Getting my car decent. Looking for thoughts on this long list.

Mustang5L5

Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Massachusetts
I've installed them both ways. Never had one leak. Area seems pretty reinforced. Just use an appropriate seal driver and tap in

I'd be curious to see if a groove has formed on the balancer. In that case install a sleeve, or if the rubber is cracking and pushing out just replace the balancer
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FastDriver

My dad had a bra
SN Certified Technician
Sep 5, 2001
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You get in that car and just drive it. The mirrors work. It's not blowing oil out. The brakes are good. The headliner isn't falling down. All these things are just taken for granted in a car like that. I want the Mustang to be the same. It won't ride as good or look as new but I do not want to have ten or so things that I always hate about the car every single day because those things need repair.
These cars just won't go more than a couple thousand miles before the next thing breaks. I love them more than any car out there, and I swear on anything, they're the only car I would still own if I had all the money in the world and had to choose just 1. The good news is that yes, you can drive these every day and be happy as a clam with every part on the car working. You just have insist on fixing each thing as it comes up, and never allow the list to compound on itself. When one thing breaks, figure it out, fix it, and don't wait. Don't overlook the little things. When the ashtray door breaks, it's easy to say, "whatever, they always do," and then let it stay that way. But with that kind of attitude, after a couple years, it's the ashtray door, a power lock, one of the windows won't go up straight, the center console won't properly latch, the A/C won't stay charged, the throw out brearing squeaks, etc... Then you get in it one day and realize that you hate the damn thing and would rather not drive it. Good thing I love them so much. I'm always tinkering, looking for, and taking on the next issue.

I guess the only thing I've given up on is the minor oil leak on the rear of motor on both turbo cars. It seems higher powered/boosted cars just can't completely stay sealed. Not sure if it's the rear main or lower intake gasket, but I've tried all the tricks I know of, and they won't stay sealed for long. Oh well on that one. It's just a few drips on the garage floor. My N/A cars never had an issue with this. I think it's either pressurizing the lower end and blowing out a gasket or the rear main seal gets crushed when the motor makes monster torque regardless of how stout the block/rotating assembly is. Have tried for years... Will keep trying.

I've had my car since new it's used a quart of oil between changes (1500 miles). This is not the same engine but after building this engine it has always done the same. With the oil coming out of the front now though it using the same amount but at 1000 miles. This has to stop. I am confident the car will run forever like this but I can't take it. It reeks of burning oil all the time and is a mess. I'd like some input, please.
They say "if you can't tie a knot, tie A LOT!" I suggest using all of the gaskets up front, save possibly the lower intake gasket-to-black cork end gaskets, and use plenty of RTV... just not so much that it will break off and gunk up the inside of the motor.

-Fix clutch cable. This may include a new cable and firewall adjuster. Already have the aluminum quadrant installed although MM says that an aluminum quadrant made for adjustable cables won't work with the MM cable. Not sure. I need to adjust it first and see if that fixes the problem.
I've run the MM cable with an aluminum quadrant forever. Definitely need a firewall adjuster with any aluminum quadrant, though. I also do not recommend the smaller radius quadrants out there, like the UPR among several others, that are meant to lighten the pedal. I like the cable to have plenty of movement so a pressed pedal can fully disengage a clutch while not having too much pressure on the t/o bearing when the pedal is up.

While cranking the car in gear with the clutch pressed the car wants to move forward. Also, in a parking lot or at a stop light, if I take the car out of gear it can be difficult to get back in. It feels like you are hitting a wall. It only does it with the car running so I'm almost sure it just needs adjusting.
Yep. Stop driving until this is fixed, or you will pay for it in synchros. You don't run a twin-disk do you? They are the biggest pains in the ass to keep fully disengaged. Seems the airgap between the floater and the disks changes by temperature, and once contact is made and too much heat generated, warpage occurs and prevents full disengagement. If you have a single disk, see if you can get the firewall adjuster out enough to stop the rolling on a completely level surface. You should be able to rev to 6k without any rolling on a level surface. If you can't, something is wrong.

-Order some of the good oil drain plug washers. (having trouble finding them) My car uses so much oil I am trying to eliminate every possible spot that could leak. A year or so ago I found a fellow mustang guy that found the holy grail of drain plug washers and it fixed his leak. I can't find him or the clip I made of the washers. I actually found these online at Summit and they were in a pack of 4. Can not find them now and don't remember any details. The only thing I definitely remember is they were not available at any parts store.
I'd be interested in this one, just out of curiosity. I just run a standard washer.

-Door lock actuators again (100% sick of these).
Not too bad unless you don't have a badass rivet gun that you need for the special order rivets they use.

-New door mirrors (LMR $175 with free shipping....RockAuto $153 plus shipping)
Damn, really? My last mirror replacement on my Saturn was like $40 total. I wonder why they're so much.

