Door Lock Actuator Retrofit is the Bomb

[glowstang93]

Just completed replacing the stock-type actuator in my passenger side with the one that JRICHKER has in his write-up. Had a few glitches but all went well and it works Really didn't have any doubts that it would work. Cool part is it was only $20 for the two actuators including shipping. Close to $30 or $35 to do both sides, but if I have to replace them again it will mostly just be the actuator, not all of the hardware and extention.

I did run into one problem with the plastic shield that goes around the inside of the latch assembly. Had to cut/grind it out so the new actuator extension had room to extend when unlocking the door.

Got done and had to open door panel back up to find a fender washer I had left inside

Thanks so much Joe and JT for your help!!!!!!!

Here are a few pics to help show how mine turned out.

 

[jrichker]

I am glad that it worked well for you.

The plastic actuator mounts may require a couple of fender washers between the actuator and door. This should eliminate the need to modify anything else. See page 6 of the actuator installation tech note.

 

[glowstang93]

Yea, I used 2 1/4 fender washers between the bracket and the door.

I did have some sort of plastic covering around the latch that I don't see in your pic, maybe it was something they added in 93 or somewhere in there. With a little bit of dremel and some nibbling, clearance issues were obsolete.

I never would have done this retrofit if your write-up wasn't as good as it was. I salute you Joe

 

[HISSIN50]

I never would have done this retrofit if your write-up wasn't as good as it was. I salute you Joe

Agreed.

 

[glowstang93]

Ok, its been 4 months since I did the retrofit on the passenger side door. It started every so often not wanting to work, now its pretty much not wanting to go up or down at all. Both switches still work the drivers side, so it doesn't appear to be the switches. Guess I'm going to have to open it back up and see what I got.

Any ideas on what could have caused it to stop working already?

Or anyone else had any problems with these?

Thanks in advance

 

[HISSIN50]

Anthony, can you hear if the problematic side's actuator is making noise?

If it makes noise but doesnt move the linkage properly, check your mechanical linkage between the actuator and body linkage.

If there's no noise, check for power ground across the two wires (at the actuator). If you have it, open and close the door and try again. Repeat (testing to see if a wire broke in the articulated section in the door jam).
If you consistently have power, I'd consider that you might have a bad actuator. I'd disconnect its wiring from the body harness and bench test if a few times. Then see where you're at.

MHO.
Good luck bud.

 

[1990Coupe]

Im glad to see this post - i have a door lock that has died on mine and have always wanted to put jrichker's writeup to good use!!

 

[glowstang93]

Thanks JT for the ideas.

Thanks 1990, I hope it helps you in doing yours, Its not that bad at all to do.

Well, I opened up the door and found that when I jiggled the electical connections it worked. I believe it was probably the scotch blocks not making good contact. The factory wiring is bigger than the actuators wires. So, the tap wouldn't break through the actuator wire as deep as the bigger factory wires. I decided to go ahead and scrape off the coating from the factory wires and solder the two directly together. This should take care of any connection problems.

While I have the door panel off I am working on making some metal reinforcements to help the door panel clips. Some have pulled through the panel board. I'll post some pictures of them later when I see how it works.

 

[glowstang93]

I used metal strapping for the reinforcement, then hot glue to hold it while the liquid nails hardened and cured. It sure can't hurt anything, hopefully will keep the panel tight to the door. I use a door panel tool, but still can't seem to get under all the clips before they pull out.

View attachment 295193

 

[BYRDPE]

Just completed replacing the stock-type actuator in my passenger side with the one that JRICHKER has in his write-up. Had a few glitches but all went well and it works Really didn't have any doubts that it would work. Cool part is it was only $20 for the two actuators including shipping. Close to $30 or $35 to do both sides, but if I have to replace them again it will mostly just be the actuator, not all of the hardware and extention.

