don't know what k-member to buy!

Hey there Mike like you mentioned

For a stock-ride and decent all around performance, a spring rate of 250# with a 12" length would work well. If it were me, I'd buy an extra set of 175#ers in a 14" length for weekends at the dragstrip. They're not expensive, and really easy to change on a coilover setup.

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I am buying a Kmember kit from you guys and wanted some advice on the Spring Rate,Struts and the Rear shocks. Firstly this is what i had in mind.

1-2005-79K / 79-93 Mustang Chrome Moly K Member Kit (With the Bumpsteer Kit & Caster Camber Plates)

2-79-93 Mustang QA1 Adjustable Strut - QA1-H2001 (Up Front)

3-79-04 Mustang Lakewood 50/50 Drag Shock - LK-40301 (Out Back)

I am running 400 RWHP from my 306 SBF with a Procharger in the engine bay. The car is a prety Much stock 5 Spd 1989 Mustang. I will be running slicks and this car is mostly Drag Race. Just want to drive it to the tracks (about 3 Miles each way). Can you advise me on this -Spring Rates up front/want to use stock springs in rear if thats ok and the Struts and shocks.

Thanks Matt

What about the new Steeda one featured in February's MM&FF, that looks like a very nice piece

K-member

The AJE k-member will fit 79-04 and mount any engine using the AJE engine mounts! It can be used with factory style springs and a-arms or a coilover kt. It comes with the a-arm mounting hardware, rack bushings and rack mounting hardware. It has 2.5" per side more header room than a factory k-member and only weighs 22 lbs.

im going with a UPR... ive seen enough people put cars on the bumper and slam them back into the track for me to know they are well made.. we dont have a big pot hole issue around here so im not worried about that

as for coil overs... i have QA1's

I don't think you went the wrong way. The best part will really be the wonders of the coil-over which not only makes spring choice a real option, but you can fine tune the ride hight easily. Most regular springs are set and will not let the car sit perfect unless you cut or heat, which alters the spring, while a coil over you can really fine tune, and I'll tell you that a little goes a long way when it comes to handling and driveability.

Since the coil overs are being discussed a little bit i fig i'd ask here. i'm wondering if a coil over set up can be done with 9in rims up front? I figured they would, but i've had a few people question me. Thaniks

I've got a AJE k-member with MM a-arms.. Nice fit, good quality k-member.

Don't even consider and AJE, i'm not going into details, but their reasons for mine being a POS is that it's an older one.
So what, you screwed it up, give me another.
Got it from jegs a few years back. These projects don't happen overnight so i'm past the year you can return stuff.
They did make an effort to replace the pedestals to cure the problem, too bad it took 2 weeks to do what a chassis shop could do in 30 minutes. Oh, and their fix created other problems, includind issues with the new parts they sent me themselves.


I've seen problems with the rest of them too.
IMO, get the griggs or MM or don't bother.
Had my project not required a k member, i would not use an aftermarket one at all.

92s-trim said:

2000xp8, may i ask what project you had that required a aftermarket k-member? not being a jerk, but it looks like a stock style setup,nothing wild like twin turbo's or a big block.

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4.6 dohc SC out of an 03 cobra.
It's already in, now just wiring is left. The pics on my page are a good 3 years old.

92s-trim said:

2000xp8, may i ask what project you had that required a aftermarket k-member? not being a jerk, but it looks like a stock style setup,nothing wild like twin turbo's or a big block.

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who said a project needed to have a bbf or TT to require and aftermarket k member, my project required one cause im building a road race car