-Paint the car.
My black car needs paint badly. I just can't bring myself to pay California rates. Gonna find a good guy back east after I'm restationed in December.
 
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FastDriver

My dad had a bra
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Sep 5, 2001
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+1 on the balancer sleeve, It has solved my problem before on a 60 yr old 289

A leaking front TC seal will mostly run down the front of oil pan, the harmonic balancer is flinging oil all the way to the hood?
My 2 cent guess is the seal is fine, but the key way on the inside of Harmonic balancer is allowing oil to come thru ( you cleaned em really good right )so all oil leaked is running out to front of harmonic balancer past the big bolt and is flung around.
A little rtv on the key and key way might be the answer. Oil leaks are hard to diagnose on the inter web.
Now that you mention it, this makes more sense. I don't see how a timing cover leak gets flung around the engine bay.
 

Wayne Waldrep

5 Year Member
Apr 14, 2003
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Now that you mention it, this makes more sense. I don't see how a timing cover leak gets flung around the engine bay.
Gonna try to answer both posts but I'm on my phone now. It doesn't like me.

-Seems like for the last 3 or 4 years it's been one thing after another. As an example, in that time I've done the following: completely new cooling system (every single piece), completely new a/c system (every single piece), 130amp alternator conversion, completely removed power steering system and replaced with full manual setup because I couldn't get it to not leak. Those are just the big ones during that time. All those systems had multiple failures and they came all in a row. I was ready to burn the car. Still might.

-I put the current clutch cable in the car in 1990 or so. Did an aluminum quadrant at the same time. Don't even remember the brand but there weren't many back then. Never had a minutes trouble. Got a crap load of miles and races on it. It's an adjustable one and I hope it just needs a few turns in on the nut.

-No, I run a Centrrforce Dual Friction, my only go to clutch kit. Had many, I love them. Can't stop driving it. It's my only car. I just start it in neutral now. Gonna try to adjust it this weekend.

-Oh at this point I have the giant rivet gun. Might have even worn it out by now...lol.

-Well the timing cover seal leaking because it's bad or because the balancer has a groove in it is the same leak really. Same spot. It gets on the balancer, then the crank pulley, then the belt. All over the place after that. Gonna pull the balancer first to see. I do have a couple extra stock ones that may be better.

Thanks for the response bud!
 

Mustang5L5

Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
30,516
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Massachusetts
Now that you mention it, this makes more sense. I don't see how a timing cover leak gets flung around the engine bay.
That does make sense.

I guess what I would do is get some engine degreaser and go to town on the front of the engine, and then drive and see if you can observe where fresh oil is coming from. If it's being flung around the bay, it has to be slinging off the balancer somewhere.
 
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FastDriver

My dad had a bra
SN Certified Technician
Sep 5, 2001
4,153
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Seaside, CA
That does make sense.

I guess what I would do is get some engine degreaser and go to town on the front of the engine, and then drive and see if you can observe where fresh oil is coming from. If it's being flung around the bay, it has to be slinging off the balancer somewhere.
Somebody around here has given a pretty good recommendation in the past. After cleaning the area, and once it dries, add baby power/talcum/chalk. That's supposed to make it pretty easy to track where it's coming from.
 

JKWilson61

Active Member
Jul 27, 2018
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Summerville, SC
I know I'm a little late with a response as I'm out of town on business and finally had time to sit down and get on the net. Regarding my hardware suggestion I'd try a mom & pop hardware store, an ACE or a True Value. Lowes and Home Depot kinda suck for the specialized selection.

Your idea for fixing your speaker grills is a good one. For the adhesive to attach your new posts I'd HIGHLY recommend Devcon Plastic Welder. It's a two part epoxy in a syringe that you squeeze out and stir up. I swear by the stuff for any kind of plastic repairs. Depending on temperature and humidity it has a 5-15 minute working window before it kicks and starts to harden.

If all else fails in locating your oil leak there's one final trick I can suggest. FastDriver kind of touched on it already with his baby power/talcum/chalk suggestion. After I left the Ford dealership (YEARD ago!), where I was a line mechanic first on Fords and then moving over to BMW's and Deloreans (yeah I kinda date myself here! LOL), I got hired next door at a Buick/AMC/Renault dealership where I was the "oil leak guy". If I had one that was exceptionally hard to locate I'd clean everything down and let it dry good. Next I'd spray the suspect area with a product from the baking supplies aisle at the grocery store....Baker's Secret! If no one is familiar with it, it's been around for years. It's an aerosol that's like a mixture of PAM and good old white flour. The PAM type stuff allows the flour to stick to a surface, vertical or horizontal. It'll also wash away with soap and water. When used for finding oil leaks just spray it on, let it dry for a few minutes and then run the engine for a little. Check the area for tan or brown spots in the white flour. There's your leak! Oh in case your wondering about staining from spattering or oil that was slung and not the actually from source of the leak, the staining will look different. Don't run it too long before your checking or you won't be able to tell the difference then.