• Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

door lock actuator replacement?

  • Thread starter Thread starter jmd2914
  • Start date Start date Feb 23, 2009
J

jmd2914

Founding Member
Sep 6, 2002
937
0
0
Napa, California
Feb 23, 2009
#1
  • Feb 23, 2009
  • #1
mine died. i bought the replacement kit from LMR. is the replacement pretty much straight forward? or is there a write up i should read?

thanks guys

Joel
 

88mouse

New Member
Apr 18, 2007
630
0
0
Mooresville nc
Feb 23, 2009
#2
  • Feb 23, 2009
  • #2
Here is a nice wright up from Jrichker.

Mustang Door Lock Actuator Retrofit
 

bubba-dough

Active Member
Dec 28, 2004
1,044
2
38
Indiana
Feb 23, 2009
#3
  • Feb 23, 2009
  • #3
Yeah its straight foward using stock replacements (drill out a big rivet and remove a rod) ...however I went the Parts Express route and added keyless entry while I was at it, been installed for 4 years now. All of it cost less than the stock replacements and only took a few hours of my time to install. But like previously mentioned Jrichker has an awesome write-up for those unfimilair with Mustang wiring or wiring in general.
 
B

BYRDPE

Founding Member
Nov 4, 1998
1,556
0
37
Memphis,Tn.
Feb 23, 2009
#4
  • Feb 23, 2009
  • #4
bubba-dough said:
Yeah its straight foward using stock replacements (drill out a big rivet and remove a rod) ...however I went the Parts Express route and added keyless entry while I was at it, been installed for 4 years now. All of it cost less than the stock replacements and only took a few hours of my time to install. But like previously mentioned Jrichker has an awesome write-up for those unfimilair with Mustang wiring or wiring in general.
Click to expand...
Care to share the info on the keyless entry? How involved is the install?
Where did you get the kit to do this?
Thanks
 

glowstang93

20+ Year Stangneter
Feb 9, 2003
853
8
39
Illinois
Feb 23, 2009
#5
  • Feb 23, 2009
  • #5
Joe's retrofit is the best. Don't mess with the stock replacements.
 

millhouse

Founding Member
May 14, 2002
1,985
0
46
Simpsonville, SC
Feb 24, 2009
#6
  • Feb 24, 2009
  • #6
bubba-dough said:
Yeah its straight foward using stock replacements (drill out a big rivet and remove a rod) ...however I went the Parts Express route and added keyless entry while I was at it, been installed for 4 years now. All of it cost less than the stock replacements and only took a few hours of my time to install. But like previously mentioned Jrichker has an awesome write-up for those unfimilair with Mustang wiring or wiring in general.
Click to expand...

There is no need to drill the rivet out. You just have to slide the actuator off of the post and pull it out.
 

glowstang93

20+ Year Stangneter
Feb 9, 2003
853
8
39
Illinois
Feb 24, 2009
#7
  • Feb 24, 2009
  • #7
​
http://forums.stangnet.com/753946-door-lock-actuator-retrofit-bomb.html

Follow this link if you do the retrofit, I have some pics there, might help you.
 

bubba-dough

Active Member
Dec 28, 2004
1,044
2
38
Indiana
Feb 24, 2009
#8
  • Feb 24, 2009
  • #8
BYRDPE said:
Care to share the info on the keyless entry? How involved is the install? Where did you get the kit to do this? Thanks
Click to expand...
PM'd you.
 
J

jmd2914

Founding Member
Sep 6, 2002
937
0
0
Napa, California
Mar 3, 2009
#9
  • Mar 3, 2009
  • #9
soo i have the new actuators, they came in the mail today. so they pretty much just slide off the rivet and slide the new ones on and re attatch everything? or did i totally miss something
 

millhouse

Founding Member
May 14, 2002
1,985
0
46
Simpsonville, SC
Mar 3, 2009
#10
  • Mar 3, 2009
  • #10
jmd2914 said:
soo i have the new actuators, they came in the mail today. so they pretty much just slide off the rivet and slide the new ones on and re attatch everything? or did i totally miss something
Click to expand...

Nope, it's really that simple.

I would however recommend picking up a door panel puller tool....which resembles a forked screwdriver with a notch in the end. It will make pulling the Christmas tree plugs that much easier without ripping the old cardboard on the door panel.
 
J

jmd2914

Founding Member
Sep 6, 2002
937
0
0
Napa, California
Mar 5, 2009
#11
  • Mar 5, 2009
  • #11
i took my door apart today and pulled the old actuator out, and from what i see there doesnt look like a way to slip the new actuator into the old bracket. from what it looks like i have to drill out the old bracket and use the new one. unless im missing something
 

millhouse

Founding Member
May 14, 2002
1,985
0
46
Simpsonville, SC
Mar 5, 2009
#12
  • Mar 5, 2009
  • #12
Double post.
 

millhouse

Founding Member
May 14, 2002
1,985
0
46
Simpsonville, SC
Mar 5, 2009
#13
  • Mar 5, 2009
  • #13
You put the new one in the same way you took the old one out.
 
J

jmd2914

Founding Member
Sep 6, 2002
937
0
0
Napa, California
Mar 6, 2009
#14
  • Mar 6, 2009
  • #14
that was my plan but when i got into the door i noticed that the actuator had fallen out of the bracket and was just hanging by the rod that it connects to the door lock with. the new actuators came with a bunch of different attatchments ( im assuming theyre different in some cars) i found the one that looks like my stock one so im good there, however i dont get which order i put everything back. being that i have to reconnect the plug, get the actuator in the bracket and attatch the actuator to the door lock. any ideas?
 