I did run into one problem with the plastic shield that goes around the inside of the latch assembly. Had to cut/grind it out so the new actuator extension had room to extend when unlocking the door.

Got done and had to open door panel back up to find a fender washer I had left inside

Thanks so much Joe and JT for your help!!!!!!!

Here are a few pics to help show how mine turned out.

Where did you get them for this price?
Thanks

 

[glowstang93]

The same place that Jrichker has on his link.... Parts Express online. Here is the link to what you want to order . Order both so you can save on the shipping later.

The other parts I just picked up from local hardware store.

Parts Express:High Power Door Lock Actuator 2 Wire

 

[BYRDPE]

The same place that Jrichker has on his link.... Parts Express online. Here is the link to what you want to order . Order both so you can save on the shipping later.

The other parts I just picked up from local hardware store.

Parts Express:High Power Door Lock Actuator 2 Wire

...thanks

 

[Lawbreaker5.0]

I used metal strapping for the reinforcement, then hot glue to hold it while the liquid nails hardened and cured. It sure can't hurt anything, hopefully will keep the panel tight to the door. I use a door panel tool, but still can't seem to get under all the clips before they pull out.

i really need to do this to my door panels bc the cardboard is breaking on mine as well.

What are liquid nails? is the metal straping just thin sheet metal with holes drilled in it?

 

[glowstang93]

The metal strapping is general run of the mill plumbers metal strapping. You should be able to find it at wally world in the plumbing section or any hardware store. The Liquid Nails comes in a caulk tube or might be able to find it in a small squeeze tube. Liquis Nails, projects, construction adhesive is what the side of the tube has on it. Can be bought at the same places as the metal strapping. If you go to Liquid Nails® Home Page you can see what the tube looks like, its the one on the left with the red top.

I used the metal strapping since it was thin and already had a hole. You just have to snip away enough from the edge so that the clip will slide inside like it was the door panel.

The liquid nails held the panel on tight, but it doesn't bond quickly, so I used hot glue to keep the strap tight to the panel. Then once the liquid nails was dry, it was what was really holding onto the panel. There may be better adhesives that would set up faster, its just what I had handy and it worked, lol.

If you have any more questions, please ask, would be glad to help

 

[Lawbreaker5.0]

thanks

 

[old_blue]

I did this years ago on my 88 hatch. I sold it and to this day I believe they are still working. again beats the price of buying new and these actuators actually work better and feel better when they lock. I liked it so much I pm'd jrichter the hyper link to put in his sig so others could find it easier. I think I would be lost without jrichter on this site.

 

[glowstang93]

Today I did the drivers side actuator with the aftermarkets. The factory one was still working, but I wanted to go ahead and swap it out while I had the door panels off replacing the door handles. I did this one with the drill a hole method to mount the actuator in the cradle. I followed the directions, but with the plastic mount I was almost 1/2" too far to the right with the hole lining up with the mount. Luckily the rubber plug covered my larger hole. All is well and she is put away for the winter all covered up now.

 

[jrichker]

You gotta love something that works good and is cheap...

The original actuators that I installed in 2002 in the 89 GT have been transferred to my 89 LX that I bought in 2008. They still work good, still have that satisfying "thunk" sound when you press the switch.

 

[old_blue]

wow, this post is old. I did my coupe this year too. Works great still.

 

[HISSIN50]

Anthony, I had the same issue with the plastic mount.

I'm sure I remember Joe saying explicitly that his car had metal mounts (so we both knew we were kinda wingin' it). I almost never post about the plastic mount changing things because I wasn't sure which cars had plastic (I thought maybe they used plastic on 'verts since it's more likely to get wet in there). I'm sorry that I didn't mention it bud.

I was once going to measure things and send the info to Joe, but the hole I made was a skosh off and I didn't wanna provide unverified and unproven info that wasn't right on the dot (I'd have been extrapolating a guess as to where I should have drilled). I also wasn't sure if vert doors have different component orientation than hardtops.