Does This Eec Look Bad?

93silverlx50

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Jun 12, 2017
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I'm dealing with no start cranks check list. I've gone through the list, plenty of fuel and spark. Replaced Dizzy, TFI etc with zero luck.

I pulled the EEC out, it's a remanufactured unit. No green fuzz and capacitors look great. However, there are dark burn looking spots throughout. Are these in fact burn spots, could this be my issue?
 

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I wrote the Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected 5.0 Mustangs. The main reason it doesn't work is that people pick and choose what they want to do instead of going through it line by line in sequence.

Did you check to see if you had injector pulse by using a Noid light?
Did you use starting fluid sprayed in the throttle body to see if you could get the engine to run briefly?
 
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I wrote the Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected 5.0 Mustangs. The main reason it doesn't work is that people pick and choose what they want to do instead of going through it line by line in sequence.

Did you check to see if you had injector pulse by using a Noid light?
Did you use starting fluid sprayed in the throttle body to see if you could get the engine to run briefly?

So I followed the check list along. Fuel pressure is fine, plugs are soaked after cranking, good spark at coil and good results from bench test. Good spark at plugs too. Used Motorcraft dizzy and TFI were installed with no luck. I did the noid light test on two injectors which are getting signal just as they should. I sprayed starting fluid in open throttle body, still no starting.

I had not tried to start it in about a week. I went out and cranked it today and after a lot of cranking it stumbled and barley started. Idled at about 600ish RPMs. Idled up and down. I gave it some throttle and after about a second to two second delay, the rpms raised a little while the car shook and stumbled. I took my foot off the accelerator and it stayed at aboit 1500 to 2000k rpms for about 4 to 5 seconds before falling down. It's spitting, stumbling and popping. I turned the dizzy about 1/8 of an inch clockwise and it began to idle a bit higher. Still stumbles and pops. I fooled around with the dizzy to see if I can get it smooth until I go rent a light but no luck. Now, it won't start again. It cranks and cranks and it nearly fires up but nothing.
 
So are you going to burn up your battery and starter or are you going to fix it.
I can tell you that checklist has the fix in it. Start at the begining and work through it, jrichker and the other contributors to that and the surging idle checklist know a few things about these eec systems.
About that circuit board, it has a burnt spot that would concern me but I don't know enough about them to say for sure.
 
So are you going to burn up your battery and starter or are you going to fix it.
I can tell you that checklist has the fix in it. Start at the begining and work through it, jrichker and the other contributors to that and the surging idle checklist know a few things about these eec systems.
About that circuit board, it has a burnt spot that would concern me but I don't know enough about them to say for sure.

Obviously I'm trying to fix it. However, it does require that I try to start it after I've either tested or done something on the list to see if that was the culprit. I've gone through the checklist several times, in order. I've also reviewed the surging idle check list as well.

I'm well aware of how good those lists are. However, most of the surging idle issues are by nature while the car is running since they are idle issues. Tough to diagnose some of those when the car wont start.
 
I sympathize, these things can be balls to diagnose, another member is dealing with a similar problem. You likely missed something in the list. Maybe take that circuit board to a computer shop an ask them or do you have a friend that has a computer you could try.
Go back over the list, be meticulous, make notes, you'll figuare it out.