LiquidGT

Member
Oct 8, 2007
368
0
16
Near STL hell
Mar 6, 2009
#15
  • Mar 6, 2009
  • #15
jmd2914 said:
that was my plan but when i got into the door i noticed that the actuator had fallen out of the bracket and was just hanging by the rod that it connects to the door lock with. the new actuators came with a bunch of different attatchments ( im assuming theyre different in some cars) i found the one that looks like my stock one so im good there, however i dont get which order i put everything back. being that i have to reconnect the plug, get the actuator in the bracket and attatch the actuator to the door lock. any ideas?
Click to expand...

I had one of those actuators, it rusted from the inside in three months during the summertime. I just did the Jrichker method and I couldnt be happier.

-Anyway... put the bushings onto the mount that's inside of the door;
-Attach the rod on the door lock mechanics;
-slide the pins on the actuator into the bushings one side at a time;
-plug it in.
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
In Remembrance. Thank you for your contributions
Mar 10, 2000
27,512
2,811
234
Dublin GA
Mar 7, 2009
#16
  • Mar 7, 2009
  • #16
Here's the real deal...

Follow this link to fix your door lock actuator problems Mustang Door Lock Actuator Retrofit

Stuck with door lock actuators that don't work and don't want to pay the $50+ for a new one? Tried the junkyard ones and found that they last six months and freeze up?

A new actuator for less than $5. Fix one side for $18, do both sides for only $25. I don't sell parts, I don’t make any money off of the upgrade, I just tell you how to do it cheaply and easily.

Here’s a picture of the new actuator installed:

 
J

jmd2914

Founding Member
Sep 6, 2002
937
0
0
Napa, California
Mar 10, 2009
#17
  • Mar 10, 2009
  • #17
still no luck....i attatched the hardware to the door lock and the bushings into the bracket, i cant slip the actuator into the bracket without detaching it from the door lock.
 

millhouse

Founding Member
May 14, 2002
1,985
0
46
Simpsonville, SC
Mar 10, 2009
#18
  • Mar 10, 2009
  • #18
jmd2914 said:
still no luck....i attatched the hardware to the door lock and the bushings into the bracket, i cant slip the actuator into the bracket without detaching it from the door lock.
Click to expand...

Man, I wish I could remember how I did it. Once you figure it out, you'll kick yourself! Did you try to attach the bushings to the actuator and then slide everything in?
 

glowstang93

20+ Year Stangneter
Feb 9, 2003
853
8
39
Illinois
Mar 10, 2009
#19
  • Mar 10, 2009
  • #19
The first thing you want to do is to get the rod on the actuator up and into the unlock/lock hole. The easiest way to find it is to take one hand and manually lock and unlock the door with the knob, then with the other hand feel for what is moving inside the door. The part you are looking for will have a hole and it will move as you move the lock/unlock knob up and down. Plug the wiring into the actator. You have to get the actuator rod end to go into this hole. You may have to rotate or twist the actuator from side to side, but it will go into the hole and then allow the actuator to be vertical( up and down) from where it the rod connects into the hole.

Rotate the bracket so that the slots are facing upwards. It is easier to push down than to push up on the actuator when you slide it back into the bracket.
Slide the bushings onto the arms of the actuator. Now take the whole assembly, while the actuator rod is in the lock/unlock hole and the wiring it plugged in..... start to slide it into the bracket. It is a tight fit and needs to be. You can try to push the whole thing down at once or one side than the other one. Be careful, bracket is plastic and with too much pressure could break. Just keep wiggling it down into the slots. Make sure it is all the way seated and working before you close up panel.

If you can't get it to slide into the bracket. You can always drill out the rivit, then have a local body shop rivit it back on for a few dollars. Just make sure you have the rod in the hole and everything is ready so when they rivit it that will be the last step. Here are some pictures of the retrofit, but you should be able to see what you have and see where the rod goes in still.







 
J

jmd2914

Founding Member
Sep 6, 2002
937
0
0
Napa, California
Mar 11, 2009
#20
  • Mar 11, 2009
  • #20
went out and played around with it, got the drivers side to work hopfully i can get the passenger side done tomorrow. the lock seemed a bit sticky but seemed to work better the more i played with the lock/unlock button
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

N
Power door lock motor Question
  • NYFox
  • Mar 15, 2026
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
3
Views
208
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Mar 17, 2026
NYFox
N
Electrical Are there any aftermarket door lock actuators that actually work?
  • 89notchDude
  • Nov 24, 2024
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
11
Views
3K
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Dec 2, 2024
FastDriver
T
1990 Convertible door squeaking
  • Tom77
  • Jan 23, 2026
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
7
Views
258
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Jan 24, 2026
Tom77
T
S
01 GT DRIVERS SIDE DOOR LOCK CYLINDER LINKAGE
  • Scwhitten
  • May 13, 2026
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
Replies
3
Views
99
SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech Friday at 8:15 PM
melo.timo
M
J
89 mustang alarm install to lock and unlock
  • jk66
  • Apr 9, 2026
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
4
Views
130
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Apr 10, 2026
jk66
J
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?