Doing the brakes myself.....HELP

rdefino

Founding Member
Feb 6, 2001
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I have a 2001 gt and decide to do the brakes myself. I just going to replace the rotors and pads. What should I get. I do not need to get the vented ones (I would, but to much money). What are good parts to buys and from where? Are there any do-it yourself guides. I used to do them on my 90lx and they weren't bad at all. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Ron
 
Ron, brakes on SN95 are as easy if not easier than a Fox. For one you have 4 wheel disc, no drums springs and shoes to deal with. Once you pull the wheel off, all you have to do is loosen the nuts on the caliper sliders, and then pull the caliper off, leaving the brake line hooked on, of course. Support the caliper, so it doesn't hang by the brake line, then you will see on the brake rotor backing plate that the whole caliper cradle is held on to the rotor backing with to bolts. They may be metric (14mm or something). Take those off, and the cradle comes right off. Then just pull the rotor off. If its stuck, some tapping with a rubber/plastic mallet may be necessary. Just remember one thing: Do one wheel at a time, that way you can always look at the other assembled one for reference.
Good Luck
John
 
You're going to need hex drivers for the caliper bolts. It should be straight forward enough and basically the same as your fox. Heres a good tip, use line locks to clamp off the brake hose and then open the bleeder screw and compress the caliper using the old pads and a C-clamp. This will keep the nasty brake fluid that tends to settle in your calipers from going back up into the master. Brakes are cake.
 
As for pads go with the OEM Ford pads. They will be the quietest. Unless you want a higher performance pad. Then I'd recommend the EBC Greenstuff. Those are pretty good pads. Stay away from the parts stores like NAPA, Autozone, Carquest, etc. Also, make sure you put some High temp silicone on the backs of the pads or disc brake quiet and grease the sliders or I can assure you they will squeek.
 
If you are looking for brakes that will work in basic daily driving applications...just use a Napa, Autozone, or Pepboys brand. The warrentees are pretty good. If you want to take the next step go with a slotted and/or crossdrilled rotor with kevlar pads. Depends on what your application is. Drag racing you may want something a little better to slow you down after the traps. I don't remember needing hex's, but i haven't done mine in about 2 years now, so Slow97 might be right.
 
brake job

If its a 2001 try cutting the rotors, they all can get a few cuts, the fluid does go bad so change it, start at the back and open the bleeder before compressing the caliper, because of the anti-lock its important not to force brake fluid back into it.....I use like the other guy said auto zone brake pads..they will give you a free set if they wear down....if the fluid looks skanky drain it all use dot 3 or 4..... starting at the back is important get the tool for turning in the calipers on the back "they dont compress you must turn them clockwise" if you have a vacume bleeder it will make the job easy & neat.... actually its a lot easy'r than drums....that bullitt web site shows it all and alot of other good stuff....when done break-em in easy for the first miles....good luck..............................................Johnny
 
rdefino said:
I have a 2001 gt and decide to do the brakes myself. I just going to replace the rotors and pads. What should I get. I do not need to get the vented ones (I would, but to much money). What are good parts to buys and from where? Are there any do-it yourself guides. I used to do them on my 90lx and they weren't bad at all. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Ron

I agree with SLOW that factory pads offer the best all around combination of performance, quiet operation and longevity. Some aftermarket pads are longer lasting but they trade off pad wear for disc wear, etc. Some are softer and reduce braking distances but wear unacceptably fast, etc. I've used aftermarket pads before and never been really happy using them. As far as I'm concerned, I'll pay more at the Ford parts counter than risk getting something with different tradeoffs.

Jeff
 
DO NOT buy the cheapo pads (20 dollar) from the Autozone/NAPA etc. stores. Lifetime warrenty yea but they do wear quickly and you will be replacing them (although it is free) in a year. Use the higher priced ( around 40 bucks) pads like Carbon Metallic by Perfomance Friction. I have had those on my Stang and Expedition for over 40K miles and they are holding up real well. THe cheap stuff AND the ones from Ford wear quickly and you will have more break dust to clean on your wheels. Ever see new Expeditions with rear wheels chrome and the fronts black? You know what I'm talking about then.

From experience and from ruining a rotor on my Expedition I will never use those cheap pads again.
 
rdefino said:
I was told by a mechanic that the stock rotors that came with 2001 mustang gt are "throw aways". They are not worth turning. Is this true?
my dealership threw away two sets before saying that they cannot keep replacing my rotors...

i have a bad whine from them...
 
brakes !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Throw away rotors!!!!! no-way ....thats a BS story, cut them, the shop will mic them and by law wont cut if there no good....as in to thin or warped bad..you already got all the info & that brake job should have bben done "yesterday" !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Ford rotors on new cars are JUNK that warp or wear out quickly! Thats why the mechanic said they are throw away. My 1988 5.0 went 188,000 miles before the first brake job and my 2000GT with 70,000 easy miles has been through 3 sets of rfront rotors. I wish the made the rotors with enough metal and high quality metal so they would last. Anyone know of any good rotors?