These cars just won't go more than a couple thousand miles before the next thing breaks. I love them more than any car out there, and I swear on anything, they're the only car I would still own if I had all the money in the world and had to choose just 1. The good news is that yes, you can drive these every day and be happy as a clam with every part on the car working. You just have insist on fixing each thing as it comes up, and never allow the list to compound on itself. When one thing breaks, figure it out, fix it, and don't wait. Don't overlook the little things. When the ashtray door breaks, it's easy to say, "whatever, they always do," and then let it stay that way. But with that kind of attitude, after a couple years, it's the ashtray door, a power lock, one of the windows won't go up straight, the center console won't properly latch, the A/C won't stay charged, the throw out brearing squeaks, etc... Then you get in it one day and realize that you hate the damn thing and would rather not drive it. Good thing I love them so much. I'm always tinkering, looking for, and taking on the next issue.You get in that car and just drive it. The mirrors work. It's not blowing oil out. The brakes are good. The headliner isn't falling down. All these things are just taken for granted in a car like that. I want the Mustang to be the same. It won't ride as good or look as new but I do not want to have ten or so things that I always hate about the car every single day because those things need repair.
They say "if you can't tie a knot, tie A LOT!" I suggest using all of the gaskets up front, save possibly the lower intake gasket-to-black cork end gaskets, and use plenty of RTV... just not so much that it will break off and gunk up the inside of the motor.I've had my car since new it's used a quart of oil between changes (1500 miles). This is not the same engine but after building this engine it has always done the same. With the oil coming out of the front now though it using the same amount but at 1000 miles. This has to stop. I am confident the car will run forever like this but I can't take it. It reeks of burning oil all the time and is a mess. I'd like some input, please.
I've run the MM cable with an aluminum quadrant forever. Definitely need a firewall adjuster with any aluminum quadrant, though. I also do not recommend the smaller radius quadrants out there, like the UPR among several others, that are meant to lighten the pedal. I like the cable to have plenty of movement so a pressed pedal can fully disengage a clutch while not having too much pressure on the t/o bearing when the pedal is up.-Fix clutch cable. This may include a new cable and firewall adjuster. Already have the aluminum quadrant installed although MM says that an aluminum quadrant made for adjustable cables won't work with the MM cable. Not sure. I need to adjust it first and see if that fixes the problem.
Yep. Stop driving until this is fixed, or you will pay for it in synchros. You don't run a twin-disk do you? They are the biggest pains in the ass to keep fully disengaged. Seems the airgap between the floater and the disks changes by temperature, and once contact is made and too much heat generated, warpage occurs and prevents full disengagement. If you have a single disk, see if you can get the firewall adjuster out enough to stop the rolling on a completely level surface. You should be able to rev to 6k without any rolling on a level surface. If you can't, something is wrong.While cranking the car in gear with the clutch pressed the car wants to move forward. Also, in a parking lot or at a stop light, if I take the car out of gear it can be difficult to get back in. It feels like you are hitting a wall. It only does it with the car running so I'm almost sure it just needs adjusting.
I'd be interested in this one, just out of curiosity. I just run a standard washer.-Order some of the good oil drain plug washers. (having trouble finding them) My car uses so much oil I am trying to eliminate every possible spot that could leak. A year or so ago I found a fellow mustang guy that found the holy grail of drain plug washers and it fixed his leak. I can't find him or the clip I made of the washers. I actually found these online at Summit and they were in a pack of 4. Can not find them now and don't remember any details. The only thing I definitely remember is they were not available at any parts store.
Not too bad unless you don't have a badass rivet gun that you need for the special order rivets they use.-Door lock actuators again (100% sick of these).
Damn, really? My last mirror replacement on my Saturn was like $40 total. I wonder why they're so much.-New door mirrors (LMR $175 with free shipping....RockAuto $153 plus shipping)
My black car needs paint badly. I just can't bring myself to pay California rates. Gonna find a good guy back east after I'm restationed in December.-Paint the car.
Now that you mention it, this makes more sense. I don't see how a timing cover leak gets flung around the engine bay.+1 on the balancer sleeve, It has solved my problem before on a 60 yr old 289
A leaking front TC seal will mostly run down the front of oil pan, the harmonic balancer is flinging oil all the way to the hood?
My 2 cent guess is the seal is fine, but the key way on the inside of Harmonic balancer is allowing oil to come thru ( you cleaned em really good right )so all oil leaked is running out to front of harmonic balancer past the big bolt and is flung around.
A little rtv on the key and key way might be the answer. Oil leaks are hard to diagnose on the inter web.
Gonna try to answer both posts but I'm on my phone now. It doesn't like me.Now that you mention it, this makes more sense. I don't see how a timing cover leak gets flung around the engine bay.
That does make sense.Now that you mention it, this makes more sense. I don't see how a timing cover leak gets flung around the engine bay.
Somebody around here has given a pretty good recommendation in the past. After cleaning the area, and once it dries, add baby power/talcum/chalk. That's supposed to make it pretty easy to track where it's coming from.That does make sense.
I guess what I would do is get some engine degreaser and go to town on the front of the engine, and then drive and see if you can observe where fresh oil is coming from. If it's being flung around the bay, it has to be slinging off the balancer somewhere.
I'm working on my list and wanted to get info on one that hasn't been addressed yet. I've searched around and can't really find good info on this one. Does anyone have a list of what all vehicles this part came on? My '88 has the small rectangular one and I'd like to put on of these in. the 92/93 Mustang I know but there are none in yards around here. Thanks.Others in order of Priority
-New dome light and other interior lighting to really light up the interior (Get a dome light from the wrecking yard. I'd like the '93 Mustang version but need to know what all vehicles they are the same in since there are zero foxes in the yards here.)
Bolt dead ends so no need but key way is a potential path for a leak. Was just a thought.I've never put RTV on the balancer bolt or keyway. Does everybody do that?
Yes, it broke. Then shredded and dropped out on the road somewhere. I've just finished the repair. Worked all day on it for the second day. I'll post what all I did in a little while once I can breathe again! I have pics.Did the belt break? or slip off? Did you ever find it?
do you have any vibration? Does the balancer wobble?
What about me? I have the right part, and I still have to do it over, and over?.
Things I've learned from this that I hope will help someone at some point:
-Carry a spare belt. Technically you can drive an a flat tire but you can't get far with no belt.
-If a part is 30 years old it's probably not worth taking a chance on if you drive your car daily. That is for serviceable parts.When you replace a part, if it's not exactly right go ahead right then and do it right....no matter how many times it takes.
-You can easily replace the timing cover seal while on the car and, you can install the balancer most of the time with just the 15/16 bolt. There's a whole thread in here about that with lots of good input.
I'm gonna drive it a couple days and then check it again Friday. I'm hoping this solved my main thing from my last. I'd love to move on to the easier ones!
Thanks for all the help and encouragement guys!
|Thread starter||Similar threads||Forum||Replies||Date|
|F||New Fuel Pump/ Injectors Now Car Won't Get Fuel Pressure||1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-||1|
|My Parts Car Dilemma...I'm getting the "Feels"||1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-||7|
|S||So guys need help. Want to get my car tuned.||1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-||8|
|Engine Car at mechanic, need second opinion info to help get it home||Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech||13|
|W||help me get my 89 lx into a decent track car||Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech||8|