Door Lock Actuators

[HISSIN50]

So it sounds like a Made a bad investment.

I wouldnt sweat it - the new actuators might work for a long time for you and they are easy to install. And if the new ones shouldn't last as long as you hope, rather than spending more money on similar ones again, you have the JR alternative to try.

 

[Joey5.0]

I wouldnt sweat it - the new actuators might work for a long time for you and they are easy to install. And if the new ones shouldn't last as long as you hope, rather than spending more money on similar ones again, you have the JR alternative to try.

Very True. What actually cause These to go out?

And Other Question, How in the hell do i get my "Map Light" Light to work?

 

[BLADDER92FOX]

I got lucky and got 2 original Ford actuators for 30 bucks shipped on ebay,both work like a charm so far after 2 months. Try ebay.

 

[Fett]

The 50resto actuators suck, they are generic PsOS. My passengers side went out yesturday after having it for 8 months....but only using it daily for four months. The drivers side one makes a horrible noise.

I went ahead and played with the broken one to see what failed internally and it was pretty obvious that they are reman actuators. The screw pin was beat up, and didn't move up and down smoothly.

I went to Circuit City and bought one of their keyless entry add-on actuators and they seem to work much better. I wired it in but left my rivet gun at work...so I won't get it installed until tomorrow. Seems very straight forward for install. I will post more tomorrow.

 

[Curse]

Seems very straight forward for install. I will post more tomorrow.

Please do, I am very interested.

 

[Joey5.0]

Please do, I am very interested.

+2

 

[Fett]

Sorry...nothing to report. I went to CC and bought one for $29, took it home and got it out of the box....only to see that it is the same style shown above. While it is a great actuator.....it costs a lot more.

It comes with it's own 8" rod and a coupler that you attach to the lock rod. However, the angle in the stock lock rod is so off that you really can't set it up how the instructions show. So I tried to use the link from my old actuator to make it work...only to find out that you need to change position of the actuator. So in short, I am going to follow the instructions provided earlier in this thread....I am just spending more money to do it.

The only thing I would see differently would be that you can use the stock hole to mount the actuator. It comes with a long bracket you use to screw through the sheet metal and attach the actuator. But you can bend it in the shape of a U, just like the stock actuator holder, and rivet it to the door like the OEM.

Either way I ended up following the instructions...which I recommend doing. I was trying to overthink the whole thing and ended up spending more money than I needed to.

 

[HISSIN50]

Very True. What actually cause These to go out?

And Other Question, How in the hell do i get my "Map Light" Light to work?

Sorry, I missed this post. I have the feeling the actual components in the unit must do it - but I never used the LRS units.

Not sure on the Map light - does yours work like a vert's map light (the lights are in the mirror)?

 

[johnf440]

Re-installing the large actuators and spending $50-$100 is simply not needed. I just disconnect the existing acutators from the latch and pull the plug. Then, you can either break the actuator bracket and take it out or even leave it in there. Get a couple door lock actuators from a car alarm shop (retrofit acutators for cars that didn't come with them factory) and bolt them to the inner door webbing and clamp them to the lock/unlock rod. Wire the harness to the actuator wires and call it a day..

It takes seriously like 15 min a side and set me back $4 a side...