottom, however there isn't one where the other end of the T fitting is supposed to plumb into.

One other thing, is it important to make sure,when I replace the lines, that they are of the same inside diameter as the stock ones?

 

[v8only]

if you're speed density, be sure to hook it straight to manifold vacuum, and also, the fuel pressure straight to manifold, otherwise, as long as sources get vacuum, I do believe you should be fine.

 

[StreetDreamsGT]

i'm MAF, if that makes any difference, but cool as long as everything should still be ok....I had to go out and get rubber replacement lines, they seem to be about the same inside diameter as the plastic ones, but attaching them to everything could be a pain because the outside is much bigger than the stock lines

 

[v8only]

maf gets no vacuum at the map, other than that, everything is pretty much the same. I've used skinny rubber line to connect broken parts of that brittle stuff before and it worked ok. Just be sure to take a vaccum reading after, expect a steady 17-20 pounds if you have a stock cam.

 

[Brett88lx]

If I removed my smog pump crap do I still need the TAB/TAD solenoids?? Removed them yesterday and now I only have the EGR vacuum regulator. Is this bad?